lewmar ocean 1 help needed

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youen

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Today I remove the gypsy on my Ocean 1 Lewmar windlass for servicing.I found the small white washer normally fitted under the lower cone (part 12) broken,the big blue washer ( part 11) in bad state and a lot of rust coming perhaps from the seal (part 13).The windlass is still working,what must I do.Thaks
 
I have no pictures.When the gypsy is removed you find the lower cone normally there is a rubbing washer under it, then the seal washer and then a seal .On mine the rubbing washer is broken and there is a mix of salt and rust coming from under the cone,is the seal destroy? how can I have a look at that?
 
Suggest you call Lewmar technical department. They are very helpful and can supply any spares mail order. On their website you will find exploded diagrams and parts list which may help you work out how your windlass is put together. The diagram may also be in the owners manual for the windlass.
 
I had a look at the owner manual,I think I must undo the engine from below to get access to the shaft then I have to get the shaft out from above the deck because the lower cone is pressed on the shaft and so after I can check the bearing seal and put a new washer on under the lower cone as on the diagram.Am I right ?
 
I try to take apar the motor gearbox, undid the 4 bolts from under,after I dont understand if the engine is sticked to the chain locker by the sealant or if it sticks to the shaft by some corrosion,it does not move at all.At first I want to avoid any damage using big screw drivers as lever.How can I cut the sealant the layer is very thin without damaging the locker gelcoat or the paint surface of the motor?Thanks
 
We definitely have a phone number, it's on the website under "lewmar offices".

Call 02392 471841 and select tech support from the menu.

Youen, your understanding from looking at the exploded diagram is spot on. You need to remove gearbox below deck and then remove circlip holding shaft under deck.Whole shaft should then lift up and out.

Ben
 
youen said:
I had a look at the owner manual,I think I must undo the engine from below to get access to the shaft then I have to get the shaft out from above the deck because the lower cone is pressed on the shaft and so after I can check the bearing seal and put a new washer on under the lower cone as on the diagram.Am I right ?
Click to expand...

Dear Youen

I have been through this process. If you lower cone is pressed onto the shaft - as it should be - then getting the shaft up and off the motor can be difficult if the shaft is stuck within the motor - as mine was.
I have posted this on a previous thread. I have my instructions on how to get the shaft out on a document in a shared dropbox folder http://db.tt/mitFC0t2

Hopefully this will help you avoid the pain that I went through.

I hope that this helps

TudorSailor
 
Thanks Tudorsailor I had already had a look on your thread.My windlass is a Concept one,The lower cone is fixed to the shaft so if I am right I must remove the motorgearbox down the shaft under the deck,I knock wood wedges between the flanges of the gear box and the deck to try to get the gearbox sliding down the shaft but it stays stucked,what can I do to take the motorgearbox apart,did I forget something ??Thanks
 
Hi again

I do not think that you can take the motor apart. I was told by Lewmar man not be gentle! So big hammer, and metal rather than wooden wedges to get the motor down far enough to reveal the circlip. Chisels and screwdrivers plus lots of swearing are required. The windllass was described, by Lewmar man who advised me on the phone, as being "agricultural in design. So easily withstands lots of hammering!

If you are having a problem getting the motor down and then off the shaft I bet you will have a problem getting the Woodruff key out of the shaft - once it is exposed. A heatgun might help. More hammering and swearing to get it out. You need to understand that the cross section of the Woodruff key is rectangular and so it should lever out its bed. Once out, it is worth getting it ground down to make the fit almost sloppy so you do not have to go through this pain again.

I did all this sitting in the anchor locker in 35C heat. Was not fun, but satisfying once done. In theory, I ought to take it all apart in a couple of years before it all gets stuck again......

Good luck

TS
 
Many thanks I will try one more time(perhaps two or surely more) tomorrow, spent 4 hours today it was only10 C and the gearbox is still stuck to the shaft,I agree the problem is the key.Where is the circlip ?If I undo the upper cover of the gearbox screwed by Allen screws will the job be easier?
 
Tudor,I think your windlass is a concept or ocean 2 mine is 1 and the circlip is not at the same place as on the 1,do you agree?
 
The circlip is around the bit of shaft that is the first bit exposed as it comes through the windlass or in my case just below the extension piece below the windlass. Once you get the motor separated you will see it.
Here is a photo of my shaft after I got it out eventually. You can see that there is no lower cone, which was part of the problem for me as it had not been pressed onto the shaft.
Shaft.jpg
. Be aware that I have an extension piece on the shaft so it is probably longer than yours.
Basically you need to apply alot of brute force to get the motor down enough to reveal the circlip. If you have circlip pliers you can preserve the circlip when you remove the shaft. However Lewmar can supply you with a new circlip if you damage the origianl one by levering it out its groove

Good luck

TS
 
Shaft2.png

Sorry, cannot get thumbnail to work from photobucket. Although the circlip is shown below the shaft in the diagram, it goes around the shaft where there is a groove. The part of the shaft where is it labled "6" is the part of the shaft that is within the base fitting. So the groove for the circlip is just below this. The circlip is there to stop the shaft rising up out the motor into the base plate unit

TS
 
Ok if I understand well I must still try to force down the shaft with nothing to dismantle before .Many thanks for your help,I am going to the boat this morning;
 
Today I succeed to move the motor gearbox,it was an horrible job.At first I to knock hard wood wedges between the top of the gearbox and the under deck,the beast did not move at all,so I put a lot of lubricant ,waited many hours and try again but was unsuccessfull.Lewmar support suggest to slide and hawksaw between the deck and the gear box and cut the shaft it was impossible.So with the help of my engineer we decide to undo the bolts of the upper cap of the gearbox (put a bucket under as there is oil inside) then we knocked metal wedges between the cap and the gear box,the gearbox begin to slide down the shaft.Infortunatly at one moment the gearbox broke in 2 parts:the main body and on the other side a bearing ,a gear and the central part of the gearbox still stuck to the shaft but this time we had enough room to fit an extractor and with brutal force were able to get the remainings parts of the gearbox down the shaft.It was totally corroded inside the key was stuck to the shaft.After that we only have to undo the small circlip located at the top of the shaft just under the deck,and get the shaft through the deck.And here we discover another disaster the alloy base of the winlass was totally eaten by corrosion the recess where the water rubberseal is located have diappeared and the rubberseal was destroyed as it had melted and was stuck to the shaft and turn with it.So the windlass must be changed,2 days before it looks as new and was working.This model was a Lewmar Concept One 10 years old I think the conception was poor to prevent seawater getting inside the gearbox,in the owner manual they recommand only to rinse the windlass with fresh water and put some grease on the cone and shaft,as the rubber seal is fitted under a nylon washer under the lower cone fixed to the shaft you cant have a look at its state and eventually change it,I was also surprised to find a plastic bush instead of a roller bearing around the shaft.Well now I must buy another windlass but which? I want to find another easier to maintain and more reliable in terms of conception:bronze alloy stainless are not well together in salt water,sometimes I ask myself if the Lewmar engineers have an idea about what is a boat and the use and maitenance of their products Excuse my poor English but I hope my experience can help
 
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