Jabsco 37010 electric Toilet

[frenzy]

The motor assembly is the most expensive to replace. I believe about £170? You are in the realms of throwing good money after bad. Have you done the obvious and seen if it can suck water out of a bucket next to the loo? Personally I think it would be very obvious if the motor was failing as the speed would be noticably slow. On mine, I didn't use the service kit. I changed both the impellors and chopper (although none looked as if they need to be changed so I've kept them for spares (after bleaching them!!!). The biggest difference was the wear plate (which I don't believe is in the service kit - item 23 on the exploded view?) and the shaft seal (items 29/30) behind the rubber impellor and the motor as this is a prime candidate to leak if you disturb the shaft. Its like a new unit now and is quite different to its post repair state. Mine is the 1090 variant for what its worth.

The service kit I got included the wear plate,impeller,shaft seal etc. I do no think there is anything else to replace. Yes I have tried the hose with a bucket and its drawing the water at a very weak rate. (Dribble ) Sometimes it increases but generally very poor.
If I fill the hose with water and blow it though and then place in a bucket of water it does draw well for a second or two.

 

[steve930]

Sounds like the pump is drawing in air. I'd take it all apart and double check all the o rings, seals etc. Maybe give them all a smear with silicone grease or vasaline and make sure you tighten the motor to pump body screws & compete unit to toilet bowl screws evenly

 

[boatingdave]

Sounds like the pump is drawing in air. I'd take it all apart and double check all the o rings, seals etc. Maybe give them all a smear with silicone grease or vasaline and make sure you tighten the motor to pump body screws & compete unit to toilet bowl screws evenly

The water inlet in to the impellor housing is next to the impeller so unless the air leak is actually between the impleller and the wear plate I would have thought it would leak water out rather than sucking air in (based on my own recent experience). These pumps are quite resilient and it takes a lot for them to reduce to the level indicated by the OP

OP - I feel for the you. There is no reason why this shouldn't work - they are not complicated in any way - so as long as the inlet has unfettered access to water, the motor is the correct polarity and spins at the desired speed, and the outlet isn't blocked by any Y valves or sea cocks in the wrong position then it should just 'work'. To state the obvious which has probably already been done - if you can put the pump inlet in to a bucket and direct the open outlet on a short run to the shower or out of the vessel somehow this will isolate the rest of the installation so will prove if it is still the toilet or the boat plumbing. If that still doesn't work then I'm running out of ideas. As you mentioned above, when you put the inlet pipe in to a bucket it still wasn't good that means the problem is still from that point forward. We are all only stating the logic that has gone through your head a millions times already. Another thought - if you elevate the inlet hose and fill it with water and have the outlet open - does the water stay in the pipe or flow out? This would indicate if the impeller still has the vanes attached (sometimes folk assemble them dry which can damage them the first time the pump is run until the vanes align themselves) but that is definately clutching at straws now.
Good luck resolving this and please keep us posted.

 

[frenzy]

The water inlet in to the impellor housing is next to the impeller so unless the air leak is actually between the impleller and the wear plate I would have thought it would leak water out rather than sucking air in (based on my own recent experience). These pumps are quite resilient and it takes a lot for them to reduce to the level indicated by the OP

OP - I feel for the you. There is no reason why this shouldn't work - they are not complicated in any way - so as long as the inlet has unfettered access to water, the motor is the correct polarity and spins at the desired speed, and the outlet isn't blocked by any Y valves or sea cocks in the wrong position then it should just 'work'. To state the obvious which has probably already been done - if you can put the pump inlet in to a bucket and direct the open outlet on a short run to the shower or out of the vessel somehow this will isolate the rest of the installation so will prove if it is still the toilet or the boat plumbing. If that still doesn't work then I'm running out of ideas. As you mentioned above, when you put the inlet pipe in to a bucket it still wasn't good that means the problem is still from that point forward. We are all only stating the logic that has gone through your head a millions times already. Another thought - if you elevate the inlet hose and fill it with water and have the outlet open - does the water stay in the pipe or flow out? This would indicate if the impeller still has the vanes attached (sometimes folk assemble them dry which can damage them the first time the pump is run until the vanes align themselves) but that is definately clutching at straws now.
Good luck resolving this and please keep us posted.

Ok striped the entire assembly back and rebuilt. Still no joy. I then purchased a new assembly in the states for $200 ( relative coming home). Connected it and it's working at last. Probably the most expensive toilet I will ever have. Thanks for all the advise and help.