kad 300 advice please

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markl

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I have been advised to take out my engines and replace the fixing brackets which are a little rusty and also replace both the sumps as they 'may' be starting to corrode?

The boat was first launched in May 2004 and has been carefully maintained.

I was just wondering if this is fairly normal as it is going to be very expensive.

Any advice would be very welcome.
Thanks
 
markl said:
I have been advised to take out my engines and replace the fixing brackets which are a little rusty and also replace both the sumps as they 'may' be starting to corrode?

The boat was first launched in May 2004 and has been carefully maintained.

I was just wondering if this is fairly normal as it is going to be very expensive.

Any advice would be very welcome.
Thanks
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Our last boat had KAD300's from 2004. Admittedly, they were pretty low hours, but I never had such problems, or indeed heard of anything like it. Seems very odd to me - perhaps you might gety a second opinion? There's a lot of Volvo knowledge on here, so hopefully someone will come along soon, with more expert advice.
 
The sumps are made of mild steel and can corrode if there is a lot of water around but I have not seen bad corrosion on a 04 boat.

Can we have some photos please?
 
markl said:
I have been advised to take out my engines and replace the fixing brackets which are a little rusty and also replace both the sumps as they 'may' be starting to corrode?

The boat was first launched in May 2004 and has been carefully maintained.

I was just wondering if this is fairly normal as it is going to be very expensive.

Any advice would be very welcome.
Thanks
Click to expand...

Absolutely not normal and I would be extremely dubious as to whether you need to do this.
We have 1994 KAD42's (same basic engine as the 300 but lower HP and older) and have taken them out (ourselves) for an overhaul. The sumps are made of alloy or tin so don't corrode and the fixing feet are unlikely to be suffering from anything other than surface corrosion and can be cleaned up and re-painted whist in situ I would have thought.

Wouldn't be an engineer/yard who will do the work advising you to do this by any chance...??
 
Thanks for your advice. The boat has done around 200 hrs. Unfortunately I am unable to get any photos as I am in the UK at present but I have seen it and it looks ok and no obvious signs of rust.
When I first started to use the boat some salt water did enter via the swim platform which I think was due to bad design and was soon rectified. I always make sure there is no water in the bilges even if I have to use the hand pump.
 
I'd clean the mountings up with a wire brush and put a couple of coats of smooth Hammerite on them. It's available in various colours and looks good. It will kill the corrosion. If the previous salt water has made the sumps a bit rusty, do the same with them. If you can get underneath them. Might be able to bend a small radiator roller to get a bit of paint on them ? Or even reach underneath with an oily rag to kill the salt.
 
If you can borrow an enderscope then you can have a look for yourself. As you might know this is a device with a tiny camera on the end of a flexible rod that shows a picture on a small screen. I've used one to confirm an engine mounting was damaged which we would never have seen otherwise ( unless we started removing everthing). I would expect a good marine engineer to have one as they are so handy and available for under £200.
I hope this helps.
 
nicho said:
Nor me!!
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Surely just running your hand underneath across the sump surface and around the block/sump connection would indicate if serious problem present.
Would have thought that any corrosion capable of making a hole in the metal would raise quite a large and obvious accretion of rust which would be fairly easily detectable.
My mild steel Volvo sumps are 30 years old and apart from a few rusty spots here and there they appear not to be in danger of giving up any time soon!
Have always made great effort to keep bilges as dry and as clean as possible.
 
Thanks for everyones advice and suggestions. The boat is very well maintained and I also try to keep bilges as dry as possible although I think there is always a trace of water.
The boat is only in the water for 8-10 weeks and out for the rest of the time. They are recommending the engine brackets be replaced so perhaps suggesting the sumps covers replaced while the engines are out as a precaution but they are very expensive(800euro each).
 
markl said:
Thanks for everyones advice and suggestions. The boat is very well maintained and I also try to keep bilges as dry as possible although I think there is always a trace of water.
The boat is only in the water for 8-10 weeks and out for the rest of the time. They are recommending the engine brackets be replaced so perhaps suggesting the sumps covers replaced while the engines are out as a precaution but they are very expensive(800euro each).
Click to expand...

As mentioned in my earlier post, unless they changed between the KAD 42 and 300 they aren't mild steel so very unlikely to have corroded. Additionally, 800 euro's per sump is way out. You can source second hand for way cheaper in the unlikely event that they need replacing.
I think you should proceed with caution....
 
I'm no expert but looking at my engine mounts (kad43's) I'd bet you could change them without the engines out. Mine are 2002, 900 hours and no sign of rust. I think they may be trying it on.
 
I can confirm that the sump on a 2001 boat with a kad42 that the sump is mild steel as it has corroded to the point that all the oil just runs into the bilge.

I would just check yours by hand. This one was very rough on the bottom.
 
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