Kiwiprop woes!

Well, I had a look at the prop today and it turned OK and the blades appeared to twist, but still not happy with the thing!





Decided I would rather have a reverse gear that I can actually depend on, and then may try this prop again in a year or so?

Do you know when this propeller was serviced?
There are some moving parts that need greasing.
The fact that the blades pivot on their own axis is no proof that other parts are moving as they should.
Have seen the user manual?
 
If you have not sorted your prop yet, then, see my earlier post. The size and taper are standard Imperial measurements, so will not be difficult to get a prop off the shelf.

As suggested by myself and other, Sillette or Lake Engineering (who are actually the same company) are usually the most competitive. Just give them your boat details - displacement waterline length, engine power and revs and reduction ratio.
 
From your photo it appears that one blade is quite damaged on the leading edge otherwise it looks OK but as others have said they need servicing to perform properly. You shouldn't have an issue with an engine of 50hp! I find the thrust in reverse is more than with the old fixed 3 blade.
 
Ok, been looking at normal props so what hand is the prop shaft of a Moody 376 for the prop to be machined?

A 15" x 9" 3 blade fixed prop has been suggested by lakeside marine, does that sound about correct?

Regards
 
I had a Kiwi prop and it was brilliant but high maintenance and for that reason alone I replaced it. I found that I needed to grease it twice a year to keep the reverse working and the first tie you find our that it isn't is when you try to stop the boat from hitting a deck!

To grease the Kiwi Prop you need to get a grease gun with a needle point as there are small grease holes which you have to inject with grease until it oozes out.

I bough a Felxofold 2 blade prop and it is maintenance free and I won't catch a pot with it when under sail... but the Kiwi Prop is the ultimate in smoothness because it has virtually no mass in the blades, SWIMBO would have kept it in hind sight, I would not.
 
Just realised I put the wrong astern gearbox ratio in the first post...it should be 1.79:1.

Argh! I queried that at the beginning.
In that case although the ratios are not ideal you should certainly be able to make it work acceptably with the measures suggested by FullCircle and others.
It's vital that the blades flip without resistance, the reversing rollers rotate freely (watch out for bent screws) and the hub rotates against the spring without sticking or graunching.
It does look a bit neglected in your photos and a blade needs replacing.
If it's a 16" (identified by two moulded dots on the blade trailing edge near the tip) I have got 2 spare blades available in good useable condition.
 
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