Johnson 4HP Outboard Manual

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PhillM

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I have just acquired from a friend of a friend a working 4HP 2 stroke from 1999. Model number: J4REEA. However, having never owned an outboard and it not having a manual – I’m a bit stuck.

I have had a look on the web and there is one supplier of the owner’s manual but they want $20 and don’t like to ship to the UK. Does anyone have a pdf version I could take a copy of or a hardcopy that could be put through a copier? Happy to recompense for time and money.

Thanks,
Phill
 
Wait for Vic

Vic S of these fora will be along soon, I would imagine. He's our resident outboard expert. If he hasn't got one, he'll probably be able to give you a link.
 
I am not aware of a source of manuals other than from dealers for that age.

Manuals for 1996 and earlier are available from Ken Cook Co ( aka Outboardbooks.com) At a price and often for a photocopy!

From then on through Johnson / Evinrude /OMC dealers until much more recent models when they are on-line from Bombardier

Have you tried someone like Outboards direct ( aka Oakley Marine) or Willsmarine ? They should be able to supply but I guess it ill not be cheap.

The alternatives are to keep an eye open on eBay but an owners manual is not very likely to come up or hope someone can lend you one to photocopy.

Nice little engines. Pretty straightforward. Pretty sure people on here will be able to answer most queries. Lakesailor has some in depth experience of these. Not dissimilar in many respects from my 6hp Evinrude
 
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It's probably very similar (identical?) to the 4hp Evinrude I recently bought - 1998 model, I think. I asked a similar question, and VicS was able to suggest a few links to information, but none was available for this particular model.

Quite a lot of googling turned up some information, but no user manual unfortunately.
 
Thanks guys, being a complete novice with an outboard means that I dont really know where to start. Its very tidy and has been well looked after - I want to carry that on.

There is a outboard specilist company just over the road from the boat so I think I will take a wander over after Christmas and perhaps ask them to give it a service.

I do have a few basic questions:

1) Can I lie it on its side in a locker while sailing? If not, how do you transport an outboard while at sea?

2) Do I need to drain the petrol out of it before I do lie it down? Or should I be looking at attach a remote tnk and then just run the engine till empty? (CAN you attach a remote to this engine?)

3) I am assuming a 50:1 2 stroke mix. like my old moped (long time ago) is that correct?

4) Am I right that there will be an impeller somwhere and that it will need changing each year?

5) Am I right that I need to change the spark plug every year?

6) I can see an annode on the foot - which seems brand new - do I need to change that each year?

7) My inflatable says "will take a 2.5HP engine". Is using a 4 HP going to overpower / sink it or cause other problems? Personally, I cannot see a problem becaue I assume that the weight the inflatable can carry is overall so a slightly heavery outboard just means less people in the boat - or am I missing somthing.

Anything else I should be thinking about?
 
PhillM said:
Thanks guys, being a complete novice with an outboard means that I dont really know where to start. Its very tidy and has been well looked after - I want to carry that on.

There is a outboard specilist company just over the road from the boat so I think I will take a wander over after Christmas and perhaps ask them to give it a service.

I do have a few basic questions:

1) Can I lie it on its side in a locker while sailing? If not, how do you transport an outboard while at sea?

2) Do I need to drain the petrol out of it before I do lie it down? Or should I be looking at attach a remote tnk and then just run the engine till empty? (CAN you attach a remote to this engine?)

3) I am assuming a 50:1 2 stroke mix. like my old moped (long time ago) is that correct?

4) Am I right that there will be an impeller somwhere and that it will need changing each year?

5) Am I right that I need to change the spark plug every year?

6) I can see an annode on the foot - which seems brand new - do I need to change that each year?

7) My inflatable says "will take a 2.5HP engine". Is using a 4 HP going to overpower / sink it or cause other problems? Personally, I cannot see a problem becaue I assume that the weight the inflatable can carry is overall so a slightly heavery outboard just means less people in the boat - or am I missing somthing.

Anything else I should be thinking about?
Click to expand...

1. You can lay a 2 stroke down on any side you choose. Be sure the fuel tank vent is screwed down. This one has a combined choke and fuel tap control I believe. Make sure that is shut too.
Allow all the water to drain and keep the power head a bit higher than the gearcase.

2. Provided the fuel tap and vent are shut and the cap fits properly there should be no need to drain the fuel.
I believe this one can be fitted with a remote tank but only if there is a fuel pump and a connector for it. See part#1 in THIS DIAGRAM
It is not a bad idea to shut the fuel off and allow the carb to run dry before stowing it

3. 50:1 is the correct mix. Use a TCW3 2-stroke outboard oil.

4. There is a water pump impeller. It is located on the top of the gear case. #21 in THIS DIAGRAM It should be changed from time to time but annually is probably not necessary.
There is no "pee" from this engine so check for some water mist or spray from the exhaust relief outlet on the back of the leg.

5. You'll not need to change the plugs annually. They should last a good few years esp if little used . ( I think my 1984 Evinrude may have the original plugs in it)
The correct plugs are Champion QL77JC4 or QL86C ( Unsuppressed L77JC4 would be acceptable) The correct gap is 0.030".
Do not use resistor suppressed plugs such as NGK BR7HS. They are often supplied as equivalents to the Champion Q series but they are not suitable.
If needs be use B7HS ( No "R" )

6. You won't need to change the anode very often, if ever, if the engine is not permanently in the water ...

7. Its obviously more powerful than a 2.5 and a bit heavier too ( about 15.5kg) so some care will be needed. Your insurance may not be valid if you use a more powerful engine !


Every year change the gear oil, or at least check for water ingress. Renew seals if any signs of water ( milky oil) are found.

Grease all grease nipples every year. Lightly grease or oil as appropriate all external moving parts.

Clean fuel filter every year ( in line from the integral tank outlet. Part of the fuel pump when a pump is fitted).

Dont store old fuel in the tank. Ditch it and make fresh every year.

Flush in fresh water after use if possible. Certainly before storage.

"Fogging" before winter layup is sensible

.

The operator's manual is part number 213459 and the price in the US is $21.31
 
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PhillM said:
1) Can I lie it on its side in a locker while sailing? Yes but make sure it has completely drained all water out.

2) Do I need to drain the petrol out of it before I do lie it down? Not out of the tank but make sure you always run the engine to empty the carb before laying down.

I think yours is the same as ours and has a built in tank and an optional socket for attaching remote.
Clue is in the knob which selects built in or remote on front


3) I am assuming a 50:1 2 stroke mix. like my old moped (long time ago) is that correct?
Correct but use biodegradable marine 2 stroke to be kind to the environment.

4) Am I right that there will be an impeller somwhere and that it will need changing each year?
Not necessarily every year. We have had two years use between changes.The key is to ensure there is a little water spraying out about half way up the leg. If not either have professionally changed or get a manual!!!!!

easy job if you know how. On our model which has a clutch it involves splitting the bottom of the leg.

Only other servicing done regularly is to drain and refill gearbox oil


We always flush our engine out after each use. Not had any problems with overheating.


Only known weakpoint is the sealing of the water tube into the power head.

If this breaks down you get an overheated and or seized engine.


5) Am I right that I need to change the spark plug every year?
No but I do! Blow the cost as a good spark gives reliable starting

6) I can see an annode on the foot - which seems brand new - do I need to change that each year?
No ours not changed in 5 years just give it a bit of a sandpapering to revitalise.



7) My inflatable says "will take a 2.5HP engine". Is using a 4 HP going to overpower / sink it or cause other problems? Personally, I cannot see a problem becaue I assume that the weight the inflatable can carry is overall so a slightly heavery outboard just means less people in the boat - or am I missing somthing.

The model is about the same weight of most 2.5hp 2 strokes.

Just go easy on the throttle!



Anything else I should be thinking about?
Click to expand...

IMHO You have one of the most desirable 2 stroke engines.
They are very reliable...
It is a twin cylinder engine which means they will tick over really quietly .... Unlike the Honda 4 Stroke air cooled bag of S**te that sounds louder than a Seagull and should be banned from sale on the grounds of NOISE POLLUTION.

Twins are much easier to start as one cylinder usually kicks up straight away with a very light pull. Also should a plug fail you can get home on one cylinder but a bit slower.

You wont need a back support or deck crane to lift it on and off your dinghy....

Remember to undo the tank vent before trying to start:rolleyes:and close it before stowing away in a locker.

Oh reverse is selected by twisting the engine through 180' But the slow running ability means you very rarely need reverse.



MUST TYPE QUICKER MIGHT HAVE KNOW VICS WOULD BE QUICKER TO ANSWER
 
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Guys this is really helpful stuff. Thank you.

One last question (I promose :) ) how long will it run for on its internal tank. I'm planning to use it on the tender and for occasional trips up the river hamble, etc. So would not expect to run for more than a couple of hours at most. Do I need to carry a can in the dinghy or is a full tank enough?
 
PhillM said:
Guys this is really helpful stuff. Thank you.

One last question (I promose :) ) how long will it run for on its internal tank. I'm planning to use it on the tender and for occasional trips up the river hamble, etc. So would not expect to run for more than a couple of hours at most. Do I need to carry a can in the dinghy or is a full tank enough?
Click to expand...

Internal fuel tank is pretty small.

I guess its capacity is about 1 to 1.5 litres max.

I would think you might get about an hour depending upon loading.

I think we got about 40 mins on a tank full but I am pushing a 1.5 tonne 24' trailer sailer at 5 knots.

I would use an external tank in the front of the dinghy to help balance the lump at the back.

If you have to take a spare can keep it and the filler funnel in a poly bag as it will then be free of dirt and water which could cause problems when refuelling.
 
PhillM said:
Guys this is really helpful stuff. Thank you.

One last question (I promose :) ) how long will it run for on its internal tank. I'm planning to use it on the tender and for occasional trips up the river hamble, etc. So would not expect to run for more than a couple of hours at most. Do I need to carry a can in the dinghy or is a full tank enough?
Click to expand...

I dont know the size of the fuel tank. Earlier models were 1.4 litres but this one may be smaller.

2 hours of running on a tankfull may be a bit optimistic so take a can of (mixed) fuel with you on the first few trips until you are able to make some sort of estimate of the range. better to do that than have to row half way back from the pub.

( Horse and Jockey, Curbridge ??? )
 
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PhillM said:
I have just acquired from a friend of a friend a working 4HP 2 stroke from 1999. Model number: J4REEA. However, having never owned an outboard and it not having a manual – I’m a bit stuck.

I have had a look on the web and there is one supplier of the owner’s manual but they want $20 and don’t like to ship to the UK. Does anyone have a pdf version I could take a copy of or a hardcopy that could be put through a copier? Happy to recompense for time and money.

Thanks,
Phill
Click to expand...

Do yourself a favour
SELL IT
i had 2 x 4hp
1 x 2hp
utter rubbish
Buy a Tohatsu 3.3hp ;)
Sorry to take your time with the protracted explanation :o
 
sailorman said:
Do yourself a favour
SELL IT
i had 2 x 4hp
1 x 2hp
utter rubbish
Buy a Tohatsu 3.3hp ;)
Sorry to take your time with the protracted explanation :o
Click to expand...

No!

As TSB240 has already said these Johnson and Evinrude 4hp twins are reckoned to be one the best small outboards of all.

Pretty similar to my 6hp and that will see me out I reckon.
 
sailorman said:
The 6 was always good.
the 4 & 2hp were poor, unreliable, prone to overheating
Click to expand...

A repetitive cooling system problem is about the only thing that lets my 6hp down Biggish job to replace a tupenny ha'penny part so tend to do it as a matter of course when replacing the pump impeller. The 4 hp doesn't suffer from the same problem but it might have benefited from having a "pee" like the larger ones.
 
Storing on side.

I have an older Johnson 4HP. I have been told that it must be laid down on one side only. I've forgotton which so now I don't do it.
 
mawm said:
I have an older Johnson 4HP. I have been told that it must be laid down on one side only. I've forgotton which so now I don't do it.
Click to expand...

Your are correct, or partly so.

It should not be laid on the gear shift lever . You can break it off !
I'd forgotten that despite the fact that it applies to my 6 hp and most others
 
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