Is it worth the hassle 2pack paint topside

I've used International 2 pack varnish on carbon masts.
It's great but needs enough time and temperature to cure before any damp gets near it.
A disaster outdoors this time of year.

The best paint to use is whatever you get good results with, which varies from person to person.
Best boat I've ever painted was with ordinary Dulux polyurethane liquid gloss.
It looked OK 5 years later.
YMMV!
 
dankilb said:
Yes, in all seriousness, OP should check that the army filters are up-to-spec for the solvents (again, whatever the 'A2P2/P3' equivalent is). Guess that may potentially mean picking up a specific type of filter for an army mask? Sure they are available...
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i have an arco mask full face fitted with abek1 and p3 filter i think that is good for solvents and paints
 
TernVI said:
I've used International 2 pack varnish on carbon masts.
It's great but needs enough time and temperature to cure before any damp gets near it.
A disaster outdoors this time of year.

The best paint to use is whatever you get good results with, which varies from person to person.
Best boat I've ever painted was with ordinary Dulux polyurethane liquid gloss.
It looked OK 5 years later.
YMMV!
Click to expand...

Hot dry summers day.

Traditional paints simply do not stand up to UV and weather long term - this is why there is 2 pack.

Nothing wrong with polyurethanes - it is just a less robust product.

Mind you any paint used in the wrong conditions isnt going to serve you well, 2 pack may be just less forgiving of the conditions.
 
dankilb said:
Can I just quickly ask which paint you've been using for the interior?!

I've mentioned this in a few recent posts on interior paint threads, but I'm looking to paint over various surfaces (some GRP some ply) and want something fully waterproof (e.g. in the heads), but also resistant to wear/oil etc. (in the saloon).

I'm a big fan of rolling 2-pack and flatting off between coats etc. So far most responses to my posts have - undersandbly! - said 'go for regular interior house paint'. But I'm looking for something of equivalent aesthetic and wear qualities as the original (interior) gelcoat, for instance, and I know that Sandolin etc. won't stand up to that.

TIA and sorry for the thread hijack!
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We are using an off white car two pack from our local car paint supplier. The colour is Blanco
Puro. The paint is made by Churchill paints. We have 40% matt as we want it to look like an eggshell finish. The matt finish hides imperfections. The two pack gives us a durable finish. We found this paint rolls best with no thinners. We also tested a number of foam rollers and found Wickes gloss rollers were the best. We also dont tip it. Tried that but we get a better finish without tipping. It is as close to a spray finish as you can get. Very pleased with the results
 
geem said:
We are using an off white car two pack from our local car paint supplier. The colour is Blanco
Puro. The paint is made by Churchill paints. We have 40% matt as we want it to look like an eggshell finish. The matt finish hides imperfections. The two pack gives us a durable finish. We found this paint rolls best with no thinners. We also tested a number of foam rollers and found Wickes gloss rollers were the best. We also dont tip it. Tried that but we get a better finish without tipping. It is as close to a spray finish as you can get. Very pleased with the results
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Nice one, ta!

I’ve got a few options in mind that I think could work with that method. I’ve rolled a van with 2k urethane advertised as ‘satin’ and that went on best rolled carefully and not tipped.

Will start a thread when it gets closer up the to-do-list.
 
seadog30 said:
Hi

I painted my 30 foot hull with one pot International Toplac nearly 10 years ago, people still think that it was a spray finish
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I used to Hand Paint Vans when I had a bodyshop (40 years ago) Perhaps 200 over a 10 year period.
You can get a decent finish by hand painting.
Also I was using 2 pack paint before International started marketing it for boats.
I have always hand painted hulls up to the bootline with 2 pack and although a roller is quicker a brush puts more paint on, as you are using it as a protection not for a cosmetic finish.
I would certainly use 2 pack in the topsides. I found that bought from a Car Pain Supplier the 2 pack colour of white is Ford Diamond White. And I used Acetone to thin it down.
I rememeber once taking a hand painted Transit van to a garage for an Mot, and another paint sprayer was there and he looked at the van and asked
"What paint did you use when you sprayed the van ?"
I replied "I have brushed it"
He said.. "If you have brushed that I will swap you my spray gun for your brush" !!!!!
The main advantage of brushing a Transit Van was that I could do it with 1 litre of paint (non 2 Pack) and not doing the roof.) which would take 3 hours.
 
Jim@sea said:
I used to Hand Paint Vans when I had a bodyshop (40 years ago) Perhaps 200 over a 10 year period.
You can get a decent finish by hand painting.
Also I was using 2 pack paint before International started marketing it for boats.
I have always hand painted hulls up to the bootline with 2 pack and although a roller is quicker a brush puts more paint on, as you are using it as a protection not for a cosmetic finish.
I would certainly use 2 pack in the topsides. I found that bought from a Car Pain Supplier the 2 pack colour of white is Ford Diamond White. And I used Acetone to thin it down.
I rememeber once taking a hand painted Transit van to a garage for an Mot, and another paint sprayer was there and he looked at the van and asked
"What paint did you use when you sprayed the van ?"
I replied "I have brushed it"
He said.. "If you have brushed that I will swap you my spray gun for your brush" !!!!!
The main advantage of brushing a Transit Van was that I could do it with 1 litre of paint (non 2 Pack) and not doing the roof.) which would take 3 hours.
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Very, very impressed.
 
PCUK said:
If you apply enough two pack you can cut and polish it to give the spray finish, Check with makers as not all are compoundable.
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That's what I did. I found tipping off impossible working outside alone. Just rolling on then cutting back was a lot more work but also a lot less stressful as you dont really need to worry about a perfect finish.
 
ive just bought 2 pack for the top and bottom so will be spending a few more days sanding to get rid of the rest of the primer from the undercoat on the bottom.

how its looking so far still a fair bit of bottom primer to be removed but its looking like a 2 pack paint as as its very hard to sand off.
 
The Dutch yard where we kept our boat for a few years did a fair bit of their trade painting boats. The finish they achieved was extraordinary and at first I thought they were sprayed, but it turned out they were all done with brush and roller. They used Epiphanes 2-pack. Boats up to 40' were done in the shop, larger ones out in the open. I could not discern any difference in finish between indoor/outdoor work.
 
I have used epifanes paints for years, top notch stuff, the last 2 pack i used was on our Sabre 27, Epifanes rolled & tipped & i was asked several times "Who sprayed it". Still looks good years later.
As for car paint, 2pack car paint is usually acrylic not polyurethane & It still uses an isocyanate hardener, it sprays very differently to poly & goes off much faster. It is also not as hard as a club member found out. Having paid to have his boat sprayed with car paint it did not last & had to be sanded right back & redone.
As for carbon filtered masks, The danger level for isocyanate is low & as soon as a carbon filter comes out of its bag it starts absorbing chenicals from the air, they do not last long & if you are indoors with heavy fumes you might not get half an hour out of a filter. If you can smell the fumes the filter is done. Bottom line is you cant grow a new pair of lungs.
 
Rhylsailer99 said:
ive just bought 2 pack for the top and bottom so will be spending a few more days sanding to get rid of the rest of the primer from the undercoat on the bottom.

how its looking so far still a fair bit of bottom primer to be removed but its looking like a 2 pack paint as as its very hard to sand off.
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I have recently tried rubbing the primer with paint thinners to no effect so it looks like a 2 pack primer. I have time to keep removing more and I'm hoping the hull is dry enough as no osmosis and its been out of the water since October now.
 
I've got a full face respirator, which filters would be best for isocyanates? The 3M website wasn't very helpful, they just said that when spraying you should use an air supply, and if brushing you shouldn't need anything.
 
"Shipboard and laboratory trials were conducted to determine airborne occupational exposure to isocyanates by brush/roller application of 2-pack polyurethane paints. Airborne concentrations in the breathing zones of the operators were found to be <0.1 μg/m3 during the paint application to a vessel deck, in a tropical climate, in the open air. Similarly, brush/roller application of the paints in an enclosed space generated airborne isocyanate concentrations <3 μg/m3. The dust generated during light sanding of the polyurethane paint, 24 h after curing, did not show detectable levels of isocyanates."

and this

0.02mg/m3

"In the USA, for example, the Federal Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) has set a maximum airborne 'Permissible Exposure Limit' (PEL) for individual isocyanates of 0.02mg/m3."

It would seem that 3M are correct in their assessment when it comes to brushed application.

I am no expert in this field so happy to be corrected as ever.
 
PCUK said:
If you apply enough two pack you can cut and polish it to give the spray finish, Check with makers as not all are compoundable.
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I did the bottom of a sailing dinghy in International two pack. Indeed, with wet and dry 400 and 600 grade and then a cutting polish you can get a superb hard mirror finish.
 
ip485 said:
"Shipboard and laboratory trials were conducted to determine airborne occupational exposure to isocyanates by brush/roller application of 2-pack polyurethane paints. Airborne concentrations in the breathing zones of the operators were found to be <0.1 μg/m3 during the paint application to a vessel deck, in a tropical climate, in the open air. Similarly, brush/roller application of the paints in an enclosed space generated airborne isocyanate concentrations <3 μg/m3. The dust generated during light sanding of the polyurethane paint, 24 h after curing, did not show detectable levels of isocyanates."

and this

0.02mg/m3

"In the USA, for example, the Federal Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) has set a maximum airborne 'Permissible Exposure Limit' (PEL) for individual isocyanates of 0.02mg/m3."

It would seem that 3M are correct in their assessment when it comes to brushed application.

I am no expert in this field so happy to be corrected as ever.
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ive bought a paint that is free from isocyanates jotun ca , i hope its ok fingers crossed
 
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