Lewmar Mainsheet Track

[chrisjrob]

I went to replace the rope on the mainsheet traveller on my Westerly Merlin 29 (1992), but I couldn't see a way of removing the rope. I thought instead I would remove one of the blocks at each end, then remove the traveller and hopefully it would be easier to see how to remove the rope.

I undid the retaining bolts and removed the blocks, under which there was a grub screw which obviously held the car in place at the end of the track. I removed the grub screw, but still could not budge the car.

It rocks slightly laterally, but there is no movement longitudinally. In desperation I tried hitting the car with a hammer, but it simply would not budge. I covered in WD40 and left for a few hours, but it made no difference.

I sought professional help from a rigger, but he was baffled as well. He could see no way of removing the locked cars. I can certainly see why this rope looks so old, starting to think it may even date back to 1992!

The fact that the car rocks slightly would indicate that the car itself is not welded or corroded on.

I have uploaded photos to Flickr: http://flic.kr/s/aHsjGJPWcf

Maybe I have become too focused on removing the cars at each end, and perhaps I should concentrate on taking apart the traveller.

Any advice gratefully received!

 

[grumpy_o_g]

When you say the car do you mean the retaining blocks or end caps at each end of the track? To me the car is the bit that slides along - is that what's solid? If it is the end caps are you sure those two screws at each end don't go through the wood as well as the aluminium track? Maybe undo a bit of track - i.e the screws holding it down to the wood - and see if you can lift it up a bit to check between the track and the wood.

If you do mean what I call the car and you've just not been using the mainsheet traveller then is the track damaged underneath the sliding traveller? If that's what's stuck I suspect you're into dismantling it but I would definitely explore every other opportunity first.

 

[john_morris_uk]

I strongly suspect that the s/s studs that are sticking up go all the way through the track and are thus holding the end stops in place. We have a similar (though not identical) track and that us certainly the case with ours. I think the grub screw is only there to help with assembly and doesn't take the real load.

Can you gain access to the underside of where the track is mounted? I suspect the whole thing will have to come off and be re-bedded when its refitted.

I only know about this at all as I replaced our track, car and end sheaves.

 

[macd]

chris: I have a track/traveller much like that on my boat. Unfortunately it had been messed about by the previous owner-gawd-how-I-hate-that-bodging-moron, so I can't tell you exactly how it was originally. However, the slot in the traveller through which the rope passes was probably not designed for that purpose: I think it originally held a plastic buffer to soften the blow when it hit the end stops/sheave holders (the things you call cars).

I am pretty sure that taking off the traveller won't be much help -- unless the traveller line is secured by an internal fastener like another grub screw. If so, this would have been some sort of owner's modification.

I suspect you may have to get the line out/off by whatever means works. On mine I tapped and thread-inserted a couple of fasteners for stainless hoops on which to fasten the line -- on the side opposite the circular slot, where there's more meat. This can be done in situ. I can't say how the end sheave holders come off because mine didn't have any.

 

[chrisjrob]

When you say the car do you mean the retaining blocks or end caps at each end of the track? To me the car is the bit that slides along - is that what's solid?

Yes I shouldn't have called the end blocks cars - very confusing! I believe they should behave like cars though, once the grub screws are removed - but they don't.

If it is the end caps are you sure those two screws at each end don't go through the wood as well as the aluminium track? Maybe undo a bit of track - i.e the screws holding it down to the wood - and see if you can lift it up a bit to check between the track and the wood.

Well if that was the case, I don't think that the "end caps" as I will now call them would rock. Nevertheless it is a possibility that they at least protrude down into the track. In which case I would need to undo them somehow.

I strongly suspect that the s/s studs that are sticking up go all the way through the track and are thus holding the end stops in place. We have a similar (though not identical) track and that us certainly the case with ours. I think the grub screw is only there to help with assembly and doesn't take the real load.

To be fair I can't imagine the grub screws alone would be strong enough to fix the ends; so I am starting to come around to this way of thinking!

Can you gain access to the underside of where the track is mounted? I suspect the whole thing will have to come off and be re-bedded when its refitted.
I only know about this at all as I replaced our track, car and end sheaves.

I can't think how, but I guess I will have to find a way. I still don't see how the ends manage to rock if they are screwed all the way through, but I am realising that it isn't quite as I imagine.

chris: I have a track/traveller much like that on my boat. Unfortunately it had been messed about by the previous owner-gawd-how-I-hate-that-bodging-moron, so I can't tell you exactly how it was originally. However, the slot in the traveller through which the rope passes was probably not designed for that purpose: I think it originally held a plastic buffer to soften the blow when it hit the end stops/sheave holders (the things you call cars).

Well maybe his bodge was in trying to do exactly what I'm trying to do - replace the aged rope!

I am pretty sure that taking off the traveller won't be much help -- unless the traveller line is secured by an internal fastener like another grub screw. If so, this would have been some sort of owner's modification.

I suspect this is all original, it certainly doesn't have the look of a modification.

I suspect you may have to get the line out/off by whatever means works. On mine I tapped and thread-inserted a couple of fasteners for stainless hoops on which to fasten the line -- on the side opposite the circular slot, where there's more meat. This can be done in situ. I can't say how the end sheave holders come off because mine didn't have any.

Yes, I think you're probably right. I feel that I need to try and leave the track itself intact, but remove and replace the traveller and the end caps. The track is exactly 30mm - so hopefully the fact it is metric means that I can replace everything. The rigger warned me that if I do this, it will prove expensive. I guess I should start bracing myself for some more expense.

Thank you all for your advice.

 

[alahol2]

Have you tried speaking to Lewmar? They have always been exceptionally helpful to me with queries.

 

[chrisjrob]

Have you tried speaking to Lewmar? They have always been exceptionally helpful to me with queries.

A replacement is £280.

I think I am going to just cut the existing rope off and attach the new ropes to the traveller in some other way, perhaps shackles off the top U bracket on the traveller.

Thanks.

 

[BAtoo]

It's sort of similar to my traveller.

The end bits I call stoppers and they don't move except to be removed. On top of them there is presumably a turning block?
The traveller line will start at the traveller car, probably from where it is emerging, go up to the turning block on the stopper and back around the turning block on the car and through the cleats. it's a 2:1 purchase.
In the part of the car that goes over the track there should be some plastic (delrin) balls, maybe these have broken a jammed the car. Removal of the car is at either end once the stoppers have been removed. IIRR the stoppers are secured to the track independently of the track to boat fixings.

Hope this helps....

 

[macd]

BAtoo: I don't think the traveller's jammed: he can't get it off because the the stoppers/sheave holders won't budge. I also suspect from the age he mentions, thst there are no delrin balls, but rather small metal wheels running on bearings, probably three or four each side of the track. Whilst it would obviously be better if the traveller could be removed and inspected from the inside, I don't think it'll come to any great harm if it stays put, providing the bearings are in decent shape: depends how hard used.

 

[BAtoo]

BAtoo: I don't think the traveller's jammed: he can't get it off because the the stoppers/sheave holders won't budge. I also suspect from the age he mentions, thst there are no delrin balls, but rather small metal wheels running on bearings, probably three or four each side of the track. Whilst it would obviously be better if the traveller could be removed and inspected from the inside, I don't think it'll come to any great harm if it stays put, providing the bearings are in decent shape: depends how hard used.

Ah, misunderstood the problem/terminology......