Poignard
Well-Known Member
You can always try selling it on here or on eBay and put the proceeds towards the proper thing.
Jimmy Green Marine Website
- Thread starter Wilfred27
- Start date
Bristolfashion
Well-Known Member
There's a lot of info on the website, but I found it ok. They were, however, very helpful on the phone last time I called.
Boathook
Well-Known Member
Looks like 2 different types of splices to me. The top one is spliced along the chain and the bottom one is a back splice? where the rope goes through the last link and then spliced back in imho.I remember looking at Jimmy Green's seemingly comprehensive chain/warp page.
I can't remember exactly why, but I ordered from Seamark Nunn in the end.
Among Jimmy Green's chain/warp splice images, I found this...
...is it a comparison of how it will look if you attempt it yourself, versus if you let Jimmy Green do it for you?
Sandro
Well-Known Member
One question about the two ways of chain-rope splicing.
To my eye the top one should be better for lack of sharp turns and less overall thickness of the splice but I read a breaking test report, I think in PBO, where the bottom one proved more resistant notwithstanding the sharp back turn.
Any more data or opinion on the subject?
Sandro
To my eye the top one should be better for lack of sharp turns and less overall thickness of the splice but I read a breaking test report, I think in PBO, where the bottom one proved more resistant notwithstanding the sharp back turn.
Any more data or opinion on the subject?
Sandro
Boathook
Well-Known Member
Ive got the bottom one on my rope to chain splice. I seem to remember looking into breaking loads and the weak point was either the chain or shackle on the anchor. The chain is 8mm and the shackle the biggest that would fit the last chain link.
Sandro
Well-Known Member
Thank you for the information Boathook. It would be interesting knowing which was the weak point in a "top one" splice test.
RJJ
Well-Known Member
The back-splice is recommended by some windlass manufacturers - mine included. I asked them why and they said the "long-splice" arrangement risks jumping the grip of both the "chain" and the "rope" grips in the gypsy; also that the rope strands can get pinched between the chain links and gypsy and create sudden wear that's hard to spot.
It's plenty strong IMHO. Mine is in 3-strand, with 2 strands passing L to R and the third stand R to L. So all three strands take the strain evenly.
Somehow I can't get my head around the "long-splice" - top of photo - and whether the chain links adequately grip the strands of rope. But equally I've used it (on a windlass) on a charter boat and no problems.
Kukri
Well-Known Member
I remember looking at Jimmy Green's seemingly comprehensive chain/warp page.
I can't remember exactly why, but I ordered from Seamark Nunn in the end.
Among Jimmy Green's chain/warp splice images, I found this...
...is it a comparison of how it will look if you attempt it yourself, versus if you let Jimmy Green do it for you?
The top one is the version of a rope to chain splice that used to be recommended by Simpson Lawrence and others.
The bottom one, which looks like a back splice, is actually a very old splice, which used to be called a chain splice when made in three strand rope. It was originally used to splice in short lengths of chain to take wear in the running rigging of square rigged ships, and it was used because it will pass a sheave which will take the rope diameter. It is plenty strong enough but it may suffer more from wear, in use with anchor gear, than the top one. The top one needs a chain and rope gypsy which indeed Simpson Lawrence used to supply.
Neeves
Well-Known Member
A Crosby G209a 3/8th" shackle will fit a 8mm chain link and has a Minimum Tensile Strength of 9t (though 4.5t if loaded at 90 degrees), the chain is usually much weaker, depending on the chain G30, G40, G70 or even galvanised G120, ranging from 3t to 8t (though I'm not sure there is a gypsy to take a '8mm', gal G120 chain).
Jonathan
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