Life expectancy of rigging?

Sorry if this is a bit off topic, but I have amongst other floating things, a Solo dinghy with one broken strand poking out of one of the s/s shrouds, just above the swage. Do you think I can put off replacing it for a few months or is it in imminent danger once one strand goes?. These are not under tension except w/w shroud when sailing.

Its unlikely that only one strand has gone - there may be others inside the rope that you cant see. Either way, it does suggest that the rope has come to the end of its life and unless there is some special reason for one side to be under more bending strain than the opposite side of the boat ( for example an impact) then you should do both sides.
 
The thing a bout a dinghy shroud is that if it lets go completely it will just lay the mast down in the water with hopefully no damage done to mast step or sails. So yes you could risk it. It is just that with keel boats the multiple stays means if one fails the mast will be destroyed. So not worth the risk. just my opinion olewill
Actually with a Solo the mast is held at the bottom with a bolt and passes through a gate in the foredeck so it's more likely to snap than fall over!
 
BTW, what does "parcel" and "service" mean in this context - I think I need to consult my 1923 edition of "Seamanship for yachtsmen" (Francis B Cooke)
 
Thanks for the advice- not really cost the issue but time taken for someone to make up a new one the same (bewildering variety of Solo masts, all slightly different rigging).
Is it usual to replace both shrouds at the same time, or all standing rigging for that matter?

Just take your old ones to the chandler - Jeckels on Oulton Broad made mine up while I waited, took about 20 mins. Personally I would change all three out because if one has aged badly so have the others probably.
 
BTW, what does "parcel" and "service" mean in this context - I think I need to consult my 1923 edition of "Seamanship for yachtsmen" (Francis B Cooke)

In this context after you hand splice you:
Worm: Lay thin line in between the strands to make it rounder
Parcel: Wrap the splice with strips of cloth soaked in grease
Serve: Pass tarred line tightly over the parcelling to seal and protect the wire.
 
Sorry if this is a bit off topic, but I have amongst other floating things, a Solo dinghy with one broken strand poking out of one of the s/s shrouds, just above the swage. Do you think I can put off replacing it for a few months or is it in imminent danger once one strand goes?. These are not under tension except w/w shroud when sailing.

What you are describing is a typical fatigue failure in multistrand cable. The failure mode occurs mostly in slack rigging, rather than the when it is fully tensioned. Cracks are probably propagating when the boat is in the dinghy park, not on the water, and the mast could well fall down there. Once one strand fails the rate will accelerate and some strands will inevitably have cracks in them already.

Fractures that users describe as 'sudden' are usually caused by fatigue. There is no deformation until the final fracture, which happens when the stress on the component exceeds its strength, usually when around 10% of the original cross sectional area remains.
 
BTW, what does "parcel" and "service" mean in this context - I think I need to consult my 1923 edition of "Seamanship for yachtsmen" (Francis B Cooke)

Parcelling wire hasn't disappeared from sail lofts at all. If you have a wire in your luff, this wire is, or should be, parcelled, but these days its normal to do it with either plastic sheathing or more usually, just white insulating tape. This doesn't really protect the wire, more it protects the Dacron cloth from rust staining. If the stainless steel wire gets continuously wet, the wire will develop slight external rusting which will stain the sailcloth. This is just a problem on wire luffs, which are now becoming a rarity. However, galvanised wire should be parcelled with a waxed or oiled rigging tape and then served (the service) with tarred marline and then slushed with a propietary tar-like compound to keep the water out.

However, I've seen galvanised wire set up naked with no ill effects. The only reasons i'm considering doing this is it would suit the baot better than Stainless rigging and its a lot easier to add ratlines to serviced wire. I have complicated things going on at the crosstrees for which a bosun's chair is not quite enough.
 
A couple of thoughts. Check with your insurance company whether they have a time frame to change the rigging, Pataenius is ten years. Also as many have said rigging tends to fail with hidden corrosion in swaged fittings. We had Stalok fittings and they don't have that problem because they are mechanical.
 
Also as many have said rigging tends to fail with hidden corrosion in swaged fittings. We had Stalok fittings and they don't have that problem because they are mechanical.

:confused: Swaged fittings are mechanical. Fatigue is mechanical. Cable in Stalock or Norseman fittings is as susceptible to fatigue failure as it is in swaged fittings. A small advantage with the made up type is that the joint can be filled with sealant, which helps to exclude water, but in my experience corrosion is a very minor contributor to rig failures.
 
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