juggling unfixed Outboard and tiller singlehanded in Tight Quaters Marina Berthing

alahol2 said:
Not entirely true. On our last boat the engine could be steered in concert with the rudder via lines to the tiller.
Manoeuvring was very positive.
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Like this...

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I can do a 180 degree turn, either direction, forward or astern, in 2 boat lengths.
 
Seem to be managing for now and the boat will be up for sale soon as I need something more roomy inside for stay aboard nights off work. So very conscious of spending too much. The wind and turning arc into my berth appear to be the biggest factor to success but gradually learning and getting it better. Suppose it will help improve my technique when I upgrade to something with an inboard.

Thanks for all the help
 
thesaintlyone said:
Seem to be managing for now and the boat will be up for sale soon as I need something more roomy inside for stay aboard nights off work. So very conscious of spending too much. The wind and turning arc into my berth appear to be the biggest factor to success but gradually learning and getting it better. Suppose it will help improve my technique when I upgrade to something with an inboard.

Thanks for all the help
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I am pleased to hear you launched and moved to Gillingham marina without incident. I must admit I don't know how I would manage single handed in the tidal part although I know two people who keep boats there. I have always kept my boat on a mooring.

FWIW I have my outboard (6 hp Evinrude Yachtwin) fixed in the straight ahead position and steer with the rudder.

It means the boat has to be moving through the water fast enough for the rudder to be effective but I don't find that a problem.

Because the outboard is mounted off centre it means that the boat will turn in a tight circle in one direction but only in very large circle in the other direction. The trick when turning the "wrong " way is to get the boat moving and then throttle right back on the engine.
 
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Got a nice offer to keep it in the non Tidal section so I can use it a bit more. lots of local support where Im berthed been out with one guy on his mirage 28 who pointed out what I need to know mainly a case of coming in on the right arc to nose the boat into the slip whilst allowing the wind to carry the bow. Leaving I partly walk/reverse the boat out of the slip just to get her moving then climb aboard and engage forward when I have enough space to motor the bow clear of my neighbours boat.

Most difficult thing now is raising and dropping sails and having to leave the tiller unnatended alright in the calm but in any wind its a real judgement call plus in any tack or gybe I cant unhand the tiller long enough to apply winch Pressure and the boat goes past the ideal point and often stops dead.

I'll definitely Install Roller Furling Jib, Wavefront tiller clutch and lazy Jacks with sail pack on the next boat but its all extra expense at the moment which I wont get back.
 
thesaintlyone said:
Most difficult thing now is raising and dropping sails and having to leave the tiller unnatended alright in the calm but in any wind its a real judgement call plus in any tack or gybe I cant unhand the tiller long enough to apply winch Pressure and the boat goes past the ideal point and often stops dead.
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Do you have the halyards led back to the cockpit? I think it was an option on earlier Jousters and standard on later ones. If you get the outboard pointing in the right direction, which takes some care, it should be possible to leave the tiller alone for extended periods. I could point mine head to wind and go to the foredeck to hank on a jib without deviating much from the course.

I never found any difficulty in sailing the Jouster single handed, so I think it's just a matter of finding the right technique for tacks and gybes. You learn to steer with your knees while doing other things!
 
thesaintlyone said:
Got a nice offer to keep it in the non Tidal section so I can use it a bit more. lots of local support where Im berthed been out with one guy on his mirage 28 who pointed out what I need to know mainly a case of coming in on the right arc to nose the boat into the slip whilst allowing the wind to carry the bow. Leaving I partly walk/reverse the boat out of the slip just to get her moving then climb aboard and engage forward when I have enough space to motor the bow clear of my neighbour's boat.

Most difficult thing now is raising and dropping sails and having to leave the tiller unattended alright in the calm but in any wind its a real judgement call plus in any tack or gybe I cant unhand the tiller long enough to apply winch Pressure and the boat goes past the ideal point and often stops dead.

I'll definitely Install Roller Furling Jib, Wavefront tiller clutch and lazy Jacks with sail pack on the next boat but its all extra expense at the moment which I wont get back.
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A tiller pilot is, IMO, just about the most useful ancillary bit of kit that a single hander can have. Id be lost without mine. Particularly useful when raising or lowering sails. Motor very slowly just off dead into the wind with the tiller pilot in control. You do need to motor first to a place where you have plenty of sea-room. Sometimes it can be a compromise between sea room and shelter though.
 
Hi
I have had exactly the same problem and solved it easily. Its right the locking nut wont be tight enough generally. I am in France so moor stern to hence I needed to be able to manoeuvre in and out of a tight berth. You have to lower the outboard down into the water on the 'chaise' so that the steering arm rests against the back of the transom at the top. Loosen off the securing nut so you are able to steer the boat with the direction of the outboard. So, with the steering arm resting on the back of the transom and the engine in drive forward the spin of the propeller will push the boat to port. I fixed a G clamp over the edge of the transom and the arm rests against the G clamp. The pressure of the prop will push the arm onto the clamp and hold the engine in a straight line. You can then steer with the tiller in the normal way. If you need to reverse just lift it away from the clamp and steer backwards with the engine turning the engine in the direction you want. You have to hold the tiller with the other hand and point the rudder the same way too. A bit awkward but comes with practice. The G clamp is a bit unsightly but soon as I find a Gucci one I will change it.

cheers Mick
 
If I was keeping her then I would definitely be installing a roller furler jib and Wavefront Tiller Clutch which would simplify tings but its cost that I wont recuperate even in experience. I now how useful both are. Really need to focus on cosmetics like the cockpit which Im gonna line with Treadmaster.

Only halyards aft are the Jib lines so I rig the sail and secure to the gaurd rail before going out.
 
mickyp168 said:
Hi
I have had exactly the same problem and solved it easily. Its right the locking nut wont be tight enough generally.
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I have a 6Hp Evinrude. Almost identical to the OP's 8 hp Johnson. I have the steering friction adjustment tightened sufficiently to prevent the motor swivelling in all normal situations .
 
VicS said:
A tiller pilot is, IMO, just about the most useful ancillary bit of kit that a single hander can have. Id be lost without mine. Particularly useful when raising or lowering sails. Motor very slowly just off dead into the wind with the tiller pilot in control. You do need to motor first to a place where you have plenty of sea-room. Sometimes it can be a compromise between sea room and shelter though.
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I completely agree. I coped fine on the Jouster for many years without a tillerpilot ( I was young and skint) but I love the one which came with my current boat, and I am already thinking of fitting one to the Drascombe.
 
VicS said:
A tiller pilot is, IMO, just about the most useful ancillary bit of kit that a single hander can have. Id be lost without mine. Particularly useful when raising or lowering sails. Motor very slowly just off dead into the wind with the tiller pilot in control. You do need to motor first to a place where you have plenty of sea-room. Sometimes it can be a compromise between sea room and shelter though.
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I agree that sailing single handed without some sort of auto pilot is the pain in the backside.

You could always chance your arm on a second hand one? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Navico-Ti...660502?hash=item281b1e4556:g:L~0AAOSwnNBXbsZ~

No connection with the seller.

Buying a new one would save you lots of money in extending the halyards and re-routing them back to the cockpit.
 
RichardS said:
Make sure you secure the outboard exactly fore and aft. Many years ago some friends and I chartered identical Beneteau's in the Ionian which had an outboard in a well but steered with a tiller. Once we set off we noticed that our boat was crabbing sidewards slightly because the outboard was slightly offset although the offset was not visible by eye.

During the course of that holiday we had to refill the supplied 20 litre fuel tank twice. Our friends in convoy did not even use the first 20 litres. :ambivalence:

If you sense any crabbing, you need to re-adjust.

Richard
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Hi,
I'm interested, because I also keep the outboard clamped in a fixed position and steer by the boat rudder while cruising, and swivel the outboard while manoeuvering.
My outboard is offset a good 10" (270 mm) to port from the center line of the boat (Drascombe Dabber).

To find the correct pointing position of the outboard, this is what I do: I leave the boat tiller free and adjust the outboard position until I achieve a straight course (ideally without wind nor waves) then I clamp the OB there and use the boat tiller.
Inevitably the OB is pointing a little inboard - to starboard - and the boat is slightly crabbing.
Would the OB point exactly fore and aft, to sail a straight course a little port rudder would be needed, with resulting drag.

Now my question, which only by reading this thread dawned to me: from the point of view of drag/consomption, what is worse: crabbing or having the helm on?

On next occasion I'll try both ways, keeping the throttle in the same position and checking the difference in speed, thus in drag, if any, by GPS.
I'll report.

Whatever the result, if not huge, i'll continue my current way - crabbing, because there are other reasons: I would not like let go of the tiller, and seeing the boat starting changing course, even very slowly.
By the way, crabbing is what a boat with an offset OB and without a rudder, only steering by OB tiller, would be forced to do to keep a straight course.

Then there is the subject of how to clamp/free the OB but this is another story.

Thanks for having roused an interesting question.

Fair winds

Sandro
 
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