Putting together an itinerary for a week in June, and have a gap. Has anyone been to Kalamos? Worth a night's stay? Not looking for anything much, just a few tavernas and an easy mooring.
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Putting together an itinerary for a week in June, and have a gap. Has anyone been to Kalamos? Worth a night's stay? Not looking ofr anything much, just a few tavernas and an easy mooring.
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I liked Port Leone, which was a bit different. Not a remote anchorage, but not really a town either although there is a restaurant.
I was there in October a few years ago and liked it very much. Just a few tavernas and a decent harbour as you say although I suspect it'll be a bit busier in June.
When we go out, Kalamos is one of our favourites. It's a very basic village with a very easy atmosphere, but something about it just keeps us going back. Normally we've been stern-to on the harbour wall. If the wind gets up in the evenings it can swing the entire line of yachts on the harbour wall, and the holding isn't the best so you may need to play with stern fenders and keep an eye on the anchor chain until it dies down again.
The bakery up the hill is worth the walk, not just for the fresh bread but for the views as you come back down.
Very nice place, run by George, who seems to own nearly everything. Acts as harbourmaster, will assist you to berth and welcome you, but there is a sort of understanding, at least by him, that you will eat in his restaurant and buy from his shop. The latter is well worth seeing, like something out of the 1930s.
Get there mid-afternoon if you can. It fills up considerably in the evening, when there can sometimes be four flotillas in.
Never seen any berthing problems, other than crossed anchors, which happens every day. Bottom is very solid mud and shelter is usually excellent. You can't go stern-to at the outer end of the breakwater due to submerged rocks, but no problems elsewhere.
We went to Kalamos in July last year, stopped at Port Leone, but it was too windy so we went on to Kalamos Port - very easy approach, plenty of space (we moored stern to on the breakwater).
Small village, quiet, good tavernas. The first one at the inner end of the breakwater has showers.
Our favourite place for a peaceful stay.(however, timing is important as its on the flotilla itineraries)
If you go to the (pebbly) beach just S. of the village for a swim be careful - lots of sea urchins!
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Never seen any berthing problems, other than crossed anchors, which happens every day. Bottom is very solid mud and shelter is usually excellent.
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Wow, maybe I wasn't in Kalamos then..... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Every year we've been (late June/early July) there has been a vicious evening wind that has caused everyone some grief and detached several anchors from the bottom. Flotilla lead crews have spent a good few hours scooting round in dinghies re-laying their flock's hooks. Those on the breakwater had a particularly uncomfortable few hours. As with all things Ionian though, at about 10pm it was like flicking a switch - the wind died and the place was transformed.
Kalamos does get very crowded when a flotilla comes in; otherwise it's delightful.
So, if you have evidence that an invasion is due, bail out for a 3 mile journey around teh east of the island, then north a jot to Mytikas. Extract from my web site follows: [ QUOTE ]
Mytikas (6/10) A holiday resort for Greeks on the mainland, just opposite Kalamos. The town invested in a bypass to remove traffic, and now has a very pleasant high street. The harbour is dredged to 3m with good quays all round, and a further basin is being built just west (watch out - Oct 2007 the new quays were awash!). The flotillas haven't yet discovered this place . . . though some live-aboards winter afloat here. Koxili, a hotel/restaurant/café just 100m west of the old harbour, is worth a special journey. Linen table cloths, wide menu, good food, and only average prices for the area. Spoil yourself - but book ahead in high season, tel/fax: 26460-81356.
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And if you like the unspoilt flavour of Greece, consider Astakos, though it's not always easy to find a berth if lots of the big fishing boats are in. They don't mind you going alongside them - as long as you don't mind getting up at 4am!
I'd agree with the other posts, Kalamos is very nice, and George and his wife will look after you well, both in mooring up and in their taverna. The walk up to the church at the top is also worth the view. There is also an amusing shop called Boom which sells "Kava Dried Fruits and Sugariness Products". The friendly lady there sells those lovely Greek cookies covered in icing sugar, which may be what the "sugariness products" are!
Kastos is also nice, as is Polis on Ithaca. Walk up from the anchorage in Polis to the village of Stavros, and try the Polyphemus Garden Restaurant, http://polifimos.com/indexen.php which is a fabulous and very unique little haven, where Monica, who seems to speak several languages fluently will make you feel very welcome and serve you a fantastic meal.
I had a laugh when I looked at the photo above. Imagine the same scene with boats on every berth, rafted three deep in several places, and you'll know how it was last July. Our friends came in 15 mins. after us and had to berth on the harbour entrance!
You can dinghy out of the harbour and go NE along the coast for five minutes and come to some beautiful totally deserted beaches - ideal for a BBQ and a swim.
We didn't find the food all that good at George's, but if you walk up the hill,turn left and go down again to the Mill to the South (10 mins), you come to a bay with a small restaurant with tables on the stones. You can watch the sunset, and the food is very simple but superb.
Oh, and if you want water, you have to be quick, as you can only get it during the times the ferry's not there, and as soon as you get the hose onboard it reappears, hooting loudly!
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Walk up from the anchorage in Polis to the village of Stavros
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I live quite close to Pollis, unfortunately the taverna at Pollis seems to have lost its food licence, the kitchen was being demolished last October (someone had complained from Stavros) the Taverna is still open but, the wonderfull cheap meals of fresh seafood maybe a thing of the past. I wont know till the end of the month, it will be a great shame to the many who knew about it.
Thankyou all for your input - invaluable as always. I think I'll head for Kalamos and keep Mytikas as a fallback should Kalamos turn out to be packed to the rafters.
Is there an easy way to map the likely movements of flotillas (other than trawling through all the charter company websites)?
<<< Is there an easy way to map the likely movements of flotillas (other than trawling through all the charter company websites)? >>>
No, I don't think there is. I can't speak for all of them but I know that Sailing Holidays and Nielsen flotilla leaders are in constant communication with their offices and change their destination if weather is bad, or for other reasons. One time I was in Kalamos we suffered horrendous thunderstorms and SH boats remained for two nights, then dashed for a safer haven then the plan suggested.
On a night in Lakka last year there were five flotillas in town, some on the quays but others anchored in circles. Next night there were none.
Yeah, it's handy to have such a table, but still good to ask around because there are several large operators in the area, of varying nationalities, so you'll never pin 'em all down.
And of course, if the wind gets up, many flotillas will shorten their trip or even stay where they are.
I agree, I've been to Kalamos on flot (but as we're bareboat this year I'll probably avoid it) for the last few years.
Georges Taverna is ok, it's expanded a lot in the last 2 years.
The katabatic blows through there in the late afternoon/eve and can be a problem. Anchors drag, boats wobble about all over the shop.
Plus, I don't think it particularly pretty, there is a little beach over the wall from the Taverna, but last time I was there it was full of rubbish and dirty nappies (lovely!).