Lofrans Royale windlass

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bromleybysea

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I fitted one of these about 10 years ago. It has now become so stiff that it is unusable, almost seized solid. I've always maintained it according to the manufacturer's instructions, which only consists of disassembling the gypsy and spraying with WD40. There appears to be no means of maintaining the inner workings or of gaining easy access. From previous threads this seems to be a problem with the design of the windlass and is pretty terminal except for those with advanced engineering skills and specialist equipment. Properly maintained something like this should last longer than ten years and given that proper maintenance is impossible, it's not fit for purpose. Don't buy one.
 
I inherited a seized one on my boat. It comes apart relatively easily if the screws are not seized like mine were. You can see how it goes together from the exploded diagrams on the Web. Mime just needed a good clean up and regrease. I did not find it difficult.
 
I've refurbished several of these. The main difficulty is undoing the six Allen key bolts due to the 'welding' effect between alloy and stainless. Be prepared for a battle. I also had a struggle driving the shaft out on one of them and had to resort to a sharp clout with a sledgehammer.
Don't be tempted to fill the body with oil the bolt that looks like a filler point is a locating pin for the upper bevel gear.
Maintenance is just a strip down, clean, grease and reassemble. This should be done at least annually to avoid "welding" problems. If done often, it's not arduous. Grease the Allen bolts well to prevent sticking in future.
Spares are now available from A R Preachment and you can download a parts list/diagram from Lofrans's website.
 
Many of these comments are valid for most windlass.

It is common for them to be assembled with stainless bolts in a cast alloy casing, the bolts seize. This is commonly the fault of the party that commissions the yacht, but maybe the boat builder. Why they do not isolate the bolts, Duralac or similar, is just another marine mystery. Though I have not see instruction to isolate same in any installation instructions. Using the windlass to pull the yacht forward or not protecting the windlass from snatch loads (use a snubber) can result in damage not to the shaft but the seals allowing water to enter the gearbox. Windlass are amazingly forgiving and are, usually, easy to service though access can be the nightmare. They will repay a little love and attention.

I ran a thread on how often windlass were serviced and few actually serviced their windlass at all (out of sight, out of mind).

Jonathan
 
If you haven't greased it for 10yrs, it's no surprise that it's stiff. The grease will be like cement by now. I've never had a new one so don't know what the service schedule says but anything mechanical benefit from a clean and lubricate once in a while. (I'm often surprised by the number of cyclists who squeek along with a bone dry and rusty chain). But I digress.
I have neither engineering skills or special equipment but don't find it difficult to maintain a windlass. As for not lasting more than 10 yrs : they certainly do I've stripped down a thirty year old example and found it perfectly serviceable after cleaning and greasing. The point with yours are that it HASNT been 'properly maintained', but it's never too late.
bromleybysea said:
I fitted one of these about 10 years ago. It has now become so stiff that it is unusable, almost seized solid. I've always maintained it according to the manufacturer's instructions, which only consists of disassembling the gypsy and spraying with WD40. There appears to be no means of maintaining the inner workings or of gaining easy access. From previous threads this seems to be a problem with the design of the windlass and is pretty terminal except for those with advanced engineering skills and specialist equipment. Properly maintained something like this should last longer than ten years and given that proper maintenance is impossible, it's not fit for purpose. Don't buy one.
Click to expand...
 
ghostlymoron said:
What conclusion did you reach about frequency of servicing?
Click to expand...

The common recommendation of the manufacturer seems to be 1 year. I really see no reason not to follow the instructions - though having taken a particular interest in my fetish I acknowledge that many are installed for easy installation NOT easy servicing. It must depend on how often the windlass is used - I would not go beyond 2 years.

The major aspect to correct is the absence of separation between the stainless bolts holding the windlass together and the inevitable alloy casting. I'd recommend anyone with a windlass to check that ASAP, and correct if necessary. If you do not correct - you may not get it apart. Most windlass can be serviced insitu - if the bolts corrode you may need to remove the whole thing and then disassemble (and it might be impossible to disassemble)

New windlass have a sight glass for the oil in the gear box and if you can check the oil easily and be confident you know what you are looking at (it usually means hanging upside down in the locker with a torch - so its not easy) then maybe extend servicing but I'd still recommend 2 years to check. Its not difficult - as long as you can access or have lots of time and patience. If the oil is good - well and good, leave alone.

The major issues are the bolts corroding and locking solid and the seals failing and the gearbox filling with seawater (and mud).

Always use a snubber - this will take the load off the windlass, you will not damage the seating nor the shaft - or very unlikely - but you might damage the seals. If your anchor is stuck, hard to retrieve - use a short strop to take the load of the windlass (this should be permenantly attached to a strong point and ready for instant use - or you will not bother). Use a snubber at anchor (it will take the load off the windlass and will be more comfortable on board)

I'd also recommend that if your motor casing is not yet corroding (you are lucky) that you spray it with some sort of anti-corrosive spray. The casings are mild steel and are constantly subject to salt water. Make sure the fall of the chain is away from the motor. I have seen one new installation (I look at yachts at boat shows) where the fall of the chain was onto the motor - I'd give it a short life. The motor can usually be swung through each of 90 degrees, easily. Check the installation guide. The alternative is to put some sort of guard over the motor - but then you will still rub the gal off your chain.

10 years without servicing is not unusual, but with the inevitable result, but they can last longer. They are forgiving (amazingly) but they might fail at a very inappropriate time. A decent 1000w windlass will cost around (I'm guessing) stg6/700 - they are not particularly cheap. Checking the bolts, once, checking the fall of the chain once and check the oil every 2 years - its not difficult.

Jonathan
 
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All sound advice, thanks. I'll have a go at getting it apart and if successful seeing if a good clean and regreesing would do the job. I did loose my ground tackle last year and I guess from comments above that our fruitless attempts at recovery might have caused damage. As regards maintenance, the original manual that comes with the winch which I still have only reccomends stripping the clutch assembly, it make no mention of taking the thing apart, or of the need for greasing the internal parts, which in any case is not particularly easy. Maybe I should have seen beyond this and done so but I assumed, perhaps naievely, that had the manufacturers intended the thing to be regularly taken apart and regressed etc., they would have said so.
 
All good advice but I must add that the Royale doesn't have a motor and isn't oil filled.
Neeves said:
The common recommendation of the manufacturer seems to be 1 year. I really see no reason not to follow the instructions - though having taken a particular interest in my fetish I acknowledge that many are installed for easy installation NOT easy servicing. It must depend on how often the windlass is used - I would not go beyond 2 years.

The major aspect to correct is the absence of separation between the stainless bolts holding the windlass together and the inevitable alloy casting. I'd recommend anyone with a windlass to check that ASAP, and correct if necessary. If you do not correct - you may not get it apart. Most windlass can be serviced insitu - if the bolts corrode you may need to remove the whole thing and then disassemble (and it might be impossible to disassemble)

New windlass have a sight glass for the oil in the gear box and if you can check the oil easily and be confident you know what you are looking at (it usually means hanging upside down in the locker with a torch - so its not easy) then maybe extend servicing but I'd still recommend 2 years to check. Its not difficult - as long as you can access or have lots of time and patience. If the oil is good - well and good, leave alone.

The major issues are the bolts corroding and locking solid and the seals failing and the gearbox filling with seawater (and mud).

Always use a snubber - this will take the load off the windlass, you will not damage the seating nor the shaft - or very unlikely - but you might damage the seals. If your anchor is stuck, hard to retrieve - use a short strop to take the load of the windlass (this should be permenantly attached to a strong point and ready for instant use - or you will not bother). Use a snubber at anchor (it will take the load off the windlass and will be more comfortable on board)

I'd also recommend that if your motor casing is not yet corroding (you are lucky) that you spray it with some sort of anti-corrosive spray. The casings are mild steel and are constantly subject to salt water. Make sure the fall of the chain is away from the motor. I have seen one new installation (I look at yachts at boat shows) where the fall of the chain was onto the motor - I'd give it a short life. The motor can usually be swung through each of 90 degrees, easily. Check the installation guide. The alternative is to put some sort of guard over the motor - but then you will still rub the gal off your chain.

10 years without servicing is not unusual, but with the inevitable result, but they can last longer. They are forgiving (amazingly) but they might fail at a very inappropriate time. A decent 1000w windlass will cost around (I'm guessing) stg6/700 - they are not particularly cheap. Checking the bolts, once, checking the fall of the chain once and check the oil every 2 years - its not difficult.

Jonathan
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I was generalising for windlass (the thread gave me opportunity to point out - it is generally easy DO IT!) - prompted by the lack of servicing (common occurrence) of a, any, windlass. It does not matter if it has a motor, is oil filled, or not - they need servicing.

Jonathan
 
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Neeves said:
I was generalising for windlass (the thread gave me opportunity to point out - it is generally easy DO IT!) - prompted by the lack of servicing (common occurrence) of a, any, windlass. It does not matter if it has a motor, is oil filled, or not - they need servicing.

Jonathan
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I agree with that, just being picky and fearing that some readers may fill their Royale with oil.
 
My last windlass was a Cayman sadly neglected by its previous owner and needed a complete strip down and the motor replacing, I had to drill out 3 stainless bolts and helicoil the holes. After that as said a little care and maintenance was all that was needed.
 
ghostlymoron said:
I agree with that, just being picky and fearing that some readers may fill their Royale with oil.
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Nothing wrong with being picky :) Confess it never occurred that someone might misinterpret.

I was involved in removing a windlass - we had to cut it out with an angle grinder - the stainless bolts and studs were completely seized and the gearbox was lubricated with seawater and mud. As I mentioned many windlass are installed without thought of servicing and accessing with a blow torch to free seized stainless is often impossible.

It says much for their robustness and simplicity they last for so long.

Jonathan

Jonathan
 
I think the design of the Royale is fine and very robust but it's let down by choice of materials. Alloy/stainless and the nylon bushes.
Situation is better now there's a reliable supplier for parts but a couple of years ago when ownership changed parts were unobtainable.
 
Lofrans Royal now unseized and serviced. Thanks to all for comments/advice/& sourcing bushes.
I have had this windlass 18 years, on 2 boats from new so perhaps due a service. A couple of points for others undertaking this job:-
My three legged puller had to have the claw ends ground down as there is only about a 5mm gap at the back of the large alloy hand lever wheel. It totally refused to budge untill I applied heat to the ring with a hot air gun.
I also used heat to re-fit the ring as it is a tight heavy push fit.
The reason for the seizure (as predicted) was corrosion of the alloy outer surface of the nylon bush housing making the bush tight on the shaft.
The gypsy end with the 6 scew socket screws required careful use of a lump hammer.
The alloy casing is a casting and I imagine it would be easy to damage it if trying to prise off the hand lever wheel using the gap between it and the casing.
There are a couple of large nylon spacer washers between the circlip at the wheel end and the wheel - these are not shown on the exploded diagram of parts from Lofrans. There is also a metal shim (spacer/thrust?) inside.
Remember to re-assemble with the 2 dog clutches in their correct positions as one is left handed drive and the other is right handed drive(do not ask me why I know this!).
Despite a little corrosion at each end of the bush housings (why did they not fit a 50p seal?) all the gears which are alloy and the case inside and out was perfect.
Peachment were very efficient and helpful and I got my parts the next day.
 
Following the advice in this thread I decided to have a go at sorting out the windlass. The end cover screws came out reasonably easily and I was able to remove the leaver wheel with the judicious use of a couple of wedges and a lump hammer. The internals were perfect- no crud and the grease was in good condition. As predicted, the problem was that the nylon bearings at either end had seized. I was able to get the one on the gypsy side apart and clean it up, but the other side- the lever side- the large bevel gear couldn't be removed because I couldn't release the bottom intermediate gear with the windlass still on the boat as the bolt is underneath. A job for the winter refit I think. Anyway, the lever-side bearing was less stiff and freed up with a bit of working and now the windlass is serviceable. My only problem is the large stainless washer that is left over and not shown on the exploded diagram- CO8 mentions it. Any idea where it goes?
 
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