catmandoo
Well-Known Member
Thinking of adding another 20 metres to my existing 8 mm chain. Any reliable devices recommended for connecting chains together that will run over windlass without jamming
Joining anchor chain
- Thread starter catmandoo
- Start date
srp
Well-Known Member
There was a thread on this last week. If you search for 'c link anchor chain' using the search facility above it will give you a very promising hit at the top of the page, which then takes you straight to a discussion on locking fuel caps. That's what searching is like here at the moment - worse than useless.
freebird1
Well-Known Member
I looked at this once - you can buy the said C links - a two piece affair that when assembled looks like a chain link. I looked at them and was affraid about the low breaking strain on them - so I opted for a tested shackle, which was something like 8 times stronger. This is of course no good for a windlass, but suits my current arrangements.
sarabande
Well-Known Member
DaveS
Well-Known Member
While I'm sure all of these are very strong, none of them seems to be for 8mm chain, and are you sure any of them will go round a windlass? ISTR an earlier post claiming that trying to use such links could make the gypsy explode.
cliff
Well-Known Member
IMHO the only way to join chain is to split a link and reweld. The "C" links are too weak IMO and shackles are too big to run over a windlass.
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Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity
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SimbaDog
Well-Known Member
I have been looking into this for a bit & have come to the decision that due to the value of said boat & my nerves when anchored I am buying a complete new longer chain /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
davidbains
Well-Known Member
I do use a stailess shackle with a countersunk pin to connect my 8mm chain to the octoplait eye splice. It goes round the vertical windlass gypsy but jams in the deck hole! Can be wiggled thro and I may "adjust" it with a grinder. I jib at carrying more than 30mtrs of chain in the bow of a tri, but sometimes we need more scope, altho in a multi I do go looking for shallow spots.
For many years I anchored safely with only 50ft of chain, a big shackle and lots of nylon. Doesn't seem to work in the med with a windlass! And I don't like chain/rope splices but may have to try one.
For many years I anchored safely with only 50ft of chain, a big shackle and lots of nylon. Doesn't seem to work in the med with a windlass! And I don't like chain/rope splices but may have to try one.
davidbains
Well-Known Member
I do use a stainless shackle with a countersunk pin to connect my 8mm chain to the octoplait eye splice. It goes round the vertical windlass gypsy but jams in the deck hole! Can be wiggled thro and I may "adjust" it with a grinder. I jib at carrying more than 30mtrs of chain in the bow of a tri, but sometimes we need more scope, altho in a multi I do go looking for shallow spots.
For many years I anchored safely with only 50ft of chain, a big shackle and lots of nylon. Doesn't seem to work in the med with a windlass! And I don't like chain/rope splices but may have to try one.
For many years I anchored safely with only 50ft of chain, a big shackle and lots of nylon. Doesn't seem to work in the med with a windlass! And I don't like chain/rope splices but may have to try one.
Jock89
Well-Known Member
Hi PJ,
Just been busy looking into all this myself, with my chain.
This is going to make me look a bit stupid I know, but I'm working overseas all the time, & as I only spend a weeks leave on my new (to me) yacht every 3 mths I'd never even looked in the depths of the chain locker. I tried to haul the chain out through the hawse-pipe when I was back recently & managed to get about 20 metres out so thought that was all there was that came with the boat.
When I investigated further I found a solid rusted clump of 3/8ths chain at the bottom of the hawse-pipe. Managed to get it all out eventually but the rusted section was pretty much in the middle of the length, so cut it out & then wondered what I was going to join it with.
Due to the state of the galvanising on the old chain, & about 2lbs of galvanised dust in the bottom of the chain-locker, & on checking every link in the chain & discovering a tiny galvanised shackle joining two links together, which I had missed at 1.st glance, I realised I had no option but to get new chain.
Currently thinking along the lines of 70-80m of 3/8" galvanised. Better safe than sorry hey.?
I've cursed the previous owner of my boat several times during this huge refurbishment, & this was another instance.!
Jock
Just been busy looking into all this myself, with my chain.
This is going to make me look a bit stupid I know, but I'm working overseas all the time, & as I only spend a weeks leave on my new (to me) yacht every 3 mths I'd never even looked in the depths of the chain locker. I tried to haul the chain out through the hawse-pipe when I was back recently & managed to get about 20 metres out so thought that was all there was that came with the boat.
When I investigated further I found a solid rusted clump of 3/8ths chain at the bottom of the hawse-pipe. Managed to get it all out eventually but the rusted section was pretty much in the middle of the length, so cut it out & then wondered what I was going to join it with.
Due to the state of the galvanising on the old chain, & about 2lbs of galvanised dust in the bottom of the chain-locker, & on checking every link in the chain & discovering a tiny galvanised shackle joining two links together, which I had missed at 1.st glance, I realised I had no option but to get new chain.
Currently thinking along the lines of 70-80m of 3/8" galvanised. Better safe than sorry hey.?
I've cursed the previous owner of my boat several times during this huge refurbishment, & this was another instance.!
Jock
catmandoo
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
I do use a stainless shackle with a countersunk pin to connect my 8mm chain to the octoplait eye splice. It goes round the vertical windlass gypsy but jams in the deck hole! Can be wiggled thro and I may "adjust" it with a grinder. I jib at carrying more than 30mtrs of chain in the bow of a tri, but sometimes we need more scope, altho in a multi I do go looking for shallow spots.
For many years I anchored safely with only 50ft of chain, a big shackle and lots of nylon. Doesn't seem to work in the med with a windlass! And I don't like chain/rope splices but may have to try one.
[/ QUOTE ]
I have successfully spliced anchor plait to chain but have failed to get the windlass to work successfully with the anchor plait as while I can put it round the drum I cant stuff it down the hole which is under the gypsy so it ends up piled on the deck . hence the desire to extend with chain
I do use a stainless shackle with a countersunk pin to connect my 8mm chain to the octoplait eye splice. It goes round the vertical windlass gypsy but jams in the deck hole! Can be wiggled thro and I may "adjust" it with a grinder. I jib at carrying more than 30mtrs of chain in the bow of a tri, but sometimes we need more scope, altho in a multi I do go looking for shallow spots.
For many years I anchored safely with only 50ft of chain, a big shackle and lots of nylon. Doesn't seem to work in the med with a windlass! And I don't like chain/rope splices but may have to try one.
[/ QUOTE ]
I have successfully spliced anchor plait to chain but have failed to get the windlass to work successfully with the anchor plait as while I can put it round the drum I cant stuff it down the hole which is under the gypsy so it ends up piled on the deck . hence the desire to extend with chain
Chris_Robb
Well-Known Member
Info cut from a previous post. These links are strong and were subject to a review in YM. DO NOT USE ONES THAT RIVET TOGETHER EASILY. They will be made from cast iron and are weak. - the good ones need really heavy hammering!
From Selby engineering - 01977 684600 11.20 plus vat. Get them to post them, rather than use their carriers.
These are proper Heat treated drop forge jobs, They require a lot of banging to rivet them - with a heavy hammer - fitted mine yesterday!. They are a tight fit and it is a bit of a puzzle as to how the connect them and the chain but they do go together without any force.
Crossby - G335 missing link.
Reply from Viv Cox
As Chris has found out to his cost, some of the USA marketed links are not what they were. Outsourcing to Taiwan and China, company take-overs and other factors have combined to downgrade the strength of some of these links and I would not recommend them unless you receive a certificate with them.
The ones sold by Selby were as strong as the DIN 677 chain when made up correctly. Their minimum charges and transport rates make them a bit pricey unless you buy a few. (NOTE - they will post them, but ask for that - then it is much cheaper.)
From Selby engineering - 01977 684600 11.20 plus vat. Get them to post them, rather than use their carriers.
These are proper Heat treated drop forge jobs, They require a lot of banging to rivet them - with a heavy hammer - fitted mine yesterday!. They are a tight fit and it is a bit of a puzzle as to how the connect them and the chain but they do go together without any force.
Crossby - G335 missing link.
Reply from Viv Cox
As Chris has found out to his cost, some of the USA marketed links are not what they were. Outsourcing to Taiwan and China, company take-overs and other factors have combined to downgrade the strength of some of these links and I would not recommend them unless you receive a certificate with them.
The ones sold by Selby were as strong as the DIN 677 chain when made up correctly. Their minimum charges and transport rates make them a bit pricey unless you buy a few. (NOTE - they will post them, but ask for that - then it is much cheaper.)