Leaking Volvo shaft seal

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dewatte

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The Volvo shaft seal on my McGruer 8 Tonner was replaced 3 years ago. Unfortunately it has never been serviced by greasing but has consistently been 'burped'. The engine has done about 120 hours since it was fitted. The seal has recently started leaking from the forward end - a steady drip with the engine off and a spray of water with the engine running. If the seal is squeezed or the prop shaft deflected a water flows in at a faster rate so it would seem impossible to get grease into the seal now with the boat afloat. Is there any repair possible with the boat in the water?
Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Dewatte
 
Symptoms suggest the lip seals are worn and the only solution is replacement of the whole seal. The lack of grease may have something to do with the wear, but it could be damage on the shaft. There are two seals in series so both must be damaged for it to leak. You could try greasing - it is not difficult - just fill a drinking straw with grease, flatten the end and push it down the gap between the shaft and seal. This gets the end past the lips so you can squirt the grease in.

If you are well organised and have good access you can replace afloat, but it means taking the gearbox coupling off and sliding the shaft back about 120mm which is not always possible, particularly if there is a rudder in the way or a rope cutter is fitted.
 
I have repacked traditional stern glands on the water several times but I would have to think hard before replacing a Volvo seal afloat. However, I have installed a P-bracket and new prop with the boat dried out between tides, a perfect option for those sailing in tidal UK.
 
When I replaced a Volvo seal afloat, I got a friendly diver to nip under the boat and pack plastic bags around the shaft. Very little oggin came in. Once the seal was fitted, a second dip removed the bags and Hey Presto! job done.

Preparation was the key.
 
Tranona said:
You could try greasing - it is not difficult - just fill a drinking straw with grease, flatten the end and push it down the gap between the shaft and seal. This gets the end past the lips so you can squirt the grease in.
Click to expand...

Great tip - I have tried to grease the seal without great success as you either cant get the grease in or damage the seal in the process.

@dewatte - sounds like the seal is knackered - i replaced mine and it isn't tricky, but I would do it out of the water unless you are super confident about sending your pride and joy to the bottom. I had to pull the shaft back some way to get access....
 
vyv_cox said:
I have repacked traditional stern glands on the water several times but I would have to think hard before replacing a Volvo seal afloat. However, I have installed a P-bracket and new prop with the boat dried out between tides, a perfect option for those sailing in tidal UK.
Click to expand...

I've done it several times.I make sure the prop is tied to a fitting on deck so the shaft doesn't slide out.After disconnecting the shaft from the flange it's a simple matter of pushing the shaft out a bit to remove the old seal (have a towel ready to wrap around the shaft if you need time) and push the new,greased seal in.Not a lot of water comes in.If there's no room between the gear box and shaft tube then the engine must be moved forward,not a big deal on my boat's 20 hp Beta.
 
dewatte said:
The Volvo shaft seal on my McGruer 8 Tonner was replaced 3 years ago. Unfortunately it has never been serviced by greasing but has consistently been 'burped'. The engine has done about 120 hours since it was fitted. The seal has recently started leaking from the forward end - a steady drip with the engine off and a spray of water with the engine running. If the seal is squeezed or the prop shaft deflected a water flows in at a faster rate so it would seem impossible to get grease into the seal now with the boat afloat. Is there any repair possible with the boat in the water?
Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Dewatte
Click to expand...

Another thought, how is the engine alignment? Could that be causing the seal to wear, especially as its worse when running. Have had similar, alignment plus new seal cracked it.

Good luck, however it turns out.
 
The volvo seal requires the labia like lip seals facing outwards away from the engine. If one of these inverts then they will dribble. VP supply a plastic fitting tool with a new seal, but one could be made with an suitable size aerosol cap, if you have that grease it and simply and gently push it in whilst rotating the shaft to set the lips into the correct position then draw it back out slowly. If it works a lot cheaper and simpler than a new seal. Water will enter when it is inserted.

These seals are also difficult to align so I used a decorators laser strapped to the output shaft coupling aimed to the centre of the taper section. If when rotated it describes a circle on the taper the shaft is centralised in the stern tube, if it describes an ellipse it is off centre.
 
capnsensible said:
Another thought, how is the engine alignment? Could that be causing the seal to wear, especially as its worse when running. Have had similar, alignment plus new seal cracked it.

Good luck, however it turns out.
Click to expand...

+1

My Owner Handbook advises that the alignment should be checked annually, as the rear engine bearers can squash with time.
 
Same comments as others. I have done one, but out of the water. But then on mine, to get clearance to get to coupler and shaft end, I needed to remove the prop (to clear the rudder) and the rope cutter to allow movement through the P bracket. On the seal I fitted, you got a special tool to slide it down the shaft and avoid any snagging or damage to the seal lips. After its sat in place, just grease it up as described. BTW, Tranona's straw method works really well, despite at first looking like you are never going to be able to force the grease through under the lip.
 
Ripster said:
Same comments as others. I have done one, but out of the water. But then on mine, to get clearance to get to coupler and shaft end, I needed to remove the prop (to clear the rudder) and the rope cutter to allow movement through the P bracket. On the seal I fitted, you got a special tool to slide it down the shaft and avoid any snagging or damage to the seal lips. After its sat in place, just grease it up as described. BTW, Tranona's straw method works really well, despite at first looking like you are never going to be able to force the grease through under the lip.
Click to expand...

Many thanks guys. for the good advice and the quick responses. Implemented the drinking straw greasing technique today with boat afloat on its mooring and water inlets open. Cost me £1.29 for a coffee in McDonalds to obtain the straw and £3.48 for a tube of Volvo grease. The seal wasn't leaking when I began but water came in as soon I started pushing the end of the straw between the seal and the prop. Then I felt the end of the straw go past the lip seal and I was able to pump in a full straw of grease. Hey presto, the leak stopped. Finished off by rotating the prop through a couple of turns to spread the grease.

The test will have to wait until the next cruise but it looks promising. Someone elsewhere suggested fixing a cable tie round the forward end of the seal as a temporary fix and I'll keep this in reserve. Can't replace the seal until layup ashore as I will probably have to remove the rudder to make room to pull the prop shaft back. When doing this it will also be a good idea to replace the cutlass bearing which is probably the original (1964). I will then get the engine alignment checked as a slight misalignment may have caused the seal to wear and leak.
Dewatte
 
Definitely do not put a clamp on it as it would compress the lips and probably restrict the important fore and aft movement of the shaft when you go in and out of gear. That would lead to overheating and wear- probably the shaft rather than the seals
 
I fitted a new seal recently and had to burp it every day for about 2 weeks before starting out. It seemed to resolve itself eventually .
 
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