Lanolin Application.....

[AIDY]

I used lanolin for the first time last year on the saildrive and prop with great sucess. The lanolin i bought was from my local chandary and is more like a wax than a cream, and application was hard to spread in it's solid form, it was very messy and lumpy in places.

I was wondering if it would be a good idea to melt the wax down to a liquid this year and apply with a paint brush. what are your thoughts ?

Do you have any tips on how to apply lanolin in a wax form ?

<font color="red"> Happy Xmas </font>

 

[malcp]

I have used lanolin on my prop for 3 or 4 years now. I use a heat gun, both to soften the grease in the pot and also the prop. Much easier, and it flows nicely. Don't use a paint brush but gloved hand.

 

[AIDY]

Thanx that a good idea to warm the prop up. not though of that especially this time of year.
<font color="red"> Happy Xmas </font>

 

[npf1]

Bruntons recommended warming the prop with a hairdyer before applying the lanolin.

 

[MarkV]

Forgive my ignorance

but why use lanolin on a prop?

 

[Viking]

Re: Lanolin Application.....Tried Olive Oil???

They use simple olive oil over here on their props!!!

 

[oldharry]

Re: Forgive my ignorance

Said to stop any fouling growth on the prop.

Wonder if it works on the hull as well...?

 

[AIDY]

Thats lucky I bought a hairdryer for the wife for xmas !

 

[Chris_Robb]

To protect the prop successfully from weed etc -

1. The finish on the prop must be Very good - wet and dry - then finishing compound

2. Using a blow lamp place lumps of Lanolin on the prop and heat and spread - till all is nicely covered.

Seems to be more effective each year - perhaps the effect are cumulative as the grease is absorbed into the surface of the prop? Waste of time though if you don't prepare a good surface on the prop

Happy Christmas

 

[charles_reed]

I suspect the polishing has more to do with the lack of fouling than the application of the lanolin.

Equally enthusiastic recommendations have been made in the past for variously, zinc & castor-oil ointment, grate blacking and teflon spray.

I'd suggest using even 1600 wet-dry is an error of judgement and will militate against the morror finish required.

I use a 3M (that's Minnesota Mining & Manufacturing) finishing pad as used industrially for finishing mirror-finish brass, steel etc.
You don't even need to finish with metal-polish if you use that.

 

[scuby]

You could use Lanacote liquid or, assuming you are using genuine lanolin, thin it down with white spirits and paint it on.

 

[Stemar]

I'd be leery of heating the prop on its shaft. I reckon there's a risk it'll expand so it's not so tight on the shaft then get pushed up the taper by the nut. Do that a few times and getting it off later could prove rather entertaining, at least for those onlookers with a taste for shadenfreud...

 

[ex-Gladys]

I used an ordinary hot air gun. The heat in the shaft is minimal, the point is to get the Lanacote to melt and then reharden, because it is much harder once rehardened.