Laser dinghy repair...can you get m3 5200 in the UK?

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firstascent2002

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I have bought a laser today and on getting it home found that there is a split between the hull and the deck on the port side. Only about 6 inches.

The Web advice on an old boat seems to be to grind out the small affected area and fix with M3 5200. The only UK supply I can find is whole box of tubes in ebay!

Is there a UK option?

Jamie
 
Personally I would use West or SP/Gurit epoxy.
3M 5200 is a polyurethane sealant/adhesive.

The epoxy will run into the crack, particularly if you warm it gently with a hot air gun.
Where the crack is a gap, add some filler powder to the epoxy and fill the gap.

At a pinch, for a bargain boat, araldite ( or cheap 2 tube epoxy) will do, warming still helps.

If there is a void where the manufacturers hull-deck bonding paste has fallen out or comes out when you clean out the loose stuff, I would probably stuff some chopped glass cloth or tape in there with epoxy.
Note, ordinary glass mat is not right for epoxy, it depends on the styrene in polyester resin to dissolve the binder.

Obviously, it is possible to end up with epoxy just running into the hull is the gap is big and the epoxy is runny, add filler powder to prevent this.
clamping the gunnel with some of the more vicious spring clamps may help.

Put parcel tape on the surrounding hull + deck as a barrier.
Wear polythene gloves.
 
I am a little in awe of 11k posts....well done you and thanks

I have just had a massive clear out and all my old expoy has gone. As my Hustler is no more I really dont want to buy another two big tubs of west systems...but I had not thought of araldite...If I dremel out a groove and heat the araldite till it's runny maybe I'll get away with a cheap repair. This boat is in fair condition for the age but as an early 1980's boat I never felt it would be very fast!

Jamie
 
I used csm with epoxy and it worked ok. Clamp either end of the crack to stop it spreading any further when you clean out the joint. I used a vacuum cleaner on the drain plug to suck the epoxy well into the crack. Clamp it but not too tight or it will be narrower than the existing joint.
 
There's certainly no reason not to use 3m's 5200 if that's what the repair schedule calls for. If you get a gun cartridge you will be able to inject it into any gaps and cracks.

Just don't get too hung up on the brand. Any polyurethane sealant/adhesive will be fine. Sikaflex do one, but this one is the same thing at a fraction of the price.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adh...e+PU40+Sealant+310ml+White/d180/sd2350/p67949

The secret with these things is that it's easier not to make a mess, than it is to clean it up afterwards! Be warned, this stuff is stickier than sticky stuff that's been allowed to become really, really sticky.

Wear surgical gloves (contains isocyanates). Tape off anywhere that you want to keep clean and make sure you know how to stop the tube spurting out sealant before you start. Certainly with 5200, a rag with copious quantities of white spirit will get it off, but experiment with the brand you get before making a mess!

Have fun.
 
There are a number of sealant adhesives (many much cheaper and some better than Sika 295 I think is the equivalent of 5200)

Having just done a laser joint (twice) with some left over west, it's worth seeing if moistuire has got between the joint as it will just open up nest to your repair if you don't go all the way to where it is sound and dry. I ended up levering the joint apart with the boat upside down holding it open with wedges and filling the gap before taking out the wedges. It's now water tight. Also take a look at where the trolley sits under the gunwale as it is often worn thin here and needs reinforcing.

Whilst you're glueing stuff have a good look at the bottom of the mast socket, they wear and then separate from the hull, if you have an access hatch at the front of the cockpit you can repair at arms length quite easily.
 
I believe Sika 292 is equivalent. However its not cheap so I'd be tempted to follow TimBennets advice for a 1980s laser.
 
Araldite is an epoxy and will be fine.

Just add some fibreglass but cut very fine and mix with the Araldite, also rather put hot Araldite onto a cold surface, heat up the area to be treated with a hair dryer or heat gun.

Good luck and fair winds. :)

PS. Both my sons leaned to sail in my old Mirror and one turned out to be a live aboard years later.
 
Old boats can be quite quick in Plymouth there are a few 70xxx boats (mine 70591) that have made it into the top 10 in fleets of up to 70 boats. Some still have wooden tillers, many don't have the XP pack.

Get a new sail, for club racing these are good at only £90,00 and there is no reason why you can't get tp the front, or near it.


http://www.intensitysails.com/prsaforla.html
 
If it's a crack the first thing you need to do is drill holes at each end of the crack to stop it from creeping any further. Then fill it with some epoxy. Go and see a boat builder armed with a few clean jam jars or similar and ask if you can buy a bit of epoxy resin, hardener and glass balls or similar filling powder. They have big drums full of the stuff. I get my small quantity epoxy supplies from a boat building acquaintance. He'll fill up a 2 pint plastic milk bottle with epoxy, give me hardener and fillers all in exchange for just a pint in the local. He buys it in in such large quantities at trade prices, so a small tub full works out at peenuts, compared to when you buy the same quantity at your local boating toy shop and pay through the nose! Every boat owner should make it a priority to get pally with at least one boat builder. They also dispense great advice!
 
Neil_Y said:
Old boats can be quite quick in Plymouth there are a few 70xxx boats (mine 70591) that have made it into the top 10 in fleets of up to 70 boats. Some still have wooden tillers, many don't have the XP pack.

Get a new sail, for club racing these are good at only £90,00 and there is no reason why you can't get tp the front, or near it.


http://www.intensitysails.com/prsaforla.html
Click to expand...

Ah the Laser with full sized rig. Now there is a treacherous little boat for you.It will capsize to windward or leeward. If you are buying a new sail don't do so before you know if you want a full rig or one of the smaller (radial) rigs. Speaking of lasers I got involved with the world sailing championships just 12months ago in Fremantle. The Australian dealer provided (leased) new boats for the laser class. 180 of full and radial rig. I helped fit trackers to the masts. A big warehouse with lasers each on a trolley seemed as far as the eye could see. I don't know (doubt) if he has sold all the new ones since. Incidentally he supplied 50 spare masts to give you an idea of mast damage expectations. good luck with the old laser olewill
 
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