Leaking raw water pump?

[shortjohnsilver]

VP 2040 MD running well. Recently I noted a little water accumulating beneath the engine, upon shutting down. This has been no more than a few drops and easily cleaned/soaked up with a piece of kitchen roll.

A week ago it had been necessary to use the engine for an extended passage - no wind whatsoever. Once sorted and berthed, engine shut down and upon checking, found quite a bit of salt water, pooled under the front of the engine, probably about a quarter cup full, this time, not a huge amount but there it was. Salt water not coolant.

Today, I had a close look at the raw water pump and had a good clean up and yes the raw water pump is green, exhibiting corrosion staining at its bottom between the impeller housing and the flange plate. The hoses too look old, with the hose clamps rusting somewhat.

Ran the engine which ran well. No overheating issues and with a good flow water leaving the exhaust as usual. Whilst running I had a very close look at the raw pump, expecting to see water dripping from the pump. Nothing. Not even a drip. I had placed kitchen towel beneath the engine and no drips at all.

I shut the engine down, but made the decision that the raw water pump needs to come off, checked and cleaned up.

I was about to shut the boat down and leave, when I thought, I’d have one last look at things. Yup, there was a small pool of sea water again.

Thinking about the volume of water, it appears that it could be consistent with that that would be retained in one of the hoses.

Could anyone tell me what’s happening, the cause of this and maybe reassure me that, upon removing the pump and replacement of the O ring (seal) that this will cure matters?

Thanks. Si.

 

[PetiteFleur]

The seal at the pump end needs renewing. From memory, when you remove and dismantle the pump, there is an oil seal at the engine end and another seal at the pump end. There is a drain hole between the two seals and it looks like you have a leak which is draining out through this hole. You can buy complete kits to repair the pump, replacing both seals and possibly the shaft. You can source these seals at a considerable cost saving by going to a bearing and seal supplier BUT make sure they have stainless steel springs in the seal.
This happened some time ago on my Beta 25 and because of time constraints I fitted a new pump(which was very reasonably priced) and repaired the old pump at my leisure and is now a spare. The only snag with DIY is that often the drive shaft has been badly scored so fitting new seals only works for a short time before leaking again and a new shaft would have to be fitted. Hope this helps.

 

[RichardS]

It seems clear that there is a slightly leak, possibly intermittent, in your pump or its hoses. It could be the pump shaft seal as these can be intermittent until they get beyond a certain point. You should be able to get it all dry with kitchen roll or whatever and then, possibly using a mirror, run the engine and watch carefully to see where the water is coming from. If it appears to be coming from somewhere indeterminate on the body of the pump it's probably coming from the a telltale/weep hole and it means that a new shaft seal/s is/are required.

Richard

 

[Ammonite]

Someone like simplybearings will sell you a couple of viton seals for a few quid and these come with a stainless spring. They also stock speedi sleeves which slide over any wear on the shaft. The are very thin and you use the same size seal as before. This is normally much cheaper than repairing the shaft and they are very simple to use.

 

[barclay]

I had the same problem on a MD2020 engine which I believe has same raw water pump. I replaced the outer seal behind the impeller and this solved the problem. Like Chaktoura says these can be had online for around £5 rather than the £20 charged by volvo. I used 12x24x7mm SKF Viton Oil Seal Double Lip R23/TC With Stainless Steel Spring
I also managed to replace the seal without removing the pump, after removing the impeller I was able to push the seal out using an old teaspoon with with the end 20mm bent to form a hook. I used this to push the seal out using the slots in the back of the pump that the water drips out. I also found that heating the body of the pump for a couple of minutes, with a hair dryer, and a bit of silicon grease on the shaft, helped the new seal slide into place. It on took about 15 minutes once I had figured it out, The shaft was worn but replacing just the seal fixed it, though I do like Chaktouras speedi sleeve solution if requred. Hope this helps

 

[SimonKNZ]

Has anyone replaced the Volvo original with one of the third-party replacements that are available (eg Volvo Penta D2-40 Raw Water Pump)?
Are they as good as the original?

 

[Jamie Dundee]

Has anyone replaced the Volvo original with one of the third-party replacements that are available (eg Volvo Penta D2-40 Raw Water Pump)?
Are they as good as the original?

I replaced the pump on my TAMD41 with one from Repower Marine. As far as I can tell it’s a refurbed Volvo pump, even the Speedseal impeller cover from my old pump fits. Raw Water Pumps - Cooling System - Parts for Volvo Penta Diesel - Volvo Penta Engines & Sterndrives

 

[shortjohnsilver]

Thanks everyone. I’ve taken the pump off today and now I’m not sure whether to get a puller and remove the wheel and extract the shaft, so as to replace all the bearings etc or replace the outer seal - as per barclay’s suggestion that’s behind the impeller.
But if I’m going to the trouble to extract the shaft then I may as well replace it right?
Or am I overthinking this and really should follow what barclay did?
Marine parts Europe are expensive and show the shaft is out of production anyway. Anyone know where I might be able to buy a repair kit that includes the shaft as well as the bearings etc and rebuild.

Jamie Dundee when you replaced with the Repower Marine water pump was that to a VP 2040 D?

Learning a lot though, thanks

 

[Jamie Dundee]

Jamie Dundee when you replaced with the Repower Marine water pump was that to a VP 2040 D?

Learning a lot though, thanks

No, I was just replying to Simon KNZ re aftermarket pumps. As you now have the pump off you might as well replace the shaft, bearings and seals. Job done then for a few years

 

[RichardS]

Thanks everyone. I’ve taken the pump off today and now I’m not sure whether to get a puller and remove the wheel and extract the shaft, so as to replace all the bearings etc or replace the outer seal - as per barclay’s suggestion that’s behind the impeller.
But if I’m going to the trouble to extract the shaft then I may as well replace it right?
Or am I overthinking this and really should follow what barclay did?
Marine parts Europe are expensive and show the shaft is out of production anyway. Anyone know where I might be able to buy a repair kit that includes the shaft as well as the bearings etc and rebuild.

Jamie Dundee when you replaced with the Repower Marine water pump was that to a VP 2040 D?

Learning a lot though, thanks

The shaft might well be quite expensive so I wouldn't replace it but would check it. Even if it's badly grooved you could probably repair it with a speedi-sleeve for a few Pounds, but even that might not be necessary.

If you are prepared to remove the shaft, then I would change the bearings and seal whilst you're at it. However, if you don't feel ready for that and the shaft spins smoothly with no graunchiness or play and it's not badly scored, then you could just change the seal for a few pence.

Richard

 

[shortjohnsilver]

Okay thanks. So, get the gear wheel off and spin the shaft and feel for ‘graunchiness’ and any sideways movement other than good smooth spin. If good replace the outer seal. If doubtful then extract shaft and replace bearings and replace.
Should there be excessive scoring on the shaft then look at speedi sleeve. Simply bearings
I have found a kit that includes a shaft and most of the bearings excluding the outer seal and o ring, but as you say not cheap. FYB marine parts at around £80.
The outer seal contains the stainless steel spring is that right. Also simply bearings
Cheers Ricahrd

 

[RichardS]

Okay thanks. So, get the gear wheel off and spin the shaft and feel for ‘graunchiness’ and any sideways movement other than good smooth spin. If good replace the outer seal. If doubtful then extract shaft and replace bearings and replace.
Should there be excessive scoring on the shaft then look at speedi sleeve. Simply bearings
I have found a kit that includes a shaft and most of the bearings excluding the outer seal and o ring, but as you say not cheap. FYB marine parts at around £80.
The outer seal contains the stainless steel spring is that right. Also simply bearings
Cheers Ricahrd

If there are two seals they are probably the same so best to get stainless springs for both if possible. Certainly the one with the spring facing towards the impeller must be stainless.

Richard

 

[stu9000]

I had the same issue . Its a vp2003 but may well be similar

 

[sailaboutvic]

Really good answers by people who done the job before , well done guys I can think add any thing

 

[barclay]

Okay thanks. So, get the gear wheel off and spin the shaft and feel for ‘graunchiness’ and any sideways movement other than good smooth spin. If good replace the outer seal. If doubtful then extract shaft and replace bearings and replace.
Should there be excessive scoring on the shaft then look at speedi sleeve. Simply bearings
I have found a kit that includes a shaft and most of the bearings excluding the outer seal and o ring, but as you say not cheap. FYB marine parts at around £80.
The outer seal contains the stainless steel spring is that right. Also simply bearings
Cheers Ricahrd

Both seals are the same and have stainless steel springs, or at least the ones I posted the link to earlier do.