Jabsco Heads

[lumphammer]

I have noticed a number of posts relating to failure to suck on the inlet side. Apart from this symptom is there any way of identifying if the fault lies with the changeover switch.

As a second question, the manual shows an anti syphon loop between the pump and bowl on the inlet side. My existing arrangement has the anti-syphon loop between the stop cock and the pump. Is there any problem with this?

TIA

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[SlowlyButSurely]

Yes. The purpose of the anti-syphon loop is to let air into the pipe to break the syphon so it will suck in air through the vent. It needs to be fitted in a pipe where water is being pumped out rather than being sucked in.

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[roger]

If the toilet is below sea level I think you need anti siphon loops and siphon breakers on both inlet and outlet sides.
I cannot remember whether the inlet loop goes before the pump or between pump and toilet. There is a diagram that comes with the toilet but mine is on the boat.

<hr width=100% size=1>Roger

 

[dulcibella]

For a below-waterline position, the recommended arrangement is to have a loop and syphon-breaker on each outlet line from the pump. I had to replumb mine after I bought the boat 2nd hand, as the shipyard or the previous owner had installed it for loo-above-waterline (without syphon-breakers and with water inlet loop on "suck" side of pump) so the bowl filled and overflowed unless the seacocks were closed every time.

I know it is safest to close the seacocks after each use, but that's not very practical if it involves taking a sole panel out each time.

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[HeadMistress]

But you DO close 'em when you leave the boat, I hope. 'cuz head seacocks left open is the leading cause of boats sinking in their slips while no one is aboard.

<hr width=100% size=1>Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987