Life Expectancy of a volvo starter motor?

[Sundowner Portofino]

Question for the knowldge base?

Engines are Volvo KAD 32's

A couple of years back one of my starter motors died completely, so replaced.

Over this winter the other is less reliable, seems to click before kicking in (or just clicks and does not kick in). However once the other engine is going and I do a battery cross over it will kick in OK.

So is this a starter issue or simply a degraded battery bank? If a battery issue what are the best batterys for keeping their juice? We have a 12v system and space for 2 x engine batteries on each side and 3 x domestic batteries.

Many thanks

 

[Chris_d]

When the starter motor just clicks it nearly always a flat battery or a loose connection, check the batteries volts with a multimeter before you turn anything on if any are less than 12.5V they are probably knackered.

 

[Sundowner Portofino]

Tar v muchly - will do

 

[Bilgediver]

Tar v muchly - will do

The battery connections are a good place to look. Take off the cable clamp connections and clean the connecting surfaces on the clamps and battery posts.

 

[carlton]

...seems to click before kicking in (or just clicks and does not kick in). However once the other engine is going and I do a battery cross over it will kick in OK.

So is this a starter issue or simply a degraded battery bank?...

Before chucking money at new batteries, check the starter slave solenoid. Try switching port and starboard and see what happens.

 

[omega2]

Once started and run, does it stop/start immediatly, if so suspect the battery, is there anything drawing off that side whilst in the berth i.e. bilge pump or other.

 

[Sundowner Portofino]

Once going and warm they will start and stop without issue, but it takes less effort ?!? (I think) to turn the engine when warm

Taking a multimeter down to the boat this weekend ad will have a route around.

Cheers for the thoughts

 

[rafiki_]

Auto starter motors are lifed for about 10 years. Generally boaty use is far less frequent, so it is likely to be a battery or connection.

Sounds like batteries to me.

 

[weyboat]

Your starter motors are "pre-engaged" ones,
Which means that an actuator/solenoid moves the two engaging gears on the starter and the flywheel into mesh before the main motor is energised,
This prevents the gears "stripping" and "slipping" but does cause a problem with the carbon contacts at the end of the actuator,
You can remove the outer casing and blow out the carbon dust that builds up which usually helps but at the end of the day it is wear on the contacts that are causing your problem (insufficient to carry enough current to spin the main motor over) so a reconditioned unit is your best bet, try www.remanufacturers.co.uk I have used them several times and have always been pleased with the results, they will do a part exchange if you are in a hurry!

 

[Surfacesub]

From my experience starter motor are good for many many years before scrapping. In electromechanical terms compare with automotive and industrial engines where they are operated more times in a year than the majority of boats in a life time (what ever that might be).

What they don't like is abuse (cranking with low volts for a long duration or a stuck switch when running leading to melt down) and the environment they are subjected to, contaminated moisture, and sometime a salt laden atmosphere.

I may be too late but with electrical faults don't disturb until you have traced the circuit and recorded the on load or switched volts. Compare the results with the good engine. If the starter switch has a crank only position use it if not disable the stop/start solenoid. With multimeter work from BOTH battery posts towards the starter (remember to record terminals e.g. lug volts also ).


If the battery in question serves other load normally then why suspect the battery.

 

[Surfacesub]

From my experience starter motors are good for many many years before scrapping. In electromechanical terms compare with automotive and industrial engines where they are operated more times in a year than the majority of boats in a life time (what ever that might be).

What they don't like is abuse (cranking with low volts for a long duration or a stuck switch when running leading to melt down) and the environment they are subjected to, contaminated moisture, and sometime a salt laden atmosphere.

I may be too late but with electrical faults don't disturb until you have traced the circuit and recorded the on load or switched volts. Compare the results with the good engine. If the starter switch has a crank only position use it if not disable the stop/start solenoid. With multimeter work from BOTH battery posts towards the starter (remember to record lug volts also ).

At the junction where you see greatest potential difference, suspect and clean. However, if when you reach the starter the post volts are good and if the negative circuit is also good the fault is with internal contacts or motor brush gear.

Depending upon the stater manufacturer you may find another single separate lug/braid/stud and if the volts are O. K. then I would suggest a sticking or suspect brush. If the volts arriving at the starter are O. K. then the internal contacts need cleaning being 95% of starter problem.

Cost precious little, effort depends!!