Kad 300 issue

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Matt infinity

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Hi all. I am hoping someone has had this issue before. I have a 2003 Fairline Targa 34 with twin EDC Kad 300s Went to the boat the first weekend of December to fire up the engines. Starboard was no problem but the port was flat due to the charger being turned off by accident. I jump started the port off the starboard engine and all ran fine on the berth in and out of gear, revs etc for about half hour. Turned everything off and left. Came back two weeks later, turned on the ignition, pressed the key / station button but no green neutral lights. Since then I have gone through all of the plugs on the engines, actuators, fuses, resets,changed all 3 batteries, tried the EDC panel on my neighbours boat (all good) and everything you can think of to no avail. The other bizarre thing is that when you turn the ignition keys back from the on position to the off position (not the fully sprung loaded off) most of the time the green neutral lights come on and if you move the throttles the actuators move as per normal. Any help gratefully received Thanks Matt.
 
What generation evc is it? the first series with the big round 'active station' buttons? get me the flash codes and I will have a look at work, count all the flashes on the led light in the series it comes in, twice to be sure. You also didn't say if the engine wouldn't start or didn't go to neutral properly the description wasn't so clear. I think they are the ones with he first series of electronically actuated gear shifters, if there is a problem with neutral I would remove the cable from the system to exclude any issues with cable settings or tension.
 
The control panel is type 1 (6 buttons). There is no codes. The button panel won't show neutral so the engines will turn over but not fire. Shift cables are disconnected and when the ignition is in the off position quite often the green neutral light comes on and you can shift forwards and back.
 
vptech said:
What generation evc is it? the first series with the big round 'active station' buttons? get me the flash codes and I will have a look at work, count all the flashes on the led light in the series it comes in, twice to be sure. You also didn't say if the engine wouldn't start or didn't go to neutral properly the description wasn't so clear. I think they are the ones with he first series of electronically actuated gear shifters, if there is a problem with neutral I would remove the cable from the system to exclude any issues with cable settings or tension.
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KAD / KAMD is old EDC, not new EVC.

Have you checked the EDC bug code? You will find instructions and results in the User Manual.

Maybe engines fuse, nro12 and 16, http://www.marinepartseurope.com/fi/volvo-penta-rajaytyskuva-7738870-30-4955B.aspx


NBs
 
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So it is crank but no start? could be anything. you need to start from the bottom up, ensure the fuel is clean and moving in, crack the injector high pressure lines open a bit and crank it to bleed the system. before doing that drain the raccor and prime the fuel again. but going further is almost impossible to diagnose effectively without more details. are you getting the 5v reference voltage at the sensors?
 
Matt infinity said:
Hi. No there are no codes. Matt.
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Hi,

Does the kompressor rotate when you try to start?

KAD does not anneal the plug when you start the machines cold the machine spins first and the compressor compresses the air at the same time as the sufficient heat EDC opens the fuel feed and the machine starts. The difference between cold start in the summer and cold air + -0 ° C may be in the order of 40 seconds.

Check the compressor to get involved if the o fuel fuel supply is something of a problem, eg fuel summer quality and air cold (parafin)?

An electrical disruption to connect the fuel supply to the accurate wiring and increase the WD-40.

You could try the diesel startup aerosol sprays at the same time as you rotate the machine (remove without filter and spray)

NBs
 
Hi vptech and NBs. The reason why they won't start is because I can't get the green neutral lights to come on on the EDC panel with the ignition keys turned to the ignition position. Most time when the keys are turned back one click the green neutral lights come on and you can move the throttles back and forth and the actuators do as they should. What I am trying to find out is why I can't get the neutral lights on in the correct ignition position.
 
Matt infinity said:
Hi vptech and NBs. The reason why they won't start is because I can't get the green neutral lights to come on on the EDC panel with the ignition keys turned to the ignition position. Most time when the keys are turned back one click the green neutral lights come on and you can move the throttles back and forth and the actuators do as they should. What I am trying to find out is why I can't get the neutral lights on in the correct ignition position.
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Hi,

Ok, maybe possible help reset the system and put in new settings for EDC and levers. Instructions can be found in the manuals?

NBs
 
LONG SHOT:
Check the black circular connector on the side of the black box which sits on top of the engine.
 
Thought I'd post an update. After swapping out just about everything we have now found that we have +12v at the violet wire on the ground and stop relays which should only be there with the key in the stop position not when the ignition is on. After removing the ground relay and bridging out 2 connectors on the stop relay plug hey presto the neutral light comes on when the ignition is turned on. Now we just need to find out what's sending the voltage down the violet wire.
 
Not sure how it fits in with the logic but I find on mine (KAD 44's) I have to turn both ignition switches to the stop position against the spring and hold for good contact in order to get the green lights to come up. Might be an issue in one of the ignition switches.
 
Hi. Just wondering if you found out where the rogue volts were coming from?. I have twin KAD300's - and I once had a very odd actuator problem (repeated stripping of the nylon cogs) that turned out to be an incorrect wiring addition by a previous owner. Took a while to find! Hope you got yours sorted?
 
Hi. Yes finally got the bottom of it after just 8 weeks !! Of searching. Turned out that the sea fire engine shut down system had packed up and was sending 12 volts stop signal down the violet wire every time the ignition was turned on. Then we had an actuator problem 2 weeks ago which was water getting into the plug at the back of the engine.
 
Matt infinity said:
Hi. Yes finally got the bottom of it after just 8 weeks !! Of searching. Turned out that the sea fire engine shut down system had packed up and was sending 12 volts stop signal down the violet wire every time the ignition was turned on. Then we had an actuator problem 2 weeks ago which was water getting into the plug at the back of the engine.
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Matt, what's the fix for the Sea Fire system issue?
 
Disconnect it !!!!!! That’s what we have done as I suddenly realised that whilst I appreciate that if a fire breaks out you need to shut the engines down the system could do this at 40knots with potentially catastrophic injuries to those on board as well as swamping the boat. By disconnecting it the fire extinguisher will still go off but it puts me in full control of shutting the boat down. Btw the only fix would have been to buy a new one.
 
Firstly well done on finding it. Should I even have a similar problem I will bear this in mind.

Others will have a view, but I would think twice about disconnecting it as opposed to repair.

In general I would imagine shutting down the engines in case of fire was a good thing. A fire needs fuel, and I imagine that most boat fires once they get going are at least partially sustained by spraying diesel.

Secondly if the unit is faulty enough to stop an engine then it maybe faulty enough not to sound the alarm at the helm.

Finally, most insurers seem to require disclosure of the fire system on the boat. Not in vast detail but how many extinguishers and where. Certainly my last insurer did ( I cant recall re Y who I am now with). A compromised fire system ( ie not as installed) I could imagine would potentially void the insurance should you be unlucky enough to have a fire.
 
Matt infinity said:
Disconnect it !!!!!! That’s what we have done as I suddenly realised that whilst I appreciate that if a fire breaks out you need to shut the engines down the system could do this at 40knots with potentially catastrophic injuries to those on board as well as swamping the boat. By disconnecting it the fire extinguisher will still go off but it puts me in full control of shutting the boat down. Btw the only fix would have been to buy a new one.
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Matt, my reason for asking is that you sometimes see the control units on eBay. I've got a new old stock head unit for mine (2003 boat) as the old one is a bit corroded and I'm a fussy sod. Cost me about £25 on eBay.

I'm pretty certain you wouldn't swamp the boat doing an emergency stop at 40kts. It would be a pretty poor design if that was the case. The cockpit door (should be closed) would stop a lot of the 'wave' and what reached the cockpit is unlikely to get into the cabin (door should also be closed when underway!). Most of the water wold drain back out the rear of the cockpit and the little that gets down the gap for the engine hatch will drain (make sure these drain holed are not blocked) or be dealt with by the bulge pump (check float)!
 
I appreciate the comments but having had an issue on a previous boat where the engine suddenly cut out and whilst been slung forwards into the wheel watched my friend come hurtlying past me from the back seat I feel it is the safer option. The fire extinguisher will still go off automatically or via the manual pull cable it just can’t shut the engines down by itself. With regard to a replacement unit yes I know there available (coastal rides have them) and there not expensive I just feel happier being in control of a shut down myself. The cockpit door is always shut for safety and the cabin door is always shut although ironically not for water ingress but to stop the oil smells being sucked into the cabin and I have removed the grates from the drain holes to stop any over spill as they seem to clog almost every week. The insurance side is interesting as I have never been asked anything about how many or type of system that the boat has although there is no reason why it should make any odds as the sea fire system is not a standard fit item it’s an option.
 
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