leaking cylinder head? volvo penta 2002

[ChattingLil]

In the cylinder head, the injector slides into the head . There seems to be a sleeve pushed into the head where the injector sits. Water is beading/leaking from a tiny seam betwen thw cast cylinder head and the fuel injector sleeve.

Am I right in thinking that in manufacure a machined sleeve is pushed ito the cylinder head?

If so, is it possible to push out leaky one and replace?

Am on boat now and sending message by g1 phone so forgive brevity.

Thanks
Lisa

 

[VicS]

That's right there is a sleeve (copper I think)

It can be pulled out with a special tool and a new one inserted with another tool.

It has an O ring seal at the top but the bottom end has to be flared out with yet another special tool.
finally adjust the length of the sleeve outside the plane of the cylinder head to maximum of 1 mm

So can be changed without removing the head it seems.

But I have found several different part numbers for the sleeve!

If you have a freshwater cooled engine try some radiator leak sealant in the cooling system. There a good chance that will seal it up, (I use it in the car cooling system as matter of course) I guess its not going to fail catastrophically any way

See http://www.bluemoment.com/downloads.html for a workshop manual.

 

[wotayottie]

Lisa

Its a pretty routine issue and any Volvo agent will do the job for you. I removed the cylinder head myself (easy) and took it to the agent in Portsmouth. makes sense to get the valves ground in at the same time and to change the valve oil seals.

Wouldnt give much for your chances of getting a leak sealer to woork since they arent designed for sea water cooled engines.

 

[alf1]

I think you will find that the copper insert has to be filed flushed with the head.I found the sleeve extremly tight.My engine was raw water cooled and the inside was very corroded and some bits of the casting had broken off.

 

[Bilgediver]

That's right there is a sleeve (copper I think)

It can be pulled out with a special tool and a new one inserted with another tool.

It has an O ring seal at the top but the bottom end has to be flared out with yet another special tool.
finally adjust the length of the sleeve outside the plane of the cylinder head to maximum of 1 mm

So can be changed without removing the head it seems.

But I have found several different part numbers for the sleeve!

If you have a freshwater cooled engine try some radiator leak sealant in the cooling system. There a good chance that will seal it up, (I use it in the car cooling system as matter of course) I guess its not going to fail catastrophically any way

See http://www.bluemoment.com/downloads.html for a workshop manual.

Vic....

It is not really wise to fit the new sleeve in place as you can not trim the internal face which has quite a bit of green material to remove. Moreover the lower land of the sleeve has to be expanded into place and I doubt if the OP has a tube expander on board though possibly a nice smile in a local workshop might produce one.

I ahgree the minor leak is really only a nuisance though if it was started by some over enthusiastic injector removal then the lower land may also be leaking into the cylinder.

Best to get the head off in the near future and do it properly also pressure testing to ensure a good job.

 

[VicS]

Oh its the bottom end that has to be trimmed! It was not clear from the manual. "Outside" suggested outside to me not inside!
Realise it had to be expanded, hence the special tool. They call it flared in the manual but the diagram shows it fitting in from the top.

Not really suggesting it was a DIY job ... too many special tools unless you can borrow them ..... but the link to the manual given for info.

The OP did not say whether it is directly or indirectly cooled. If its indirectly cooled the leak sealer will probably work. Been stopping a leak on my car radiator for years with it.

 

[Bilgediver]

Oh its the bottom end that has to be trimmed! It was not clear from the manual. "Outside" suggested outside to me not inside!
Realise it had to be expanded, hence the special tool. They call it flared in the manual but the diagram shows it fitting in from the top.

Not really suggesting it was a DIY job ... too many special tools unless you can borrow them ..... but the link to the manual given for info.

The OP did not say whether it is directly or indirectly cooled. If its indirectly cooled the leak sealer will probably work. Been stopping a leak on my car radiator for years with it.

The tube is supplied in a machined state however it sits at an angle to the inner surface of the cylinder head so once hardened down it has to be trimmed to make the end the same angle as the head with a lip of about 1mm.

In view of the above there can be problems if the tube has turned out of position.

They can be a pain however the correct procedure for removing a stuck injector is to jack against the tube end but who has a jack when it is needed.

I try and make a point of taking the injectors out annually and just cleaning the end and replacing with an ample coating of copper slip which keeps them free.