Lofrans windlass broken?

[banflu1]

Hi,
My ‘new to me’ boat had a malfunctioning windlass (Lofrans Airon 500w).
somtimes it wouldn’t work and other times it would work very slowly.

I removed the motor and it was a pile of rust; I took it to a repair shop to see if it can be salvaged.
In the meantime, with the motor removed, I tried to turn the windlass from the top using the supplied (unlocking) handle.
It is hard but it can be turned round and is very notchy.
Is this normal? I think that since it is a worm drive it should not be able to turn at all.

I don’t want to spend money on a new motor only to find out later that the gearbox is broken.

 

[Neeves]

I don't know the windlass but.......

I assume you have the windlass manual, if not try a Google search. The manual will tell you that the windlass should be regularly serviced, commonly annually. Most windlass are seldom serviced - and it is not entirely surprising they 'fail'. Common faults with windlass, that were operating and then do not operate, is the cable connections, motor, the shaft or the gear box. It sounds as if the electrics are fine -and the motor works (even if rusting) The shaft should be cleaned and greased, the gear box should be lubricated. Take the windlass apart and check the shaft and gearbox. It should be simple to take the windlass apart, even if you do not have the manual.

Its is actually quite difficult to break a windlass - they are commonly well, or over, engineered and despite much abuse last for a very long time. Motors do rust - you are not alone!

You may find that how to disassemble is obvious but that the windlass is held together with stainless bolts or studs and that these have corroded solid to an aluminium casting. You might then need to establish a new thread on how to loosen corroded stainless from aluminium. But do not despair the forum will offer solutions.

The case for the motor is often mild steel and the windlass is in an environment to encourage corrosion. If you find the fault causing the windlass to be slow (and possible seized, or close to) and remedy the issue and decide to buy a new motor - then ensure the motor is not being constantly sprayed with salt water when you retrieve the chain. Commonly you can swing the motor away from the fall of the chain and/or you could add a baffle. You can also coat the, new, motor casing with that stuff people use to underseal their car from the UKs salty roads (winter salt - in my day Zeibart?).

If you meet unscaleable walls and decide to buy new - use Duralac or something similar when you instal.

Good Luck,

Jonathan

 

[ghostlymoron]

I don't know the windlass but.......

I assume you have the windlass manual, if not try a Google search. The manual will tell you that the windlass should be regularly serviced, commonly annually. Most windlass are seldom serviced - and it is not entirely surprising they 'fail'. Common faults with windlass, that were operating and then do not operate, is the cable connections, motor, the shaft or the gear box. It sounds as if the electrics are fine -and the motor works (even if rusting) The shaft should be cleaned and greased, the gear box should be lubricated. Take the windlass apart and check the shaft and gearbox. It should be simple to take the windlass apart, even if you do not have the manual.

Its is actually quite difficult to break a windlass - they are commonly well, or over, engineered and despite much abuse last for a very long time. Motors do rust - you are not alone!

You may find that how to disassemble is obvious but that the windlass is held together with stainless bolts or studs and that these have corroded solid to an aluminium casting. You might then need to establish a new thread on how to loosen corroded stainless from aluminium. But do not despair the forum will offer solutions.

The case for the motor is often mild steel and the windlass is in an environment to encourage corrosion. If you find the fault causing the windlass to be slow (and possible seized, or close to) and remedy the issue and decide to buy a new motor - then ensure the motor is not being constantly sprayed with salt water when you retrieve the chain. Commonly you can swing the motor away from the fall of the chain and/or you could add a baffle. You can also coat the, new, motor casing with that stuff people use to underseal their car from the UKs salty roads (winter salt - in my day Zeibart?).

If you meet unscaleable walls and decide to buy new - use Duralac or something similar when you instal.

Good Luck,

Jonathan

"It should be simple to take the windlass apart, even if you do not have the manual."
I have restored several Lofrans manual windlasses and found them anything but simple - having had to resort to a sledge hammer at times to extract the main shaft.
The main problem is usually lack of maintenance and dissimilar metals used in construction.

 

[Neeves]

"It should be simple to take the windlass apart, even if you do not have the manual."
I have restored several Lofrans manual windlasses and found them anything but simple - having had to resort to a sledge hammer at times to extract the main shaft.
The main problem is usually lack of maintenance and dissimilar metals used in construction.

I've never had to attend the removal of a Lofrans but have helped with removal of windlass from other manufacturers. I take an angle grinder with me now as seized stainless bolts are the primary issue. The OP mentioned that the windlass 'worked' if slowly - so Im assuming the shaft is turning (how else can it work) and if so should be removable - but it maybe sufficiently stiff that a sledge hammer might be useful

Your final sentence is the key. They are poorly fitted (with little appreciation to make them accessible to service). They are often incorrectly fitted, chain fall actually impact part of the device, so resulting in both abrasion and corrosion, and installers have never heard of Duralac.

Jonathan

 

[dankilb]

Our old Lofrans (Tigres) had seized from the outside in (dissimilar metals and lack of maintenance - exactly as per @ghostlymoron ). It's less likely to be the gearbox itself that's seized. Our motor was also rusted to destruction, so I've since taken that as a sign of a Lofrans approaching end-of-life! I'd start stripping it down, at home, and see what you end up with. Nothing to lose, etc.

 

[ghostlymoron]

Our old Lofrans (Tigres) had seized from the outside in (dissimilar metals and lack of maintenance - exactly as per @ghostlymoron ). It's less likely to be the gearbox itself that's seized. Our motor was also rusted to destruction, so I've since taken that as a sign of a Lofrans approaching end-of-life! I'd start stripping it down, at home, and see what you end up with. Nothing to lose, etc.

If it's the motor, you should seek out someone who does rewinds. They'll know what the resistance should be and, if necessary, rewind it quite cheaply.

 

[dankilb]

If it's the motor, you should seek out someone who does rewinds. They'll know what the resistance should be and, if necessary, rewind it quite cheaply.

We replaced the whole unit in the end. Some of the corrosion was so far into the case/casting that it was only a matter of time before it wouldn't hold oil anymore. That, in addition to it needed a motor rewind and general rebuild... Didn't even bother breaking it open in the end (that wouldn't have been easy!) and sold it for beer tokens to a chap who was good with aluminium welding and wanted a project for his boat! It was likely 30 years old, so hadn't done too bad.

If the OPs unit doesn't look like scrap, it'll probably be re-build-able.

 

[jwilson]

My Lofrans Airon windlass drum/gypsy - even when new - could not easily be wound round by the handle. You can turn it but slowly with a lot of effort and lumpiness - 'notchy' as you say. This appears to be normal. It has however always worked perfectly (touching wood) under power.

The only problems I have had have been seizing and corrosion between S/S spindle and aluminium warping drum. I did eventually get a new drum from Barrus as the original alloy drum was almost crumbling. I assume you have found the Airon manual online.