Let's Talk Oil! Liqui Moly- Good Oil For Penta D1-20?

The Real Flipper

The Real Flipper

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Found it on Amazon at a decent price. Reviews look good. Then again I bought a salt and pepper grinder set- 5 star that literally fell apart in days LOL.
Anyway I imagine that when I start covering distances I'll need to change oil in some pretty random places, where whatever brand of oil may not be available.
So I wonder, is pretty much any brand OK? How bad or OK is it to mix brands?
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B01DW7ZV7E

Finally I found a few tools and wonder if these are good choices to make life easier:
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B08561W78H

https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B0763QGJKT

I see many oil changes in my future. I want to take good care of my engine. It's one of the best parts of my boat!
 
Molybdenum disulphide is a boundary lubricant. Components needing boundary lubrication are those that do not enjoy hydrodynamic lubrication, gears, cams and piston rings at the top of their stroke.

Oil manufacturers have known this for 100 years. Oils from any good company will contain plenty of better boundary lub than Moly, so buying it is wasting your money. You will sometimes see adverts for such products illustrating their superb performance in, for example, the four ball test, a favourite one. However, we never get anything for nothing and they don't tell you that some other property, e.g. foaming, filterability or something else, has been significantly compromised.

You just might see some benefit if you buy the cheapest recycled oils on the market but I assume you are not interested in them.
 
OK, so now for a couple of stupid questions.
Is diesel oil any different from regular motor oil?
Will any 15w40 (manufacturer's recommendation VDS3) do?
Can you recommend any of these?

Amazon.de : diesel15w-40

Castrol GTX, Valvoline, Mobil 1000? Is any better than the other?

This is highly rated. But says Synthetic. Is that a problem to convert to synthetic? Is it better.
I think I need to join an oil forum for all these questions LOL :)
 
Last edited:
vyv_cox said:
Molybdenum disulphide is a boundary lubricant. Components needing boundary lubrication are those that do not enjoy hydrodynamic lubrication, gears, cams and piston rings at the top of their stroke.

Oil manufacturers have known this for 100 years. Oils from any good company will contain plenty of better boundary lub than Moly, so buying it is wasting your money. You will sometimes see adverts for such products illustrating their superb performance in, for example, the four ball test, a favourite one. However, we never get anything for nothing and they don't tell you that some other property, e.g. foaming, filterability or something else, has been significantly compromised.

You just might see some benefit if you buy the cheapest recycled oils on the market but I assume you are not interested in them.
Click to expand...
Does the oil in question actually contain MoS2 or is Liqui Moly merely a brand name

.
 
Please get the handbook for the engine. The recommended oil is 15W40 mineral oil to minimum API CF (that will be on the back of the can). It is a very basic oil as these engines are simple low stressed industrial engines. Oil and filter needs changing every 150 hours or annually, which are often much the same. You will never wear the engine out - the need for annual oil change is because the engine spends most of its life doing nothing interspersed with short runs at light loads - the very opposite of what it was designed for. Despite that if you follow the basics the engine will last 30 or 40 years! You will often find this grade of oil sold as suitable for older diesel cars and is relatively cheap.

However, personally I only used Volvo branded oil (and filter) in my D1 30 because I bought the boat new (lots of noughts on the end!) and the difference in cost each year between "cheap" oils and pattern filters is less than £30. Very comforting for the buyer when I sold it after 6 years to have a complete history of service using Volvo parts. On the other hand my previous Volvo 2030 which I had in a commercial charter boat used cheaper oil and filters because it ran typically 4-500 hours a year and we changed the oil every 200 hours or so. Had 3500 hours on it when I sold it and ran perfectly.
 
The Real Flipper said:
Found it on Amazon at a decent price. Reviews look good. Then again I bought a salt and pepper grinder set- 5 star that literally fell apart in days LOL.
Anyway I imagine that when I start covering distances I'll need to change oil in some pretty random places, where whatever brand of oil may not be available.
So I wonder, is pretty much any brand OK? How bad or OK is it to mix brands?
LIQUI MOLY 25016 Marine 4T Engine Oil 15W-40 5 L : Amazon.de: Automotive

Finally I found a few tools and wonder if these are good choices to make life easier:
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B08561W78H

https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B0763QGJKT

I see many oil changes in my future. I want to take good care of my engine. It's one of the best parts of my boat!
Click to expand...
The spanner might be difficult to use if space is limited, but you might be more fortunate than me in that respect.
The Pela is a good idea. Works better when the engine is hot. I have now retired mine in favour of a 12v pump from Lidl.
The specifications for the oil are on page 58 of the owners' manual, basically Multigrade 15W-40 with VDS3
or VDS2 and ACEA E7
or VDS2 and API CH-4
or VDS2 and API CI-4
They say you can use semisynthetic or full synthetic, but it's unnecessary in such a simple, unstressed industrial engine, and besides, it's hard enough to find 15W-40 without the complication of finding it in synthetic!
Having zoomed your image of the Liquid Moly oil I can confirm that it complies with the specs outlined in the manual and the label states that it is a mineral oil suitable for both petrol and diesel engines. Go for it!
(OTOH, if you are in the UK, and this oil has to come from Germany, with the inevitable shipping plus Customs charges,perhaps it's not such a good bargain after all.
I normally buy from a motor factor's, but this season I discovered in a nearby business park, a business that actually specialised in lubricants, that was able to supply 5litres of correctly specced oil at a better price. Perhaps there's one near you.)
 
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Previous thread about same:

Engine oil - alternatives to Volvo Penta 15W40 VDS-3

And:
VicS said:
You dont say what engine !! but presumably a Volvo Penta as it sounds as though you have splashed out on Volvo oils as well!

40526.jpg


At least I guess you mean VDS-2 and VDS-3 They refer to the draining ( changing) intervals and are more relevant to operators or fleets of commercial vehicles where time in the service bay is time they are not earning

From VP website:


Most people go to Halfords, Tesco or Asda etc and buy their own brand diesel engine of of the appropriate SAE viscosity grade. (15W40 ?)

The oil should not normally be above the max mark............. but follow the instructions in the owners manual. Usually that's to check when the engine is hot, allowing a short time after stopping.
It's not significantly different to changing and checking the level in your car!


A small dent in the filter should be no problem so long as its not punctured or compromising a seam
Click to expand...

VDS4 and -5 now also published (for bigger engines), but adding a perspective on VDS3, found in
Automotive Lubricants Reference Book - Page 567

VDS3.jpg
 
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vyv_cox said:
I confess I did not open his link and assumed he was talking about an additive.
Click to expand...
ITYWF it is just misleading brand name encompassing over 4000 products.
There is no mention of MoS2 in any of the descriptions of the oil mentioned in this thread.

.
 
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The Real Flipper said:
OK, so now for a couple of stupid questions.
Is diesel oil any different from regular motor oil?
Will any 15w40 (manufacturer's recommendation VDS3) do?
Can you recommend any of these?

Amazon.de : diesel15w-40

Castrol GTX, Valvoline, Mobil 1000? Is any better than the other?

This is highly rated. But says Synthetic. Is that a problem to convert to synthetic? Is it better.
I think I need to join an oil forum for all these questions LOL :)
Click to expand...
The label on your Liquid Moly 15w 40 says it is suitable for Diesel and Petrol engines.
There was a time when the oils for diesel and petrol were labelled separately, but nowadays they seem to be formulated to suit either.
 
Spirit (of Glenans) said:
The label on your Liquid Moly 15w 40 says it is suitable for Diesel and Petrol engines.
There was a time when the oils for diesel and petrol were labelled separately, but nowadays they seem to be formulated to suit either.
Click to expand...
And if you search Liqui Moly's site for the oil for a D1-20 you will find that it is one of the recommended oils.
 
The Real Flipper said:
Found it on Amazon at a decent price. Reviews look good. Then again I bought a salt and pepper grinder set- 5 star that literally fell apart in days LOL.
Anyway I imagine that when I start covering distances I'll need to change oil in some pretty random places, where whatever brand of oil may not be available.
So I wonder, is pretty much any brand OK? How bad or OK is it to mix brands?
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B01DW7ZV7E

Finally I found a few tools and wonder if these are good choices to make life easier:
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B08561W78H

https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B0763QGJKT

I see many oil changes in my future. I want to take good care of my engine. It's one of the best parts of my boat!
Click to expand...
After many years of seeing oils change i now do not bother with NEW tech but stick to what the engine manual says and have found the oil stays cleaner longer than MODERN oils.
 
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