Lofrans Kobra windlass installation problem

The main in-line fuse was already installed when I bought the boat and it's been there for quite some years. It is a big fuse. However, it's in perfect condition and housed in a purpose made unit. I have no reason to want to remove this. I have a 5amp fuse in the cable to the anchor control switch as per the diagram.
 
ashanta said:
The main in-line fuse was already installed when I bought the boat and it's been there for quite some years. It is a big fuse. However, it's in perfect condition and housed in a purpose made unit. I have no reason to want to remove this. I have a 5amp fuse in the cable to the anchor control switch as per the diagram.
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I understand now. Much easier to reset a trip switch though.
As I said in an earlier post, try and do something to protect the motor from water, as I really believe the vertical mounted motor is a bit of a design fault. A few other people on a thread some months ago said they had had water ingress in their motors, and had taken steps to remedy the situation. Had I known I would have done the same, forking out £325 after only 2 seasons is not recommended.
 
KREW2 said:
I understand now. Much easier to reset a trip switch though.
As I said in an earlier post, try and do something to protect the motor from water, as I really believe the vertical mounted motor is a bit of a design fault. A few other people on a thread some months ago said they had had water ingress in their motors, and had taken steps to remedy the situation. Had I known I would have done the same, forking out £325 after only 2 seasons is not recommended.
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Thanks for that. I do intend to use the circuit breaker as well. I am just not going to rip out the old in line fuse. What i need to do is establish if it's the 80amp CB that is the problem by isolating as advised. if it is that I will have to get 100amp. I did read a previous post that it was advisable to use the 80 amp with 1000w not the 100amp but it seems that was not good advise. I will find out tomorrow when I am back on the boat.
Thanks about advice regarding the water protection.
 
ashanta said:
... I did read a previous post that it was advisable to use the 80 amp with 1000w not the 100amp but it seems that was not good advise...
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As has been said before, the fuse is there to protect the cable, not to be matched in any way to the device. A 1000W motor will draw about 80A at 12V, much more when starting or under load. Assuming the fuse was correct for the cable, check its value and fit the next size up breaker.
 
I am pleased to say that I now have my windlass working. There were two cables which were joined to the main supply cables which then went to the M1 and M2 posts on the previously installed windlass (the one being replaced) These cables were, apparently sufficient for the previous owners. This mean't they had the main heavy cables with a main fuse and contactor in line and that worked for them. I have then gone and tried to install a new contactor and CB in the bow area using the cables present and the failing rssults.
I have removed the old fuse and contactor and replaced with my new contactor and CB and I have replaced the wiring to the windlass via the contactor with heavy duty cables.
Can I thank everyone who gave me advice and info. It was a great help.
 
I don't think the fuse will be the issue. That will blow or it won't.

Sounds like the relay/s might be shorting when it/they open. The relay/s have to work in two directions one for up and one for down, effectively changing the direction of current flow to the motor in the process. If there is some corrosion on the switch contacts within the relay/s there could be a brief period when the battery is effectively shorted - one contact is still made, when the second contact makes. Ideally the relay/s should be 'Early break - late make'. Any short no matter how brief will pop the circuit breaker.

Also circuit breakers that are popped several times tend to weaken to operate at a lower current, so a new CB may be required.

Also make sure you do not operate both up and down together, as this may cause a problem, depending on the design of your relay set up.

If this can be dismantled I would have a look inside and see if there is any dirt or contaminant. Where these things sit above a damp chain locker the corrosion can be horrific and even condensation will tend to be salty.

On my last boat I had similar problems with defective relays, so I placed them in a sealed box, liberally sloshing with WD40.
 
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