Looking for a 12lpm (3gpm) constant duty, seawater pump @ 24V

[vas]

hello all,

don't think I can add more to the title tbh.
Seems that the only option I can get here is 24lpm big bugger 1/2HP motor and bronze pump for 160euro+VAT.
Don't want flimsy plastic diaphragm ones (wont work for 3-4h straight! usually say max 20mins if so) and I don't think I want an impeller one, so bronze it has to be.
Basically I just want a pump similar to the aircon ones but not 220V, just 24V.

Any ideas?

cheers

V.

 

[kashurst]

it says its only suitable for fresh water or ethylene glycol mix, but I suspect for typical leisure boat use it could well last for years if you flush at the end of the season. If I find anything else I will post.

http://www.spxflow.com/en/johnson-pump-marine/pd-marine-circulation-pumps-c090/

alternatively 220v ac aircon type pump plus an inverter (don't like that much)

PS whats it for?

 

[Anders_P42]

It says in manual not to be used for sea water.

http://www.spxflow.com/en/assets/pdf/IB-303_CO90_R07.pdf

 

[Anders_P42]

This one suitable for sea water

http://www.spxflow.com/en/johnson-pump-marine/pd-marine-DC-driven-flexible-impeller-pumps/

 

[vas]

PS whats it for?

thanks for the suggestion, but I'll probably skip that!

its for the oil cooler of the stabiliser fins + presumably SOME of that seawater goes into cooling the two shafts of the fins (and that's I believe the reason the original pump died in the first place, but not going to elaborate on that here...)

This one suitable for sea water

http://www.spxflow.com/en/johnson-pump-marine/pd-marine-DC-driven-flexible-impeller-pumps/

thanks but it's MASSIVE water flow which I don't need
EDIT on second look, the F3B-19 24V could do it, not sure as it's nitrile impeller...

Plus all these guys give the flows on certain heads, which I again don't have and don't need.

Looks like it's going to be tricky finding one

cheers

V.

 

[superheat6k]

This one in 12v has run for several days when my tank ran dry - need to find a more local supplier, but this is the model I would suggest.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-SEAFLO...683890?hash=item2834922172:g:Z5gAAOSw-K9ZHRcy

 

[vas]

This one in 12v has run for several days when my tank ran dry - need to find a more local supplier, but this is the model I would suggest.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-SEAFLO...683890?hash=item2834922172:g:Z5gAAOSw-K9ZHRcy

Trevor,

not too keen on having BELOW W/L a plastic thing dealing with the cooling.
I know, I could move the pump above w/l and still have it with longer and slightly complex routes, but still I'd prefer a robust safer pump for the task.

cheers

V.

 

[jfm]

I have a hydraulic motor, impeller type pump below w'line but James has 24v. He is on silver E now so I'll text him and ask him to look, and post answer.

 

[vas]

reviving the thread as at some point I really need to have some cooling on the finstab oil, still testing though so no problems as yet!

Now the only real contestants are nitrile impeller pumps:

http://www.spxflow.com/en/johnson-pu...mpeller-pumps/

there's a bigger one F3B-19 in three different guises, would probably go for the bronze impeller housing just in case.

and there's a smaller F2P10-19 which has a thermoplastic casing on the again nitrile impeller.

Is it acceptable to have such a thing at the e/r below w/l (again I could lift it up a bit to being above but it would be messy and I'd have to run longer pipes to and from it.

There's also AMT https://amtpumps.com/site/product/bronze-marine-pumps/
but theirs are having bigger outputs.

Along the same lines, the oil cooler is a a 1/2 inch in out, so need some flow through it, but the piping diagram from Vosper shows that the heated seawater then goes to the two stab assemblies to cool the shaft. There it has a tiny nipple thing that I can get a 16mm (or was it 19mm) pipe! For the life of me I cannot imagine how a 10-20lpm pump wont have a hard time feeding two tiny nipples and not up the pressure which will cause premature pump failure.
Was thinking of having a tee after the cooler and a strangling seacock leading to an overboard skinfitting so that I can take only what's needed on the stabs and throw the rest overboard, but it's again going to be a hit or miss and there's no easy way to know that nipples do something before boat is on the hard again.

so to sum up, nitrile impeller on a thermoplastic casing OK, or go up a size and go bronze casing? Remember constant duty pumps we're talking about and minimal head (less than 0.5m)

cheers

V.

 

[vas]

I have a hydraulic motor, impeller type pump below w'line but James has 24v. He is on silver E now so I'll text him and ask him to look, and post answer.

after realising that a smallish 3/8 nitrile impeller pump does need .3kW to run and I'd need a big bugger 24V motor and possibly "waste" 10+A while it's working, I changed my mind

John, I can get a smallish hydraulic motor, a shaft coupling and a 3/8 port pump for 330euro.
This way I don't care how the oil is moving about (engine or gen+inverter+5.5kW 3p motor) and I'll just "waste" some of the hydraulic energy in proportion to the revs/load. Looks too good to be true!

Am I missing something?

For next season I'll get a pump for the port engine as well so wont need the geny all the time.

cheers

V.