Lewmar V2 windlass operating current

[AllanG]

Does anyone know what the operating current is for a Lewmar V2 windlass? The instruction manual only gives the cable rating, which should be 5A, so I presume the operating current is less than 4A....would this be correct?

Allan

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

I'd be amazed if it was 4 amps. A quick google suggests that the 12v V2 is 700w, and the 24v is 900w. From there you get 58.3a for 12v, and 37.5a for 24v.

Cheers
Jimmy

 

[AllanG]

Sorry to mislead, but it's the windlass signal output current I'm after, not the operating current.

The reason I need this information is because I'm considering fitting a remote control unit for my Sleipner bow thruster, and the remote can also control a windlass, but the manual for the remote states:

"NB: Max. load on the windlass signal output is 4A!
If the windlass requires more than 4A, use extra control relay"

Hope someone can help?

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

Haven't a clue. But per your previous thread on this subject, I've fitted the sidepower remote to my boat, which has a lewmar v2/3 windlass, and it works fine.

Cheers
Jimmy

 

[AllanG]

Many thanks again Jimmy. As a matter of interest, can you recall how you connected the remote receiver cables to your windlass controls....did you just connect them to the windlass up/down switches? Sorry to ask, but the remote instruction manual I've downloaded isn't very clear.

Also, I presume the cables for the bow thruster are connected to the normal b/t joystick controller.....is this correct?

Cheers, Allan

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

Yes the remote just connects to the windlass switch. It is plug-and-play to the bowthruster joystick. We've probably spent longer discussing the installation on this thread than it will take to do the actual installation...

Cheers
Jimmy

 

[AllanG]

Thanks again Jimmy, and I hope you're right about the time to do this mod....there again, you haven't seen my electrical skills....or lack of them!!

Cheers, Allan

 

[jfm]

The remote unit's 4Amp output only has to operate the relay for the windlass, not the windlass itself. That will be much less than 4 amps, more like 0.4Amps, so you will be fine

 

[vas]

The remote unit's 4Amp output only has to operate the relay for the windlass, not the windlass itself. That will be much less than 4 amps, more like 0.4Amps, so you will be fine

+1

unless it's a well worn out and dodgy relay
but seriously, signal current is nothing, don't worry, just stick it in!
I suppose it's easier if you rip off the toggle switches on the dash and do both connections (windlass + bow) there rather than hunting the windlass relay on the bow and the thruster control box on the thruster itself...

cheers

V.

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

+1

unless it's a well worn out and dodgy relay
but seriously, signal current is nothing, don't worry, just stick it in!
I suppose it's easier if you rip off the toggle switches on the dash and do both connections (windlass + bow) there rather than hunting the windlass relay on the bow and the thruster control box on the thruster itself...

cheers

V.

Yep, that's what I did.

Cheers
Jimmy

 

[jfm]

+1

unless it's a well worn out and dodgy relay
but seriously, signal current is nothing, don't worry, just stick it in!
I suppose it's easier if you rip off the toggle switches on the dash and do both connections (windlass + bow) there rather than hunting the windlass relay on the bow and the thruster control box on the thruster itself...

cheers

V.

+1. Definitely connect to the windlass relay wires at the dashboard switch end, rather than down at the bow. And obviously connect to the bowthruster joystick at the dashboard end too. Then this is a quick/easy job, as JTB says. OP will need to decide where to take a 12/24v feed for the remote receiver box from, ideally a fresh 24/12v supply from the breaker panel I'd suggest, but that depends on various practicalities and it maybe necessary to hijack something else to get a supply

 

[AllanG]

Had a look at my helm switches today, and agree that it will certainly be easier to connect the remote receiver at this end....now I've just got to work out which wires to connect but, at least I have a spare switch that I think I can use for the receiver 12v supply.