I will try that method first, did you apply heat to the bolts firat?I never had any difficulty removing BUKH flywheel bolts using this much cheaper alternative
No.I will try that method first, did you apply heat to the bolts firat?
And a couple of fat blokes standing on the endAllen key and scaffold pole?![]()
You will need to secure the flywheel from rotating if you use an Allen key. I wrap a few turns of light rope around the perimeter and tie it off to the engine bearer. I use an Allen key adaptor with my long socket set tommy bar. You will need a torque wrench to do the bolts up again, afterwards. I have heard that you shouldn't re-use the bolts, but I can't find any reference to this in the Bukh service manual so I have reused them a couple of times, now, - my flywheel hasn't fallen off!
I have found, in this sort of situation, that sharply tapping the end of any lever used with a hammer to be more effective than simple leverage.And a couple of fat blokes standing on the end![]()
I have found, in this sort of situation, that sharply tapping the end of any lever used with a hammer to be more effective than simple leverage.
Thats what I was thinking. I will try heat and a socket wrench 1st. Maybe I can do the job without even removing it at all, vut I doubt that.IF that achieves the claimed figures then be aware it's easily capable of shearing bolts clean off - my similarly specced dewalt certainly can (and has). Heat, then alternate short bursts of tighten/loosen.
As above - consider it a last resort, especially if the tool is new to you.
I cannot see heat being effective at all. Presumably the threads are seized in some way, by corrosion or thread lock. Heating the bolt heads cannot reach the threads until the whole flywheel is red hot.Thats what I was thinking. I will try heat and a socket wrench 1st. Maybe I can do the job without even removing it at all, vut I doubt that.
By the way, what is the job you want to do, that you think you might be able to do without removing the flywheel?Thats what I was thinking. I will try heat and a socket wrench 1st. Maybe I can do the job without even removing it at all, vut I doubt that.
Engine mounts are shot at, and where they bolt into the fiberglass the bolts turn to dust, only the top quarter of the bolt comes out.By the way, what is the job you want to do, that you think you might be able to do without removing the flywheel?
If it is removing/replacing the cooling water branch, that can be done without removing the flywheel; using a hex key with its short leg shortened.
If it is renewing the engine mounts, then removing the flywheel certainly makes the job much easier.
Maybe if you put some serious current through it, using a starter battery, there would be some localised resistive heating at the threads. If youu can get a carbon arc electrode that would avoid any risk of welding your contactor inplace. Probably prudent to take precautions re the battery explodingI cannot see heat being effective at all. Presumably the threads are seized in some way, by corrosion or thread lock. Heating the bolt heads cannot reach the threads until the whole flywheel is red hot.