Lewmar H2 Windlass Gypsy Not Rotating

[lawrence_craig]

Hi all,

Today, my gypsy on my windlass stopped rotating. The motor operates and if I move/wiggle the gypsy a little without load, it turns but when you put load on it, it doesn't turn. I expect either the keyway has gone on it or worse, the worm gear. When there's load on it, you can kind of hear something grating as the motor turns. Sounds like the worn part skipping over the teeth/slot.

I am going to tear it down to find out but I had a question before I did that. I would expect if either to have gone, the gypsy would turn freely by hand yet it doesn't. Even with the anchor out and the chain in the gypsy, it doesn't turn. Why might this be?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Neeves]

It may be, as you surmise, that the worm gearing has failed. However if it has failed then the fault would probably be - no oil in the gear box. If this is the case then the windlass has not been serviced and the shaft has also seized (through lack of service). If the shaft has seized I would expect the gearbox to turn when it has lost its teeth.

If the shaft has seized and there is no oil in the gearbox you have the perfect environment for the teeth to strip.

How old is the windlass, how long have you owned the windlass, when was is last serviced.

The recommended service period is commonly 12 months.

If this is a new to you yacht - the windlass may never have been serviced.

You may have difficulty in dismantling - all the stainless bolts may also be seized. Your best bet is to remove from the yacht and take home and take it apart there as you have a comfortable environment and access to more tools and facilities. Bending over a hole in the deck is not conducive to working.

But do report back - it is educational for us all.

Good Luck

Jonathan

 

[Neeves]

Speaking with a windlass maker the two most common reports of windlass failure are:

No oil in the gearbox

the shaft seizing

Reading threads here other common faults, more or less common.....??

Poor wiring, the windlass vibrates in use the connections can be loosened if inadequately tightened at the outset.

Galvanic corrosion as a result of use of stainless fasteners in aluminium components (commonly castings). The issue becomes so severe that the windlass cannot be dismantled. Installers do not appear to use Duralac and owners do not service, at all.

We had issues with our solenoid 'sticking' - I don't know if that is common. I became quite adept at taking the solenoid apart and cleaning the contacts.

Amazingly windlass can work flawlessly for 20 years without service - but the recommended service period is 12 months, check oil, clean shaft - use Duralac when you re-assemble. Servicing a windlass is relatively easy and quick - but its out of sight, out of mind, until it is not.

If anyone can add to my list of failure points - please feel free.

Jonathan

 

[lawrence_craig]

Thanks Jonathan, it was serviced last year by but I suspect the engineer didn't strip down to the gearbox, my mistake for not checking.

I suspect no oil in gearbox as the shaft turns and I can get purchase from time to time (e.g. it will spool the chain out but not in). Therefore suspect it's to do with the drive assembly.

I'll strip it down over the weekend and see what the issue is.

 

[Neeves]

Thanks Jonathan, it was serviced last year by but I suspect the engineer didn't strip down to the gearbox, my mistake for not checking.

I suspect no oil in gearbox as the shaft turns and I can get purchase from time to time (e.g. it will spool the chain out but not in). Therefore suspect it's to do with the drive assembly.

I'll strip it down over the weekend and see what the issue is.

There is not much to do for a service - finish late morning coffee, check that the shaft is cleaned and greased. Check the oil in the gear box. Have lunch. Prepare invoice for customer.

If it will go out but not in then it might be the solenoid and or connections at the solenoid. Simply check that the heavy duty cables at the solenoid are firmly and tightly connected (I have this seared into my memory bank - I installed but the cables were not tight and loosened). Checked the cables also at the motor, same issues.

If the motor operates both out and in then it might be there are enough of the teeth to allow it out but not in, or vice versa.

Jonathan

 

[lawrence_craig]

If the motor operates both out and in then it might be there are enough of the teeth to allow it out but not in, or vice versa.

I think this is it. When I mention it goes out and in, I mean you can hear the motor turning. And without the chain on it, the gyspy will turn out and in. But the minute you put load on it, it will only let chain out but not in. Suggests to me the teeth on the worm are gone

 

[Neeves]

I don't know, specifically, your windlass, Muir and Maxwell being local are more common here. But windlass are relatively simple and follow the same designs. The gear box (grand term for the device ) is commonly easy to access - because it is really one of 2 major service items (and the servicing is hardly major). So as long as you can access the gear box, easily, or simply remove the whole device, easily - its not a major task. Our gear box has a large see through bolt, its plastic, its the filler and sight glass combined and we can see the oil level and state of the oil. This, I suspect, is a modern innovation and you might have to dismantle - but its not difficult.

The only caution is if the casting is aluminium and the fasteners are stainless - in which case it might be a more serious proposition. But if it was serviced recently then the engineer who took it apart 12 months ago, surely he used Duralac - so you will be good to go. I also assume your windlass is deck mounted - so should be comfortably accessible.

I have the current or a recent Lewmar catalogue and the Lewmar H2 is described in with a breakdown of all the parts. I assume you have the 12v version (though it seems to be the same as the 24v version - the difference being the motor). It is not entirely clear but it seems the gear box and motor comes as one unit - but maybe I mis-interpret. The shaft has a spline in it which seems to lock into the gypsy.

On the assumption this is all simply - do have Duralac handy for when you re-assemble.

Do turn off the circuit breaker - before you start

Good luck

Jonathan

 

[lawrence_craig]

Stripped out the main shaft and it's not the keyway so definitely think the teeth on the worm gear has gone. You're right in that the Gbox and motor are 1 unit, so will need to replace the lot. Thanks for the advice.

 

[sailaboutvic]

Stupid question , I take it the clutch is tight , if not the gypsy will go around without load but stop once the chain on .

 

[sailaboutvic]

When it comes to servicing windlass manufactory don't make it easy with some windlass , I had a Lewmar on my Dufour some years back .
To drain the oil you had to remover the windlass from the boat.
To do that it was a major operations, I had to remove part of the bulk head to get to the bolts , then the gearbox and the motor had to be split , that was a job and a half on its own.
So I can understand why some windlass never get a good service other then a clean .

 

[sailaboutvic]

This is the second windlass problem in so many weeks . It be great if people would report back once the problem found so others could learn from mistake.

 

[colind3782]

This is the second windlass problem in so many weeks . It be great if people would report back once the problem found so others could learn from mistake.

I did post an update on my thread Vic. Work still in progress.