leg service question

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taormina

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hello, have a 5.7gsi vp with a vp290dp leg, and am planning a service, have been told to do bare minimum to engine, filter, oil change but to get the leg serviced, leg not serviced for couple of seasons but was fine before boat came out of water,(geae oil good,) should i take this advice , EBY gave, or leave well alone/ your thoughts please! and what to specify service engineer to do? thanks
 
Have you just brought the boat?? Why would someone recommend the bare minimum especially as its not been touched for a few seasons?

Something to hide is it a warranty issue thats waiting to be uncovered???

If iun doubt of service history would recommend a good going over. Bellows maybe leaking, stern drive top seal leaking oil, water in the drive.

Saves an expensive lift out later if something should fail because it was not done.

On the engine again if service history unknown do oil and filter, fuel filters and check for water in fuel, change the impeller, change plugs and check for condition see how engine is running......maybe worth pulling the t-stat out and checking if not replace it for the cost involved.....again all depends on the budget.

Have the diagnostic machine plugged in as well see how the electronics are etc
 
I d check/change the anodes on the leg, and change the oil. At least you then know from where you are starting with those.
The bellows are to protect the drive mechanisms down into the leg. If it fails, you now have your mechanics swimming in salt water instead of grease, which sooner or later will result is a very big bill.
The rubber boot should be free from grit and barnacles etc, anything that might abrade or cut the rubber, and it should still be supple and flexible, so it can concertina without cracking. They should be fine for two years at least 2 years if that all seems ok. Of course, they might last longer, but given the potential damage from a failure, most people think its wiser to replace them and sleep easy!
 
Jumping on the band wagon here... I intend to service my 290 dp-e legs myself shortly and wondered if anyone can give a basic step by step order of how to do it and what normal service parts I need to order.

Many thanks

Kevin.
 
Basic servicing would consist of bellows, oil and anodes. For bellows follow Spannermans advice as it saves removing the whole leg and is much easier. Oil, drain and refill each season, anodes replace each year or when 50% worn.
 
Outdrive service

The UJ bellows and exhaust bellows only need changing every other year according to Volvo. Inspect and replace if necessary.

To renew the UJ bellows you will either have to remove the drives or separate the upper drive housing from the intermediate housing.
At 60 kg, the sterndrives are heavy and awkward, however I usually remove the drives each year so I can clean, antifoul and top up with oil in the comfort of my garage at home.

While the sterndrives are still on, remove the props and old ring anodes. Protect the shafts by wrapping something like polythene round them - they are covered in grease which attracts all the dust in the boatyard. Remove the bar anode at the base of the transom shield and keep to put back on if ok.(usually get a couple of seasons out of these)
Remove the oil drain plug with impact screw driver and check that the oil runs clear and not emulsified thus proving the integrity of the seals.(Volvo recommend renewing the oil every year)

To take the sterndrives off, take the weight onto the skeg with timber blocks and folding wedges. Remove the cover plate and release the gear selector cable. Undo the bolts to the steering helmet clamp (6 mm allen key or hex socket) and remove the clamp by screwing in the long coverplate screw.
Push the steering helmet up as far as it will go.
Swing the drive starboard remove the left bolt securing the gear selecter cable clamp, swing the drive to port and likewise remove the right bolt and recover the clamp plate that secures the selecter cable. Pull on the cable to esure it is free to move through the hole in the drive.
Undo the jubilee clips and release the UJ bellows, exhaust bellows and water intake hose from the drive. (flexible screwdiver with 7mm hex socket required to remove jubilee clips)
Remove the split pins and clevis pins from the forks.

This bit really needs two people.The two pins securing the drive to shield can now be removed. These can be drifted in but is sometimes difficult to recover them from between the forks and the steering helmet. Much better to screw in a 6mm bolt into the end of the pins which are threaded for this pupose and pull the pins out using a slide hammer puller.
Take the weight of the drive and ease the drive backwards so the UJ separatesform the engine output shaft and carefully ease the gear selecter cable free from the drive.

The above may sound daunting but is relatively easy and only takes about 30 to 40 minutes.

Clean and antifoul drives. Clean anode contact area and renew ring anodes.

Check the reverse latch mechanism and adjust if necessary.

Putting the drives back on is the preverbial reverse order but you have to line up the holes in the forks to the holes in the shields at the same time turn the UJ joint onto the splines of the engine output shaft. This is best achieved by placing the skeg of the drive onto a piece of timber arranged as a lever that you can stand on to raise the level of the drive to line up the holes of the forks with that of the shields. Oh, and it is quite normal to bang your head on the underside of the bathing platform!

Parts required:-
UJ bellows
Exhaust bellows
Ring anodes
Bar anodes
Plastic bushes for forks
o-ring for drain plug
o-ring for dip stick
fibre washer for filler plug
waterproof grease


Have fun
Eddie
 
[ QUOTE ]
At 60 kg, the sterndrives are heavy and awkward,

[/ QUOTE ]

I dont know where you got that figure from. I carried one down my steps and it was FAR heavier than that! more like 75/80 kilos. Although I am getting older!
 
Many thanks all especially Pendana for taking the time to write the process down. Will print it off and give it a go in the next week or so. I'm guessing a trolly jack is a good tool for taking the weight of the leg?

Didn't have the legs serviced last year so will replace all recommended parts.

Many thanks again.

Kevin. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hi Kevin,

Don't forget to let me know when your going for the service. I'd like to attend the procedure and learn from your mistakes before attempting my legs :-)

Cheers

Mark

[/ QUOTE ]

Hi Mark,

I know you've just replaced your props so a bit late but I've found a very cheap supplier of SS duo props. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Collecting two pairs Saturday morning /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I'll be 'trying' to service the legs maybe next weekend if I can get the parts and the weather is ok. Don't forget your overalls..
 
You should carry out the maintenance as detailed in the owners manual and at as close is reasonably possible the specified frequency. With a new to you boat which may not have previously been service in accordance with the maintenance schedule you should not omit anything. Do the lot!

If necessary download an owners manual from HERE
 
I have KAD300's with DP-G drives - will this method work for them?

If not, I would be grateful for a copy of service info for DP-G drives via PM, so as not to steal this post - apologies in advance to OP!
 
Just a postscript to the sterndrive servicing. It is important to get the positions of the screwheads of the jubilee clips in the right location otherwise damage to the bellows can occur.

The clips should always be tightened from the starboard side of the drive.

The UJ bellows clips should have the screwhead at the transom shield end at the 3 o’clock position and at the drive end at the 6 o’clock position.

The exhaust bellows clips should have the screwhead at the transom shield end at the 2 o’clock position and at the drive end at the 6 o’clock position.

The water hose clip should have the screwhead at the 2 o’clock position.

Eddie
 
Thanks for all input on this subject, did 140 hrs last season, so i guess its a bellows and oil service, anodes ok, of course engine will get new oil and filters/fuel filter. the rubber boot on drive looks good, no marks and flexes good but can you be to sure?! thanks nick
 
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