KAD300 - Replacing Throttle Potentiometer

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Hi all,
Noticed a few times last season that on the stbd engine, when I put the engine into neutral it stayed in gear! Resolved by going into reverse and then back to neutral... not nice. Happened again once this season so time to change. A re-calibration didn't fix it since it happened again this season.

After mentioned in a previous thread, petem (I think!) provided Bosch part no. which has arrived.

Is this a plug-n-play, or will I need to calibrate the throttle after? It's a twin set-up, if I need to calibrate, do I do the 2 throttles at the same time, or one at a time? The KAD300 user manual only shows how to do it for single engine.

Many thanks.

PS. Once I have access to the throttle assembly, is it easy to spot? I can get under-neath the assembly quite easily.

PS2. Actuator / Cable changed not so long ago (actuator died, changed cables as precaution) - she goes in and out of gear as normal (little clunk) and you can gear the actuator going in / out when testing and engine not running. This is a VERY intermittent fault, maybe twice last season and once this season. (boat used every weekend on fresh water)

 

[petem]

Hi all,
Noticed a few times last season that on the stbd engine, when I put the engine into neutral it stayed in gear! Resolved by going into reverse and then back to neutral... not nice. Happened again once this season so time to change. A re-calibration didn't fix it since it happened again this season.

After mentioned in a previous thread, petem (I think!) provided Bosch part no. which has arrived.

Is this a plug-n-play, or will I need to calibrate the throttle after? It's a twin set-up, if I need to calibrate, do I do the 2 throttles at the same time, or one at a time? The KAD300 user manual only shows how to do it for single engine.

Many thanks.

PS. Once I have access to the throttle assembly, is it easy to spot? I can get under-neath the assembly quite easily.

PS2. Actuator / Cable changed not so long ago (actuator died, changed cables as precaution) - she goes in and out of gear as normal (little clunk) and you can gear the actuator going in / out when testing and engine not running. This is a VERY intermittent fault, maybe twice last season and once this season. (boat used every weekend on fresh water)

My KAD300/42 manual states....

NOTE! When calibrating the control for two engines, both the control levers must be calibrated at the same time so that the lever positions are the same for both
engines.

 

[petem]

A fuller answer....

Yes, you will need to recalibrate the throttle after you change the potentiometer.

If your manual doesn't contain the excerpt above, please let me know and I'll send you a copy of the manual that I have.

I'll be interested to know if this fixes your issue. I haven't had a chance to test my boat following the freeing up of the cables so don't know if my identical issue persists. I haven't changed my potentiometer yet but do have a spare on board now. I guess it could be a sticking clutch too.

Did you notice whether your neutral light was illuminated when the fault occurred?

Incidentally, do you have your old actuator or did you bin it?

 

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P,
Thanks for your help.

The manual does indeed include the note you mention above, d'oh! (Must have been late when I was reading it!)

I will be fitting the new potentiometer this weekend, i'll let you know how I get on. However, as the issue occurred so rarely, i'm not sure how long it will take me to know if this resolves the issue.

One interesting thing, is that last year it was forward that didn't return to neutral. This one time this season, it was reverse that didn't return to neutral. I know my cables / actuator are good, and pretty sure my cones are fine. (although at 700 hours, it may be time to do a job on them... maybe this coming winter if i'm bored)

I do have the old actuator and plan on mucking about with it, again on a boring winters day (otherwise i'd be happy to send it to you FOC). The plastic rack-and-pinion had sh1t itself (for a better word). I can only presume one of the limit switches went faulty and didn't know when to tell the motor to stop. This is further backed up by the fact that when you powered up the ignition, you could hear the motor swirring away and wouldn't stop.

 

[petem]

I do have the old actuator and plan on mucking about with it, again on a boring winters day (otherwise i'd be happy to send it to you FOC). The plastic rack-and-pinion had sh1t itself (for a better word). I can only presume one of the limit switches went faulty and didn't know when to tell the motor to stop. This is further backed up by the fact that when you powered up the ignition, you could hear the motor swirring away and wouldn't stop.

Cool. When you strip it down would be good to see if you/we could source replacement plastic rack-and-pinion bits.

 

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Cool. When you strip it down would be good to see if you/we could source replacement plastic rack-and-pinion bits.

Absolutely. I'll take it apart again over the weekend and upload pics.

When you look at it, I reckon the whole thing costs no more than 50 euro. A far cry from Volvo hundreds of ££ pricing

 

[petem]

Absolutely. I'll take it apart again over the weekend and upload pics.

When you look at it, I reckon the whole thing costs no more than 50 euro. A far cry from Volvo hundreds of ££ pricing

Absolutely. A new Actuator is over £1000 now. I don't know how 'universal' these things are but there must be alternatives.

Also, I believe that these days, plastic parts (including gears) can be replicated inexpensively using 3d printing.

Pete