Jamming Companionway Hatch

emsworthy

emsworthy

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The companionway hatch on our Sadler 26 is very stiff to open, and almost impossible to do so from inside with the washboards in place.

It is a one piece GRP moulding that slides on an aluminium bearer inside a hardwood guide. The attached (rough) sketch of the profile may make more sense.

I wondered whether there was too much friction on the surface between the GRP and aluminium or perhaps it is twisting slightly and jamming on the wooden guides. Either way it is a serious problem as if we needed to get out in a hurry we couldn't as it stands. (As I discovered last night :()

Any thoughts on the best way to resolve this problem?
 
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Maybe the wooden guides have absorbed moisture after all this wet weather and swelled.

If you take the sliding hatch out you may be able to see scuff marks on it that will help to locate where it is binding.
 
I have the same problem on my Sun Fizz. I am not so sure its the guides - I think the roof of the hatch garage has deformed over the years and jams it but I dont know. Anyway it does wonders for my neck muscles trying to heave it back with my head.
 
I would take the hatch out and claena out any debris that may be fouling the runners and then rub a cheap white candle well on to all mating sides, it makes a very good non sticky lasting lubticant.
 
Mine runs brass on brass and gets very sticky. I spray it with silicone lubricant from time to time and it slides like sh*t off a shiney shovel.
 
Hatch

emsworthy said:
The companionway hatch on our Sadler 26 is very stiff to open, and almost impossible to do so from inside with the washboards in place.

It is a one piece GRP moulding that slides on an aluminium bearer inside a hardwood guide. The attached (rough) sketch of the profile may make more sense.

I wondered whether there was too much friction on the surface between the GRP and aluminium or perhaps it is twisting slightly and jamming on the wooden guides. Either way it is a serious problem as if we needed to get out in a hurry we couldn't as it stands. (As I discovered last night :()

Any thoughts on the best way to resolve this problem?
Click to expand...

Is there a Sadler's Club; the problem may have occurred before and have been discussed by club members.
 
Jamming hatch

I've had exactly this problem on my Sadler 26 (Bonsella). Cleaning the runners and WD40 solved the problem. On Bonsella the fibre glass hatch runs in aluminium runners/guides that are screwed directly to the roof - there is no hard wood trim - so your problem may be different if the wood is in any way distorted.

As others have suggested have a look at the Mike Lucas site at http://www.mikelucasyachting.co.uk/frameset.htm

Morgan
 
My perspex hatch was sticking so much I had to kick it open.I removed it and found that the old grease had got so thick it was more like a glue.Cleaned everything and put a bit of engine oil on the guides and everything is fine now .
 
If there is clearance between the components involved, then cleaning should do the trick, but if the bridgedeck area is not well supported from below, the companionway could be folding inwards slightly at the top when it sags. Test by carefully jacking up the bridgedeck area (probably just in front of the engine) and check if that frees the hatch.
Another question to ask yourself, do the washboards still drop freely to the bottom of the groove, or have you had to shave them?
If it's sag, it's not the end of the world to reinforce existing structures ar add an extra piece.
 
I kid you not. "Free 'n easy" from Lakeland is brilliant for providing a dry non-binding surfaces...
Click to expand...

Thanks OFG.

My next question was going to be "can anyone recommend a cheap (therefore non-boaty) and clean lubricant to use?".

Of to Lakeland I go.
 
emsworthy said:
The companionway hatch on our Sadler 26 is very stiff to open, and almost impossible to do so from inside with the washboards in place.
Click to expand...

I hope cleaning and lubricating is the way forward for you. If it doesn't work you may have to consider the possibility that the boat has become slightly deformed: this can happen if, for example, the rigging has become over-tightened or if the hull is not well-supported ashore.
 
There is a big diference between oil type lubricants (which tend to gather dirt and ultimately increase jambing) compared to dry lubricants such as a silcone spray.
I have gone the silicone spray route and worked wonders. Any chandlery should stock

Also essential on board for sail slides, under tell-tales on jib, halyard stopper levers etc
 
Candle wax will do it . It is also good for when it rains on the tell tails just rub some candle wax under the tell tails on the sail cloth and they dont stick in the rain.
 
If or when cleaning and lubricating fails to solve the problem, slide a piece of new 120grit sandpaper into the gap between hatch and wood, grit side facing up.
Now try moving it fore and aft. Where it sticks is probably the tight spot but check again with hatch open, half shut and shut.
Now attempt to slide the sandpaper back and forth( if necessary ducttape it to the hatch) to remove just enough of the underface of the wood to remove the tight spot. With patience and good quality stiff new oxide sandpaper, this should do it without having to dismantle anything.
If really realy tight, wedge the gap open enough to get sandpaper in and rub away, Genie.
 
Just polish the slide and runners with any household polish like Pledge or similar. As they almost all contain silicone, amongst other things, they work a treat as a low cost lubricant for all kinds of things where you don't want to get dirty touching them or attract dust and dirt.

Household aerosol polishes work great on slideways, curtain rails, zips, etc.
 
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