Is waterproof, conductive, grease required on screwed electrical connections, please?

NealB

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Right ...... I'm getting down to what, for an ancient accountant, is very advanced electrical engineering.

The wires on the old Autohelm control unit, were simply poked into the relevant holes, and then screwed firmly.

With the new Bulgin Buccaneer connectors, would it be better practice to apply a bit of conductive, waterproof, grease, before screwing, please, and, if so, is there a recommended product?
 

ducked

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I doubt it needs to be conductive, since the metals are in intimate contact, and if you are relying on grease to make your circuit, you are probably OOL.

I would use it to inhibit the development of the green crusties, and I would probably use silicone dielectric grease if I had some.

When I was in the TA RE and needed to varnish something, the varnish they had in the stores gave really terrible results, ( re-dissolved in itself so it couldn't be overcoated) and turned out to be electricians varnish, for doing contacts, Dunno what was in it (maybe Shellac?) but I doubt it was conductive. Electrical varnish is also described on't Internyet as "insulating varnish"

I suppose if you DID need something conductive, copper based antiseize might go some way to fulfilling that need.

I probably should point out that Mr O of South Main Auto, who is no stranger to the green crusties, and seldom wrong (though maybe on this?) pours scorn on the practice of gooping up electrical contacts.
 
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PaulRainbow

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Right ...... I'm getting down to what, for an ancient accountant, is very advanced electrical engineering.

The wires on the old Autohelm control unit, were simply poked into the relevant holes, and then screwed firmly.

With the new Bulgin Buccaneer connectors, would it be better practice to apply a bit of conductive, waterproof, grease, before screwing, please, and, if so, is there a recommended product?
Some silicon grease will do the job Neil.
 

neil_s

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I use the Bulgin Buccaneer connectors - I do up the clamp screws on the wires and then apply a small drip of ACL 50. This is an anti-corrosion product developed for aircraft. It is easily found on e-bay and I have found it very good for electrical connections. It migrates along the wire strands and seals the open end of the insulation, protecting the wire and stopping moisture wicking up the wires.
 

NealB

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Electrical varnish is designed to be non conductive to prevent short circuits on circuit boards.

Using conductive grease is a bad idea, in hot weather it could melt and cause a short circuit.
Thanks.

Yes, that was my worry (plus the fact that the connections in the original connectors seemed to have lasted well enough for an unknown number of years).

I'm just wondering if there's an accepted 'best practice'.
 

NealB

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I use the Bulgin Buccaneer connectors - I do up the clamp screws on the wires and then apply a small drip of ACL 50. This is an anti-corrosion product developed for aircraft. It is easily found on e-bay and I have found it very good for electrical connections. It migrates along the wire strands and seals the open end of the insulation, protecting the wire and stopping moisture wicking up the wires.
Thanks.

ACF 50, maybe?

ACF-50 Corrosion Block Grease 2 oz Motorcycle Motorbike Multi Purpose Grease 770153250026 | eBay
 

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Yes, there is such a thing as conductive grease. It has specific uses in high power contactors, and is NOT what you need here. You want a non-conductive grease that will keep out air and water and discourage galvanic corrosion. Silicone grease is good, but there is no magic. But really any waterproof grease will do well. It is the corrosion protection you want. You don't need conductivity; tight screws take care of that.

(Ultra low conductivity dielectric greases, including silicone, are required where high voltages and leakage potential is important, such as ignitions systems. Thus, many people associate dielectric grease with connections. But at 12V this is irrelevant.)
 

ducked

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Yes, there is such a thing as conductive grease. It has specific uses in high power contactors, and is NOT what you need here. You want a non-conductive grease that will keep out air and water and discourage galvanic corrosion. Silicone grease is good, but there is no magic. But really any waterproof grease will do well. It is the corrosion protection you want. You don't need conductivity; tight screws take care of that.

(Ultra low conductivity dielectric greases, including silicone, are required where high voltages and leakage potential is important, such as ignitions systems. Thus, many people associate dielectric grease with connections. But at 12V this is irrelevant.)
Vaseline used to be recommended for battery contacts. Cheap and available.

(Never found silicone grease in Taiwan, but got some in Japan)

If I wanted something penetrating, I might consider my automotive panacea, sunflower oil, but it can encourage mould in damp, poorly ventilated locations, plus it might interfere with disassembly, as might varnish.

Maybe thats why the electricians varnish I accidentally encountered long ago dissolved in itself, so it could be easily removed with solvent.
 
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OCuea

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Agreed but it is not a conductive grease.

Boatlamps used to sell Contralube but they now sell Nyogel 760G in its place
Just looked up the boat lamp place , 3ml for £4.50 ????? What magical stuff is that? What is the price of silver or gold equivalent I wonder?
 

NealB

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Yes, there is such a thing as conductive grease. It has specific uses in high power contactors, and is NOT what you need here. You want a non-conductive grease that will keep out air and water and discourage galvanic corrosion. Silicone grease is good, but there is no magic. But really any waterproof grease will do well. It is the corrosion protection you want. You don't need conductivity; tight screws take care of that.

(Ultra low conductivity dielectric greases, including silicone, are required where high voltages and leakage potential is important, such as ignitions systems. Thus, many people associate dielectric grease with connections. But at 12V this is irrelevant.)
An excellent answer, thank you.
 
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