Lofrans 12v Control Box - Replacement

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Tested the windlass today and dead. When I shorted the 12v cables on the control box, it worked. So, I can only guess it's the control box.

Throwing the part no. into Google isin't showing a direct (exact same look) replacement.

It's a 3-pole (12v feed, 12v up, 12v down) with 3 spade connectors.

When I go to Lofrans website, see here: https://www.lofrans.com/product/10-Lofrans-anchor-windlass-control-boxes/5034-solenoids
419245 model - out of the 3 for this model, the rear left one looks the exact same. But on their spec sheet it shows as 24v?

Any idea where i'd get an exact replacement?

 

[markc]

Yep, speak to Steve Aldridge at AR Peachment - 01603 714077 ext 108

They are UK dealers and Steve is really helpful and has loads of knowledge

 

[jrudge]

I suppose it rather depends on which cables you shorted?

Inside is basically a relay. If you shorted the big fat wires then the winch will indeed work if these is power, but I don't see how this says the box is faulty per se. The coil of the relay will need power, so I would think that the only conclusive way of telling would be to check with a multimeter that when the winch button is pressed you get a voltage at the box.

If you do and it does not work then I agree it is toast.

Any 12v winch control box that will switch 100 amps will do the same thing. I was going to say tear it to bits as it will be cheaper but to my amazement they are only £40.

https://www.marinesuperstore.com/de...MI89OS5Y3p4QIVzJ3tCh1l6QK1EAQYAyABEgLeiPD_BwE

 

[alt]

Yep, speak to Steve Aldridge at AR Peachment - 01603 714077 ext 108

They are UK dealers and Steve is really helpful and has loads of knowledge

Thanks for the info. If what I say below leads to a dud control box, i'll give him a call.

I suppose it rather depends on which cables you shorted?

Inside is basically a relay. If you shorted the big fat wires then the winch will indeed work if these is power, but I don't see how this says the box is faulty per se. The coil of the relay will need power, so I would think that the only conclusive way of telling would be to check with a multimeter that when the winch button is pressed you get a voltage at the box.

If you do and it does not work then I agree it is toast.

Any 12v winch control box that will switch 100 amps will do the same thing. I was going to say tear it to bits as it will be cheaper but to my amazement they are only £40.

https://www.marinesuperstore.com/de...MI89OS5Y3p4QIVzJ3tCh1l6QK1EAQYAyABEgLeiPD_BwE

Good point. In practical thinking terms, the black spade connector should be negative, and the grey should be positive, depending on which way the switch is turned (up / down) - When i'm back tomorrow i'll grab someone to work the switch while I check for a 12v supply. If I do get a 12v supply, it'll be the control box.

I suspect it's the control box as neither the helm switch, nor the remote, nor the foot switch will engage the anchor. Also, the control box is in the anchor locker.... when I opened the hatch, it was damp in there (understandably) - what a silly location for an electronic item.

 

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So, the windlass is working!

A bit of a blonde moment, it appears. I had turned on the trip-switch for the Windlass Motor, but not the Winlass CONTROLS (separate trip-switch) - Normally all the trips would be up, but as i'd just launched, I didn't have the accessories panel live.

A bit embarrassing, but all good

 

[vas]

good result, mine also has a 24V relay on the el. panel that powers the spades giving the signal to the control box. Never ever bother turning off the high current cables to the windlass tbh, and has never tripped yet.

but, anyway, a control box is rarely "toast", not working means you take it apart and carefully with a 200+grit (preferably 800+ ) you clean the contacts as they tend to arc a bit and become messy. That's what I've done on mine and saved a few pennies (er, not quite...) Still works 4 years on. Mine is placed just outside the anchor locker so not damp.

cheers

V.