KAD 44s - computer

P

PaulGlatzel

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12 Jan 2005
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www.powerboat-training-uk.co.uk
Hi, have twin KAD44s and on the port engine the supercharger fails to run. Have diagnosed it back to the port computer (rather than wiring, sender or supercharger) as if you swap the computers over then the problem switches to the other engine.

My question is whether anyone has ever managed to do any form of reboot/reset on these boxes as i'm told (by a dealer) it can't be done - and thus need to spend c£1200 on a new little box

Thanks in advance for any assitance

Regards

Paul
 
I'd be interested to know if anyone repairs these things? They can be repaired on cars (at a big saving over the new price) and I wondered if anyone was doing this for boat ECUs also?
 
What happens is the relay burns out as its not really strong enough for the current drawn by the coil in the magnetic clutch.

You may also have a problem with the clutch as on the 44 the charger runs from cold till the engine is up to I think 40 degree c hence its in operation a lot more than a kad 42/43.

If you have noticed the gauges and rev counter move when the charger cuts in and out that means there is a high voltage drop in the system due to the excess current drawn off by a faulty coil/clutch.

Get it checked out before you fit another relay as it will blow again, the inline diode can also fail.
 
David - thanks for the number

Volvopaul - thanks for the reply and info. Question though, the relay that you refer to - this presumbaly is not within the ECU? Has not swapping the ECUs over and showing it then worked fine proven that the issue is in the ECU rather than relays or clutches - or am i getting confused? Excuse the ignorance on this but this area is not my strong point!

Thanks in advance

Paul
 
The ecu as you call it is a relay with an engine speed actuator to pull the relay in, I just call it a supercharger relay.

Hope this helps.

Paul.
 
Paul
As Volvopaul states it is not an ECU as such, on your engine it is more of a junction box consisting of a couple of automatic fuses, four relays and a resistor. I stand to be corrected but I don't think there is an engine speed relay fitted on yours that has been refered to, it's only on the KAD 32 to 43. Therefore to work out which one is the problem swop one relay at a time rather than the whole unit to find the one giving the problem, it has to be cheaper than £1200 for a total replacement.
Are you at the Poole or Solent part of Power Training?

Steve
 
the little black box houses a another little black box which controls the supercharger cut in and out rev range, you'll see screw to turn. the black relay i believe is the starter motor relay
i cant believe any of this is £1200
see mike wills across the yard, he should soon point you in right direction
cheers
carl s28 opposite, peanuts, ano s28 about 6 boats down from me !
ps want to book in radar course and sea survival course sometime !
 
[ QUOTE ]
the little black box houses a another little black box which controls the supercharger cut in and out rev range, you'll see screw to turn.

[/ QUOTE ]

I had a speed module go on my KAD43 and it was 250 quid. The little screw is I believe to adjust the cut off speed which is about 3000 RPM. The compressor cut in speed is pre-set at 1600 (KAD43)
I hope for your sake that within your "box" is another speed module like mine
 
Totally agree with your statement, it describes the set-up for a KAD32/42 and 43, however he is asking about a 44 and the junction box is different. As I have already mentioned previously inside the junction box are 4 relays, these are the main relay, the stop relay, the starter relay and the ground relay, there is no engine speed relay inside the junction box.

Steve
 
Just one more thought, are you talking about the junction box on top of the engine (like we all are) or is it the electronic diesel control (EDC) box on the side of the engine forward of the fuel filter. If the answer is yes to the EDC then we have all been talking about the wrong unit. That would also explain the VP price of £1200 - still a rip off mind you.

Steve
 
All

Thanks for all of the replies and apologies for the delay in replying but was away for kids half term. Dealing with each of the questions/observations raised in turn:

[ QUOTE ]
Volvopaul: If you have noticed the gauges and rev counter move when the charger cuts in and out that means there is a high voltage drop in the system due to the excess current drawn off by a faulty coil/clutch.

Get it checked out before you fit another relay as it will blow again, the inline diode can also fail.

[/ QUOTE ]

In truth not noticed this but will check. See later re relay Vs ECU question

[ QUOTE ]
Peanuts/steve: Therefore to work out which one is the problem swop one relay at a time rather than the whole unit to find the one giving the problem, it has to be cheaper than £1200 for a total replacement.

[/ QUOTE ]

Think the answer to a question below will shed some more light on this

[ QUOTE ]
Peanuts/steve: Are you at the Poole or Solent part of Power Training?

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Both really. I’m Principal of both of the schools – different branches of the same thing really – but most of our work occurs in Poole or overseas. I'm the one scrubbing down the hire boats at the bottom of F at silly times!

Gimmesunshine: Thanks re Mike. The diagnosis is from PMS and will speak to Mike but wanted to see what others had experienced. I must know peanuts and you by sight if you are near Carl on F – pop in for a coffee or at least the next time I walk past you say “gimmesunshine” and watch me startled walk straight off the pontoon!

[ QUOTE ]
Peanuts: Just one more thought, are you talking about the junction box on top of the engine (like we all are) or is it the electronic diesel control (EDC) box on the side of the engine forward of the fuel filter. If the answer is yes to the EDC then we have all been talking about the wrong unit. That would also explain the VP price of £1200

[/ QUOTE ]

Yep. It’s the green box I’m referring to as the computer/ecu not the little black junction box on the top of the engine with the relays in. This is the one (apparently) that sends signals and when its swapped from one engine to the other the problems switches sides. To me this rather implies that the relays are fine else the problem would remain and seems to imply the issue is the green box – I sincerely hope it is the relays though!

Sorry if I didn’t make myself clear – confirms my observation that engines are not my strong point!!

Regards

Paul
 
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