Loctite 572 confidence.

[Gixer]

I’ve used Loctite 572 on my ball valve for my raw water intake and the excess has failed to go hard after a week. I know it says it only goes off in tight fitting threads but how do you know?
I basically fitted the ball valve to the angle I needed it which wasn’t tight on the threads and just left it. There’s no room for a locking nut or anything.
I’ve tried twisting the valve gently and it doesn’t budge so I guess all is good….

Has anyone had any issues or am I worrying for nothing?
again.

 

[Keith-i]

As you say, the excess doesn’t harden because it’s an anaerobic reaction. Mine was similar with 577.

 

[Neeves]

Many say I lack intelligence so I may not understand your problem - but why are you using Loctite on a ball valve. If it locks solid, because the Loctite is strong, how are you going to close it?

I used a red Loctite on a interscrew/sex bolt (aka ...???). I was a bit liberal. When I came to release the two components - even using a long spanner was impossible - I had to resort to a blow torch (which every yachtsmen of any class carries and has available in an instant - creme brûlée being the primary use).

There are hundreds of Loctite formulations. Unless someone has conducted a test on the same formations as yours in a similar application - who would know the answer to your dilemma

Adhesives Test - Practical Sailor

Jonathan

 

[wingcommander]

Many say I lack intelligence so I may not understand your problem - but why are you using Loctite on a ball valve. If it locks solid, because the Loctite is strong, how are you going to close it?

I used a red Loctite on a interscrew/sex bolt (aka ...???). I was a bit liberal. When I came to release the two components - even using a long spanner was impossible - I had to resort to a blow torch (which every yachtsmen of any class carries and has available in an instant - creme brûlée being the primary use).

There are hundreds of Loctite formulations. Unless someone has conducted a test on the same formations as yours in a similar application - who would know the answer to your dilemma

Adhesives Test - Practical Sailor

Jonathan

Me finks he means the lock tight was applied to the male fred of the frew hull , and not the actual ball .
I too lack intelligence, and also dizlexhick/ disslectrick/ ....not a gud speelher.

 

[Neeves]

Why precisely did he not tighten the male thread and thus allow the Loctite to be tight on the threads - why ignore the instructions. If it is all for convenience why bother with the Loctite at all.

I really don't think testing the assembly 'gently' is a procedure I would follow for a through hull fitting and I certainly would not trust it.


Dyslexia and an inability to spell may be as a result of a real problem or an annoying habit of one's computer - usually both are decipherable.

A lack of intelligence is something you tend to grow into. but usually don't recognise in self (only in others).

Jonathan

 

[Rafiki]

I had exactly the same concern and called the Henkel technical helpline, they assured me that the part trapped in the threads would go off and seal perfectly well despite the surplus squeezed out on assembly staying soft. I have subsequently used the same tube on threads within the raw water or domestic system and all have sealed perfectly. This is despite the tube being "Out of date". Brilliant stuff as it doesn't rely on the fittings being bolted up extremely tightly and hence you can get the handles in the right place.

 

[Gixer]

Why precisely did he not tighten the male thread and thus allow the Loctite to be tight on the threads - why ignore the instructions. If it is all for convenience why bother with the Loctite at all.

I really don't think testing the assembly 'gently' is a procedure I would follow for a through hull fitting and I certainly would not trust it.


Dyslexia and an inability to spell may be as a result of a real problem or an annoying habit of one's computer - usually both are decipherable.

A lack of intelligence is something you tend to grow into. but usually don't recognise in self (only in others).

Jonathan

Just to be clear, it’s the threads on the valve, not the valve itself.

The dilemma I have is that if I screw the valve all the way onto the skin fitting the handle is in the wrong place so I have to back it off 1/4 turn or so to have it in the right place. This is why I was using loctite 572 to seal the threads and hold it in the right position.

 

[Neeves]

Why nor remove 1mm from the end of the thread to allow the ball valve to seat at your preferred angle and allow you to tighten the nut securely - such that you can wrench it and it remains firmly in place (then you will not need Loctite at all (but can use PTFE tape in necessary).

Loctite is not sold to allow you to locate a device conveniently. It is designed to offer security when tightly sealed (convenient or not).

Most ball valves, not that I know many, allow the handle to be moved (taken off and replaced ) at least through 180 degrees.

I too think Loctite is absolutely magic, stunning, impressive strength for so little material applied. I have not tested its characteristics except when applied as instructed.

Jonathan

 

[Boater Sam]

You will find out how good Loktite is when you try to undo it.
I reckon it will be fine but don't quote me on your insurance claim form!

 

[penfold]

There's a reason reputable throughhull suppliers supply them with two nuts; one to fasten to the hull, the other to fasten the valve at the desired geometry.

 

[PCUK]

I use CT1 for the same task and it is 100% secure. As said, when you try to remove it you will know how well it worked.

 

[Gixer]

There's a reason reputable throughhull suppliers supply them with two nuts; one to fasten to the hull, the other to fasten the valve at the desired geometry.

When I bought the boat the skin fitting didn’t have a locking nut on the ball valve and 10years ago when I replaced the skin fitting I didn‘t fit a locking nut to the ball valve. Back then I didn’t even think about it but now I’m seriously considering fitting one. I think next time I’m down the boat (still out of the water) I’ll try and remove the fitting. If it won’t budge I’ll leave it. If it does I’ll start again.

 

[IanCC]

When I bought the boat the skin fitting didn’t have a locking nut on the ball valve and 10years ago when I replaced the skin fitting I didn‘t fit a locking nut to the ball valve. Back then I didn’t even think about it but now I’m seriously considering fitting one. I think next time I’m down the boat (still out of the water) I’ll try and remove the fitting. If it won’t budge I’ll leave it. If it does I’ll start again.

Let us know how you get on.

 

[Poignard]

I used Loctite 572 on the thread at the inboard end of the sterntube where the stuffing box/inboard bearing attaches.

That was in 2009 and it is still leak free.

A good product.

 

[alan_d]

...am I worrying for nothing?

Yes.
As pointed out in post #2, Loctite and similar thread-sealants work by hardening in the absence of air. Thus the stuff on the enclosed threads will go hard while the stuff outside will stay soft. If you can't easily unscrew it it will be fine, so don't bother to change it. Some of the advice you have been given will be worth remembering the next time you have to do the same job.

 

[Gixer]

Just to update you guys, went down today and tried to remove the fitting. using both hands I couldn’t shift it, ok I’m not what I would call super strong but feel pretty confident it’s not going to come undone easily.

I going back in the water in a week or so, so we’ll see.

 

[vyv_cox]

572 is described as a low strength, slow cure thread sealant. It sounds like an ideal application for it but there are far cheaper and equally effective solutions.

 

[superheat6k]

You will be just fine. We use 577 extensively in our business (refrigeration fittings) and personally for every threaded fitting aboard the boat. If the thread is sloppy I may also add some Plastic Tape For Engineers to improve the snugness of the fitting.

I also use 577 to assist O rings to bed in, and this is very useful with older O rings when a new is not available.