Kad44 strange actuator problem

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Pepemundo

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Hey guys,
New at this forum and currently very frustrated so appreciate all help i can get! I just changed boats and got a Windy 37 Grand Mistral with twin kad44 engines. The boat is in great condition and so are the engines, or at least so i thought....

After about a week of very light use I suddenly got a fault code on the port engine. At first the code was 3.4, but it has then moved around between 1.5, 5.4 and 3.4. The first thing we thought wrong was the actuator, so i borrowed a new actuator from a friend, this didn’t help (but fault code jumped). Then i tried the gear cable, it seemed a little stuck so we lifted the boat to change it. It turned out there was something stuck in the gear which was an easy fix (might have been the root of the original problem).

So, back in the water with the boat. Still the same fault codes, with both actuators (even without the cable attached). We now started to suspect that the stuck gear messed up the first actuator and that the other one, although new, had some initial fault. So, we think the best cause of action is to try the starboard actuator, that we actually know is working, on the port side. We switch it, but, - still the same fault codes. We switch it back again, and now the actuator won’t work on the starboard side either, but instead gives me the 1.5 fault code - so, now i have two engines not working. The fault codes refuse to reset, so i cannot calibrate the gears.

Sorry for long message, but sun is shining here in Stockholm, and summer is short, so i hope tomorrow is my last day in the engine room and that i can then head out in the archepelago! Thankful for any ideas and solutions.

Cheers

Cheers
 
Sorry to here of your dilemma, I am in Smøgen so don’t have all my Volvo data with me, but I am wondering if your fault may be elsewhere, it could be the potentiometer or neutral switch in the throttle quadrant, these do fail and give weird shifting faults as the ECU is no longer sure where neutral is so plays safe. Check the harness at the back of the quadrant,these should be supported and not left hanging as this also can give a bad connection at the potentiometer.
 
I can't add much to the advice above other than advise that the Bosch potentiometers are only about £20 so worth a try.

Bosch 0280122001

Incidentally, I see that the micro switch in the throttle housing is no longer available. What do you do if one fails (bypass it)?
 
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Pepemundo said:
Hey guys,
New at this forum and currently very frustrated so appreciate all help i can get! I just changed boats and got a Windy 37 Grand Mistral with twin kad44 engines. The boat is in great condition and so are the engines, or at least so i thought....

After about a week of very light use I suddenly got a fault code on the port engine. At first the code was 3.4, but it has then moved around between 1.5, 5.4 and 3.4. The first thing we thought wrong was the actuator, so i borrowed a new actuator from a friend, this didn’t help (but fault code jumped). Then i tried the gear cable, it seemed a little stuck so we lifted the boat to change it. It turned out there was something stuck in the gear which was an easy fix (might have been the root of the original problem).

So, back in the water with the boat. Still the same fault codes, with both actuators (even without the cable attached). We now started to suspect that the stuck gear messed up the first actuator and that the other one, although new, had some initial fault. So, we think the best cause of action is to try the starboard actuator, that we actually know is working, on the port side. We switch it, but, - still the same fault codes. We switch it back again, and now the actuator won’t work on the starboard side either, but instead gives me the 1.5 fault code - so, now i have two engines not working. The fault codes refuse to reset, so i cannot calibrate the gears.

Sorry for long message, but sun is shining here in Stockholm, and summer is short, so i hope tomorrow is my last day in the engine room and that i can then head out in the archepelago! Thankful for any ideas and solutions.

Cheers

Cheers
Click to expand...

You wil, probably find you had all these codes stored but you didn’t keep pressing the D button after reading the first code .

KAD 44 was the Guinea pig , I’ve had them with ghost fault codes when the battery voltage is low on cranking , that’s why the 300 has the dc dc converter .
Try cleaning the EDC input cables from the batteries , it’s 2 terminals located under the starter motor area , I had endless trouble with one , bypassed the plastic junction box .

I’ll look up the codes and get back here later
 
petem said:
I can't add much to the advice above other than advise that the Bosch potentiometers are only about £20 so worth a try.

Bosch 0280122001

Incidentally, I see that the micro switch in the throttle housing is no longer available. What do you do if one fails (bypass it)?
Click to expand...

Sorry to hijack the thread, but for clarity....

Is the Bosch part the part that selects F N R (and throttle level?), and the micro-switch to tell to not start when in gear?
 
alt said:
Sorry to hijack the thread, but for clarity....

Is the Bosch part the part that selects F N R (and throttle level?), and the micro-switch to tell to not start when in gear?
Click to expand...

Yes and Yes*.

You can see the potentiometer here - https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7738870-27-7461.aspx. They're also called "Throttle Position Sensors".

* I think Paul said that the microswitch isn't always fitted to sterndrive boats. Which begs the question how does the EDC know that it's in neutral? Is there another microswitch in the actuator (parts diagram doesn't show one - https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7738870-27-3455.aspx)?) or does it know that the potentiometer is in the neutral position?

Pete
 
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Just checked what your fail codes are,
1.5 Control module can’t identify control system.
3.4 Short circuit in the actuator, or it can’t adopt the correct position due to mechanical binding.
6.4 Short/open circuit on the cable to the actuator.

This might shed a bit more light on where your troubles lie.
 
Hey guys, thank you so much for tips. Have not been able to solve things yet. The mechanic helping me, wanted to check for short circuits in the cablage wich he thought was the problem, we have found nothing yet. I will check the throttle and try and get the Bosh potentiometer asap. Cleaning the input cables will be first thing tomorrow. Tried to check and meassure as many connections as possible, but sure i missed some.

Ended the day with giving up, disconnecting the actuator, putting in fwd gear on the port engine and heading out to Sandhamn in Stockholm archipelago, guess work starts again tomorrow morning, but for now some friday relaxation.

Cheers
 
spannerman said:
Just checked what your fail codes are,
1.5 Control module can’t identify control system.
3.4 Short circuit in the actuator, or it can’t adopt the correct position due to mechanical binding.
6.4 Short/open circuit on the cable to the actuator.

This might shed a bit more light on where your troubles lie.
Click to expand...

Simple , in a nutshell a shift actuator problem due to stiff worn cables overload in current to allow shift in either direction.
Fit a new cable .
 
petem said:
Yes and Yes*.

You can see the potentiometer here - https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7738870-27-7461.aspx. They're also called "Throttle Position Sensors".

* I think Paul said that the microswitch isn't always fitted to sterndrive boats. Which begs the question how does the EDC know that it's in neutral? Is there another microswitch in the actuator (parts diagram doesn't show one - https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7738870-27-3455.aspx)?) or does it know that the potentiometer is in the neutral position?

Pete
Click to expand...
Kad 44 stern drive neutral switch inside actuator to show true neutral position of cable
Shaft drive version on helm control from lever position.
 
Thank you for this. Can i just clarify so i understand you correctly? Do you mean the shift cable? Beacause i checked that and it runs smothly, also i get the same fault codes even with the cable dismounted (and thus without any preassure on the actuator). Or is there another cable i should change? Still confused by this thing…
 
Pepemundo said:
Thank you for this. Can i just clarify so i understand you correctly? Do you mean the shift cable? Beacause i checked that and it runs smothly, also i get the same fault codes even with the cable dismounted (and thus without any preassure on the actuator). Or is there another cable i should change? Still confused by this thing…
Click to expand...

Hi, o have the same fault on my superhawk 34 with the same engines, did you manage to fix yours?? What was the fault??

Appreciate your thoughts ?
 
Pepemundo said:
Thank you for this. Can i just clarify so i understand you correctly? Do you mean the shift cable? Beacause i checked that and it runs smothly, also i get the same fault codes even with the cable dismounted (and thus without any preassure on the actuator). Or is there another cable i should change? Still confused by this thing…
Click to expand...

Sounds like the shift actuator has a failed neutral switch .
Can you see the green led when you turn the ignition on , if so does it go out when you select ahead or astern ?
 
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