Jib sheet track question Rival 32

[mattonthesea]

I need a means of adjusting the spinnaker sheets near midships. The easiest way I can see is to use an attachment to the jib sheet track using the same type of blocks. As she is approaching 50 I don't imagine these fittings are available anymore. Does anyone know the make and/or if I can get them anywhere? See images (sorry it's so dirty - just too cold to clean at the mo)

The alternative is to use those things on lines that you set to adjust the angle of the sheet pull on the spinnaker clew- I've forgotten the terminology! There are some plastic cleats just in the place I would fix them. I have never worked out what they are for (useless for mooring) and I wonder if I have stumbled on their raison d'etre. Or would the forces be too great?

 

[BabaYaga]

Regarding the track: I have found that 32mm T-tracks are not standardized. On some systems, like Barton's, the horisontal section is 5mm thick:
Barton Marine - Products - Genoa cars and sliders for 32mm track
On other T-tracks this measurement is 6mm. If yours is so, you might find a suitable traveller from Pfeiffer Marine:
Genoa track III 7404001 - Pfeiffer Marine
Obviously also check the plunger diameter.

 

[mattonthesea]

Regarding the track: I have found that 32mm T-tracks are not standardized. On some systems, like Barton's, the horisontal section is 5mm thick:
Barton Marine - Products - Genoa cars and sliders for 32mm track
On other T-tracks this measurement is 6mm. If yours is so, you might find a suitable traveller from Pfeiffer Marine:
Genoa track III 7404001 - Pfeiffer Marine
Obviously also check the plunger diameter.

Good points. I hadn't thought of the other dimensions!

 

[Poignard]

Is that the type where a Tufnol strip is sandwiched between the s/s bar and the deck?

 

[neil_s]

You might think about barber - haulers (the terminology you mislaid!). I have them and they are cheap and cheerful - but they work. Mine are just short lengths of rope with a hard eye spliced in one end. The sheet or guy goes through that. The barber - hauler goes around a convenient stancheon base - mine have a little loop welded on the inside that stops the rope from sliding up. The barber - hauler goes back to the cockpit and is secured in a clam cleat. No expensive blocks needed! This is on a 28 foot boat.

 

[mattonthesea]

You might think about barber - haulers (the terminology you mislaid!). I have them and they are cheap and cheerful - but they work. Mine are just short lengths of rope with a hard eye spliced in one end. The sheet or guy goes through that. The barber - hauler goes around a convenient stancheon base - mine have a little loop welded on the inside that stops the rope from sliding up. The barber - hauler goes back to the cockpit and is secured in a clam cleat. No expensive blocks needed! This is on a 28 foot boat.

Is the stanchion base ok to use? Happy to so long as I'm not damaging anything

 

[William_H]

You might think about barber - haulers (the terminology you mislaid!). I have them and they are cheap and cheerful - but they work. Mine are just short lengths of rope with a hard eye spliced in one end. The sheet or guy goes through that. The barber - hauler goes around a convenient stanchion base - mine have a little loop welded on the inside that stops the rope from sliding up. The barber - hauler goes back to the cockpit and is secured in a clam cleat. No expensive blocks needed! This is on a 28 foot boat.

Yes the regular way to operate spinnacker sheets is to fit a turning block for the sheets near the stern. When the sheet becomes a brace (windward side) you pull the line down with a kicker. This kicker is a line with a ss ring on the end for the sheet to go through. It goes down to a block on the gunwhale about half way from mast to bow. Then back to a cleat in the cockpit. This arrangement is common on 33ft racers here for a regular spin.
This location of the turning block for the kicker (down haul) is a bit of a compromise. Further forward gives more down power to sheet/brace when running shy but further forward limits the ability for the pole to go back to right angles to c/l. So back is better for running. In my case the compromise is further forward for good shy spin runs but square running is not so good. ol'will Here's a photo hot off the press from last Sunday racing. This is my tiny strong winds spin. This side is the brace to the pole, note the sheet goes right back to the stern but the tweeker /down haul can pull the brace down to hold down the pole. Yes, a much smaller boat but the same system used on Foundartion36 match racing yachts. ol'will
More edit I was not actually on board that is son handling spin. The forecast looked horrible and I was needed as Race Officer. The main has 2 reefpoints but we only use one reef roped in for 2 line reefing. So I gave instructions to put first reef in using just ropes before leaving mooring. Then thread up reef 2 in case of need. So that explains the horrible jumble of rope at the gooseneck. ie rope from tack cringle around mast then also around boom. Likewise at clew with line out to outhaul.
You might also spopt my home made VHF antenna sticking up from white insulation under div.flag. sailing was actually quite nice after all. ol'will

 

[Stemar]

Rivals are built like tanks, so I'd expect the stanchion bases to be up to the job, but an alternative would be to fit a U bolt through the deck and a ply base plate. Use dome nuts on the inside and it will look fine

 

[mattonthesea]

Well that's a simple, cheap and easy solution

Thanks all

M

 

[thinwater]

Is the stanchion base ok to use? Happy to so long as I'm not damaging anything

Adding a midships cleat and using that is a another option. Midships cleats are very handy for spring lines as well. My chute twings and genoa downhaul go to midships cleats. On my F-24 there is a dedicated U-bolt for this purpose.