Kad32 with DP290 sterndrive... tasks that can only be done out of the water

oGaryo

oGaryo

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Bizzy Bee is on the hard for her annual maintenance but I need to get her back in asap so want to concentrate on those things that can only be done out of the water, leaving the other work until she's back in her home berth. Are there any engine bay annual maintenance tasks that can only be done / checked when on the hard? In particular, I've not checked the status of the raw cooling waterways since owning the boat so intend to give the internals a look over this year along with a coolant change on the fresh water side, for example, can the heat exchanger be checked / cleaned with the boat in the water?

I am intending on doing the following on the hard:

  • sterndirve maintenance
  • antifoul
  • polish
  • seacock maintenance
  • fit thru hull transducuer

Should I add anything else to the list?

Cheers Gary
 
I may be wrong about this, but the oil coolers are very low down in the engine bay, so if you wanted to disconnect them and check the state of the insides it might be a job for when the boat is out if the water. I'm sure someone will confirm this if it is the case.
 
neale said:
I may be wrong about this, but the oil coolers are very low down in the engine bay, so if you wanted to disconnect them and check the state of the insides it might be a job for when the boat is out if the water. I'm sure someone will confirm this if it is the case.
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thank you, that's the sort of thing I also thinking of, anything on the raw water side of things that's below the waterline. I'll check out the manuals for other things like the Charge Air Cooler too. this is what the manual says in regards to the Oil Cooler

The engine oil cooler is of the tubular type and is located on the right hand side under the heat exchanger. The oil circulates between the tubes while seawater passes through the tubes.
Click to expand...
 
All the coolers can be removed, stripped and cleaned if need be while the boats in the water.

If your running at 200f or about at wot then they may be getting blocked. Ask your engineer for his advise.

I told you two years ago I can supply aftermarket filters from stock, if you remember your thread about this last year.

If your not running hot then leave well alone.
 
volvopaul said:
All the coolers can be removed, stripped and cleaned if need be while the boats in the water.

If your running at 200f or about at wot then they may be getting blocked. Ask your engineer for his advise.

I told you two years ago I can supply aftermarket filters from stock, if you remember your thread about this last year.

If your not running hot then leave well alone.
Click to expand...


Thanks Paul, I have a healthy stock of Fleetguard and Volvo fuel and oil filters and prefer to use those.. this is more about the belts and air filters. I am not overheating but the coolant is due for a change so that will be done for sure. I am all about preventative maintenance so prefer not to leave well alone until a problem occurs.

I need to ask in that case why you'd recommend to go against the preventative maintenance approach and wait for an overheat condition before inspecting the likes of the CAC, Oil Cooler, Heat Exchanger, Sea Water Pump etc It makes sense to me to do so and clean them out before an overheat situation occurs. Are you saying there's more chance of creating a problem than fixing them if you start taking stuff apart to flush through the various veins in these components?

I have a drippy sea water pump so the seal is defo going to get looked at
 
oGaryo said:
Thanks Paul, I have a healthy stock of Fleetguard and Volvo fuel and oil filters and prefer to use those.. this is more about the belts and air filters. I am not overheating but the coolant is due for a change so that will be done for sure. I am all about preventative maintenance so prefer not to leave well alone until a problem occurs.

I need to ask in that case why you'd recommend to go against the preventative maintenance approach and wait for an overheat condition before inspecting the likes of the CAC, Oil Cooler, Heat Exchanger, Sea Water Pump etc It makes sense to me to do so and clean them out before an overheat situation occurs. Are you saying there's more chance of creating a problem than fixing them if you start taking stuff apart to flush through the various veins in these components?

I have a drippy sea water pump so the seal is defo going to get looked at
Click to expand...

If you want that approach then go the rydelime route, you won't have to strip it down , just rig up a pump to flow through the system , again this can be done when the boats out or in the water.

It's the newer D range engines that tend to suffer premature ageing over heat issues over the kad series motor.

One thing you can do while its out is to remove the exhaust elbows and glean the spray heads.
These corrode badly blocking the exit as there cast metal and rust.

Plenty to be getting on with.
 
volvopaul said:
If you want that approach then go the rydelime route, you won't have to strip it down , just rig up a pump to flow through the system , again this can be done when the boats out or in the water.

It's the newer D range engines that tend to suffer premature ageing over heat issues over the kad series motor.

One thing you can do while its out is to remove the exhaust elbows and glean the spray heads.
These corrode badly blocking the exit as there cast metal and rust.

Plenty to be getting on with.
Click to expand...


cool (excuse the pun). I did the exhaust elbows on the old Rinker and as you say, the water jacket was near on totally blocked so I'll give that a look as you suggest. Have read the manual and it suggests the following which I guess would put the boat in the same state as if it were out of the water apart from the exhaust elbow so makes sense to have a look at that now as you say..

Disconnect the seawater hose at the shield and plug
the water intake with a plug (1). Water will flow in as
soon as the seawater hose is disconnected. Ensure
that the plug, hose clamp and tools are prepared. Bend
the seawater hose downwards and drain of water.
Click to expand...
Still in two minds whether to dismantle or not, that rydelime stuff can create problems by clogging up the system with dislodged scale and I've always been a bit wary of using it due to the many debates about it knackering seals etc decisions decisions
 
oGaryo said:
cool (excuse the pun). I did the exhaust elbows on the old Rinker and as you say, the water jacket was near on totally blocked so I'll give that a look as you suggest. Have read the manual and it suggests the following which I guess would put the boat in the same state as if it were out of the water apart from the exhaust elbow so makes sense to have a look at that now as you say..



Still in two minds whether to dismantle or not, that rydelime stuff can create problems by clogging up the system with dislodged scale and I've always been a bit wary of using it due to the many debates about it knackering seals etc decisions decisions
Click to expand...

Too much to explain , but ignore your last instruction , the elbow just above the waterline , but the outlet hose to it is above the waterline too from the back of the heatexchanger .
 
oGaryo said:
Bizzy Bee is on the hard for her annual maintenance but I need to get her back in asap so want to concentrate on those things that can only be done out of the water, leaving the other work until she's back in her home berth. Are there any engine bay annual maintenance tasks that can only be done / checked when on the hard? In particular, I've not checked the status of the raw cooling waterways since owning the boat so intend to give the internals a look over this year along with a coolant change on the fresh water side, for example, can the heat exchanger be checked / cleaned with the boat in the water?

I am intending on doing the following on the hard:

  • sterndirve maintenance
  • antifoul
  • polish
  • seacock maintenance
  • fit thru hull transducuer

Should I add anything else to the list?

Cheers Gary
Click to expand...

Trim Tab anodes and gaitors condition? I usually disconnect tabs from motors and give a good silicone lubrication to the hinges of the tabs.
 
This might already be included in your sterndrive maintenance list, but it's a good time to grease up that steering helmet bearing. It's easier to see when grease starts to appear if the boat is out of the water.

Seabridge Marine have the trim tab gaiters.

.
 
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FlowerPower said:
This might already be included in your sterndrive maintenance list, but it's a good time to grease up that steering helmet bearing. It's easier to see when grease starts to appear if the boat is out of the water.

Seabridge Marine have the trim tab gaiters.

.
Click to expand...

Does anyone have a pic of the location of this grease nipple? I know it's behind the engine which makes sense, but not sure where I should be looking

-Edit-
Appears to be 21 here: http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7744570-44-5110.aspx
At least I know the area to be looking in
 
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