Looking for a company that can make deck wood look new again

Omegaelite

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Have spent a small fortune on upgrades for our Targa 47 and as yet undecided if were going to keep it a few more seasons or upgrade.
Everything else is mint but The wood is really letting it down.
Our valetors deep cleaned it 4 months ago but its all just gone green and horrible again....

Does anybody know a company on the southcoast that provides some kind of deep clean and wood brightening service? maybe with some kind of protection that stops the green returning so quickly.....
 
Do it yourself. Treat it with Boracol and all the green will go away. Just needs treating once a year. If you then want to clean it further use the Wessex Chemicals two stage cleaner which came out top in the recent test in YM. Not a specialist job, just grafting but you could pay a valeting service to do it for you if you don't have the time or inclination.
 
Do it yourself. Treat it with Boracol and all the green will go away. Just needs treating once a year. If you then want to clean it further use the Wessex Chemicals two stage cleaner which came out top in the recent test in YM. Not a specialist job, just grafting but you could pay a valeting service to do it for you if you don't have the time or inclination.

I don't use Boracol, but the two part Wessex treatment, the only treatment recommended by Fleming. Simply magnificent. Follow the instructions and you will not be disappointed.

http://www.teakcleaner.co.uk/
 
Sounds like you need to change your valeting company.

A decent valeter will bring your blue hull back to new again with a cut and polish. My blue 01 Targa hull looked abysmal when I bought it but once polished it was back to looking like new and it stayed that way for years with just regular maintenance by people who new what they were doing.
Your teak deck should also look almost new with using Wessex two part, again any valeter worth his/her salt would know this, that's what you pay them for not just the labour element.

Your first task is to find a decent valeter!
 
My boat is 30 this year, it gets the Wessex treatment once a year with a six monthly patio magic top up. We regularly get great comments. We did do a mini sand / scrape three years age, just to remove any ridges, that improved life immeasurably.
 
As Jon says, if you have sufficient depth of teak, then you can sand the surface hunch will bring it up like new, then a regular 2 pack treatment, twice a year will keep it in great shape. Over the winter, there is a tendency for some of the externals to get s green tinge, teak, fender warps etc. Soon comes up clean though.
 
The two products serve different purposes. Wessex is a cleaner, Boracol (as recommended by Hallberg Rassy) prevents mould developing.

This is very true. Wessex cleans but also kills the roots of any mould and algea that might have grown into the teak. Further treatmenst with Boracol or Patio Magic should help prevent them from recurring.
 
+1 for Boracol

Its a biocide ( poison) that soaks in to the teak and keeps killing slime and algae for many months.

The teak does not have to be clean to apply.

Choose a dry day with no rain forecast usual pse, overalls, gloves and a face mask against splashes.

Use a paint kettle to decant a litre a s.5 inch natural fibre brush.

Paint on to the point of refusal ( when more wont soak in) and leave to dry a day or two then another coat.

After two or three weeks all the slime will die off and the teak will lighten in colour ( this is the algae dying off).

The good thing about boracol is it removed the need to clean the teak every couple of weeks. Cleaning the teak with a brush removed the soft wood from the teak leaving the hard wood with raised grains.

My teak is cleaned well at the start of the season and a couple of light cleans.

My teak is laminated ie a thin veneer of teak on marine ply, I want to preserve it for as long as I can. Cleaning will wear out the teak . Sanding a veneered teak deck is a no no.

My teak is a clean silver colour requiring little work.

I also use Boracol on any exterior wood at home, before painting new doors, gates etc.

On teak tables and seats and the wife's soft top of her Fiat 500.
 
sorry for thread drift but some guys on here can help me please ,so i have taken all my teak off and sanded so now am i right i stick it down with silkaflex 298 then caulk with silkaflex then sand again, then do i use two part cleaner then semco or just semo after sanding
 
You don't have to use Semco at all if you don't want to. The big benefit of teak is that it does not require protection - just keep it clean as suggested in earlier posts.
 
You don't have to use Semco at all if you don't want to. The big benefit of teak is that it does not require protection - just keep it clean as suggested in earlier posts.
ok take that on board but do i need two part cleaner if i have re sanded
 
Semco does claim to 'lock in' the golden colour, so prevents the teak silvering after a few months. Some prefer the weathered look, I prefer the fresh golden look. On an older 'grainy' deck Semco will also seal the surface crevices, reducing the likelihood of frost breaking the surface up, which is a primary reason why I prefer to use Semco.
 
You don't have to use Semco at all if you don't want to. The big benefit of teak is that it does not require protection - just keep it clean as suggested in earlier posts.

What year is your boat?

Teak will get green slimy, this is algae living on and off your teak.

All woods including teak will get broken down and digested by algae and bacteria eventually.

Some decks are solid teak and will take a sanding without too much damage.

Boracol is a biocide which kills Algae and bacteria and soaks into the wood giving long term protection (say 6 months).

A veneer of teak as probably the Fairline 47 is not very thick say 2 or 3 mm I would not sand, what would a sanding remove say 0.5 of a mm?.
 
Semco does claim to 'lock in' the golden colour, so prevents the teak silvering after a few months. Some prefer the weathered look, I prefer the fresh golden look. On an older 'grainy' deck Semco will also seal the surface crevices, reducing the likelihood of frost breaking the surface up, which is a primary reason why I prefer to use Semco.

I used Semco on my teak flybridge and cockpit tables this year, and it doesn't seem to seal them at all as far as I can tell. They were just as susceptible to wine and grease stains as untreated teak, and still had dark circles where condensation had run down the water glasses. I agree it does give the teak a more yellow colour, but I can't comment on how long that lasts as we decided to oil the tables.
 
I used Semco on my teak flybridge and cockpit tables this year, and it doesn't seem to seal them at all as far as I can tell. They were just as susceptible to wine and grease stains as untreated teak, and still had dark circles where condensation had run down the water glasses. I agree it does give the teak a more yellow colour, but I can't comment on how long that lasts as we decided to oil the tables.
Since I treated with Semco the rainwater simply sits on the surface, rather than tending to soak in, and there is a clear difference in appearance between neighbouring treated and un-treated areas. My teak is quite grainy but at 25 years old it now looks close to new.
 
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