lindseed oil query

ferroboat

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I think we have made a boo boo on our interior teak, as we were advised to use boiled lindseed oil. It brought the teak up beautifully, but is taking ages to go off. We were told by someone else we should have used a mix of 70% oil and 30% turpentine. Has anyone else had experience of using the oil, and does it go off eventually. We did it last Wednesday and it is still tacky. Thanks in anticipation.
 
Maybe try wiping it down with 100% turpentine, to get rid of the excess residue on the surface?

Note - you should be using Genuine Turpentine, not Turpentine Susbstitute (Turps).
 
Re: linseed oil query

The reason that there are so many wood 'finishes' - oil, varnish, lacquer, wax and so on, is that the perfect finish has yet to be invented.
You have chosen one of the oldest and most time-consuming ones, stemming from the days of servants @ £20 per year !!

An oiled finish is acquired by :-
- The surface must be very finely sanded
- a coat of 50 / 50 oil and turps is applied, left for 10 minutes and well rubbed off with a dry cloth.
- leave for 24 hrs.
- apply undiluted oil, leave for 10 mins and polish off
- leave for 24 hrs
- more oil, more waiting , more rubbing, more waiting.
You need a dozen coats to get a really good finish - it takes for ever.
Tung oil and its derivatives is probably better than linseed.
If you have put a thick layer on it will take for ever to dry and look 'orrible.
Hope this helps
good luck
 
Like yourself, I was advised to use linseed oil on an oak desk. This was about 18 year's ago.

As per instructions, I 'topped it up' every day for about a week with a rag until it could take no more.

It still looks fabulous after all this time, a lovely soft sheen.

It took about three years for the smell to go though.
 
Dont forget when using Tung Oil, Linseed Oil etc if you leave on a folded rag they can self ignite. Always spread them flat or wash out.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Dont forget when using Tung Oil, Linseed Oil etc if you leave on a folded rag they can self ignite. Always spread them flat or wash out.

[/ QUOTE ] Thanks for this safety tip. It is supported by safety data sheets available on the web, for example. Now that I know about it, I'm off to root around in the cleaning cupboard for the rag we use to apply linseed oil to our slate floor.
 
I'll join your club, did just the same two weeks ago, thought my test pice was good, and left some of the wood on the boat looking first class !!,.... this weekend it was still tacky.

£"$!"$!" followed, by the crew still not forgiving me, stripped where the hands go with meths/turps anything so we could go out. Still always learning,,,,,, /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

On a postitve it was most useful for holding the chart to the top on one table.
 
Have a read of this and this

I used boiled linseed oil on the diving platform on my previous ferro yacht only outside due to smell. It took a month to dry and took 6 months for smell to reduce to level OK to SWMBO.

non boiled linseed oil will not dry son ensure you get boiled linseed oil
 
It goes very gummy, wipe off with a turpentine rag (thats real turpentine) enough oil will have been absorbed by the wood by now. danish oil would be more suitable for the interior of a boat, its used for work tops and the like.
 
I had to take Sahona's woodwork down to the bone and start again. I sanded, and applied one coat of teak oil, then several coats of danish (tung) oil by brush allowing to soak in and build up. It came up with a nice sheen and no smell ready for use next day after the last coat. And it seems to be lasting....
so that's the wheelhouse, now for the saloon, aft cabin,forecabin,gunwales,and all the rest outside..CU 2015?
 
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