Leg in or Leg out

[Bigplumbs]

Being new to inboard boating and given that I am going to leave the boat on a swinging mooring for spring and summer I was wondering if it is better to leave the leg (Mercruiser Alfa 1) in the water (Down) or up out of the water (to some extent) when it is moored. I would prefer to leave it down as it will make getting on the boat from the tender easier. (Boat is a Fletcher 19 GTS with 3 ltr mercruiser raw water cooled)

I am sure I will get differing opinions.

Views please

Dennis

 

[[2068]]

If there is enough depth at all states of the tide, I would leave it down, to keep the tilt cylinder stem "inside" so it doesn't get fouled up and damage the seal when it goes back down.

If the boat sinks into the mud at low tide, I would leave it up.

With an inboard, you can't exactly lift much clear of the water anyway ... maybe the top of the plate and a bit of propeller will be above the water.

 

[Bigplumbs]

Thanks for that I should be getting an all states of the tide wet mooring so plenty of depth to keep it down

 

[sharpness]

...........you shake it all about. You do the hokey kokey and you turn around. That's what it's all about.

Sorry, I couldn't resist

 

[Bigplumbs]

...........you shake it all about. You do the hokey kokey and you turn around. That's what it's all about.

Sorry, I couldn't resist

I sort of asked for that ........................... Mind you it shows your age. Say that to someone 20 - 30 and I bet they will look at you like you are an idiot..... Happens to me all the time

Dennis

 

[jct1981]

Just in case you have them, also worth making sure your trim tabs are fully retracted as well; if extended they're susceptible to the same barnacle /growth problem as above,

James

 

[rafiki_]

...........you shake it all about. You do the hokey kokey and you turn around. That's what it's all about.

Sorry, I couldn't resist

������

 

[MapisM]

(Boat is a Fletcher 19 GTS with 3 ltr mercruiser raw water cooled)

Down is definitely the answer to your question, for all the good reasons already explained - including trim tabs (if any) all the way up!
But since you mention also that you've got the 3.0 raw water cooled engine (and the boat is normally in the water, otherwise you wouldn't post this thread, I suppose... ), you might wish to consider fitting a flush kit.
I can't give you the details or a link ATM, but I'm pretty sure that there's a simple kit which can be fitted somewhere along the route from the sea water pick-up on the leg and the block, and which is basically a 3-ways valve and a hose connection.
With this kit installed, before leaving the boat, you just attach a fresh water hose and run the engine for a while, job done.
Your engine will be grateful in the long run, not to mention the manifolds! :encouragement:

 

[Bigplumbs]

Down is definitely the answer to your question, for all the good reasons already explained - including trim tabs (if any) all the way up!
But since you mention also that you've got the 3.0 raw water cooled engine (and the boat is normally in the water, otherwise you wouldn't post this thread, I suppose... ), you might wish to consider fitting a flush kit.
I can't give you the details or a link ATM, but I'm pretty sure that there's a simple kit which can be fitted somewhere along the route from the sea water pick-up on the leg and the block, and which is basically a 3-ways valve and a hose connection.
With this kit installed, before leaving the boat, you just attach a fresh water hose and run the engine for a while, job done.
Your engine will be grateful in the long run, not to mention the manifolds! :encouragement:

Many thanks for this information.................. If only there were a hose pipe where I will be moored

Dennis

 

[capnjack]

Hi Dennis

Stern drives left fully up in the trailering position for long periods are pulling on all the bellows and stretching them out. They can develop a "set" and therefore when the leg is lowered the drive bellows might not compress properly and rub on the UJ's. The exhaust bellows is not a problem because it just directs exhaust to the prop hub for quiet running and if it distorts doesn't rub on anything and wont sink the boat. The drive bellows on the other hand keeps water out of the drive which has a hole in the transom and therefore let water in to sink the boat. There is a seal the other side of the Gimbal Bearing but its not water tight. A damaged drive bellows might not be noticed until you hear the Gimbal Bearing grumbling at which point salt water especially, has done its damage to the drive, gimbal housing, bearing etc. The shift cable bellows also keep water out and has a hole in the transom to let the cable through, if that leaks water can trickle in to the boat.
I've not had experience of this happening and I've always kept the drive in the down position, but it is a logical precaution to take.

 

[Bigplumbs]

Many thanks Capn........................... Don't like all those sink the boat reference !

Dennis

 

[RogerRat]

If only there were a hose pipe where I will be moored

Now wouldn't that be great to get a hose pipe out to a swinging mooring.

What's a Hokey Cokey ?

RR

 

[TheOrs]

I used to leave mine trimmed right up (because the boat dries out on big tides) but when I went to change the anode (on the anti-vent plate aft of the prop) I noticed that only half of it was eroded.

The other half was clear of the water when trimmed up and so wasn't protecting anything. Since then I keep it trimmed down slightly so that the anode is completely submerged.

Walking round the marina I see many boats with the leg raised and the anode completely clear of the water...