Jabsco fixings

conks01

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Hi,

I've purchased a used Jabsco.

I understand that you are normally to use bolts to fix it to the plinth albeit I have no access to get in / under the plinth?

20200518_153638.jpg

There was an existing SL400 and the base appeared to be fixed with hex bolts.

Does it have to be bolted or could I use machine screws or similar?

Thanks.
 
The base of the Jabsco is round with 4 holes to bolt it down.

If you use a hole saw to cut a hole at the centre where the base would fit just big enough to gain access under the plinth for the bolts the jabsco base will will cover the access hole.
 
Unless I have misunderstood this suggestion, you will have to “captivate” the nuts or the bolts as the access hole will be covered when you otherwise need to hold the nuts or bolts whilst tightening.
If you cut your access hole in the vertical face of the plinth you will avoid that problem but you will then have to make a cover for the access hole. This approach worked well for me. I also fitted some thick ply pieces under the plinth to spread the load of the bolts.
 
I've purchased a used Jabsco.
I understand that you are normally to use bolts to fix it to the plinth albeit I have no access to get in / under the plinth?

There was an existing SL400 and the base appeared to be fixed with hex bolts.
Does it have to be bolted or could I use machine screws or similar?

Thanks.
Machine screws into tapped holes in the plinth is apossibility if the fibreglass is thick enough and you can drill and tap the holes accurately

The base of the Jabsco is round with 4 holes to bolt it down.

If you use a hole saw to cut a hole at the centre where the base would fit just big enough to gain access under the plinth for the bolts the jabsco base will will cover the access hole.

Not the standard manual one

Unless I have misunderstood this suggestion, you will have to “captivate” the nuts or the bolts as the access hole will be covered when you otherwise need to hold the nuts or bolts whilst tightening.
If you cut your access hole in the vertical face of the plinth you will avoid that problem but you will then have to make a cover for the access hole. This approach worked well for me. I also fitted some thick ply pieces under the plinth to spread the load of the bolts.

Absolutely ... Thats a standard method

But pan head machine screws, with nuts and washers underneath, will look neater than bolts or set screws.
 
Last edited:
Not the standard manual one


True but where the base is bolted down with 4 bolts it is kind or round ans a hol can be drilled inside the PCD of the bolts so that the bolts/set screws can be inserted through the hole .

I found out about his method after I have fitted an access hatch in the front step like you state as the standard method.
 
On my 2004/5 Jeanneau the Jabsco base was fitted with 4 coach bolts into some sort of timber bonded to the very inaccessible underside of the GRP moulding. I expected to have to cut an access hole to fit captive nuts when replacing the heads, but in the end did not have to. I don't regard this as a very good fixing method, but it seems to be common. P1060243.JPG
 
Sorry for the none technical terms, they were 4 large self-tapping bolts, no nuts needed, when I last changed one.


Or use toggle bolts
220px-Toggle_bolts.JPG
 
Mine's held down with sodding great big pan headed self tappers. The RM before was the same and lasted 12 years and the Jabsco's been in for about five, though it rarely gets used at sea. If I was crossing the Atlantic (in a Snapdragon!?), I might consider a way of bolting it down
 
If you cut your access hole in the vertical face of the plinth you will avoid that problem but you will then have to make a cover for the access hole. This approach worked well for me. I also fitted some thick ply pieces under the plinth to spread the load of the bolts.
(y) Same here, but you don't need to make a cover, Vent Plates do a good job.
 
On my 2004/5 Jeanneau the Jabsco base was fitted with 4 coach bolts into some sort of timber bonded to the very inaccessible underside of the GRP moulding. I expected to have to cut an access hole to fit captive nuts when replacing the heads, but in the end did not have to. I don't regard this as a very good fixing method, but it seems to be common. View attachment 90554
my Beneteau the same, 20 years old, been off a few times, no probs
 
I did as Vyv did, moved the pan sideways and made a new plinth top, fitted the base to that then fitted the new plinth top down, works well and also strengthens the base as well.
 
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