Is it normal for a deisel to take a while to start if its been stood?

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julians

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Im not too familiar with the foibles of deisels,so when I got to the boat today the engine took a good 20/30 revolutions to get started. It had been stood for 8 weeks which is probably the longest ive left it. Normally it starts on the 2nd or 3Rd revolution.

It turned over at a good rate so the battery is fine,and once it started it would restart on the 2nd/3Rd revolution as usual.

Engine is a vp d4.

Just wondering if this is indicative of a problem building,or just normal after being stood for 8 weeks.
 
When this has happened to me it has been due to a problem. Mine start after one or two turns even if left for ten weeks if all is good.
One time it was because of glow plug not working, other time due to loose fuel line at the pump.
 
No experience with the D4 but sounds like a potential problem. My Kad 44's only do that after work on the fuel line and air needs to be purged out of the fuel system. Maybe minor air leak?
 
Cheers, will check the various fuel line fittings including spin on filters etc.

I had similar on a mercruiser v8 petrol,and the spin on fuel filter hadnt been tightened up fully.

However with this engine no work has been done since I last used the boat,so shouldnt be due to incorrectly fitted service items
 
Sounds like a loose fuel fitting .Over time 8 weeks or so the liquid seeps out through air entering the loose bit .
Multiple turnover enventually sucks it back up .
Overnight or 10 mins later it's still full so starts ok .
You should see the oilly stain somewhere ,just nip up the fuel unions / bleed screws and all other conections .
They vibrate loose -what was loosened off last service ?
 
After 12 years of having totally reliable fuel injected V8 5.7 petrols, the D4-300 I have now seems a delicate thing; I expected a diesel to be more robust and cheaper overall than a petrol engine with similar HP. It isn't ! Nice enough, but a lot cruder than the same boat with a 8.1 big block V8 petrol.
 
In my experience, unlike petrol engines, happy diesels tend to start almost instantaneously, and anything else is an indicator of a problem. Having to churn away with the starter does not sound right at all.
 
Well I checked all the unions along the fuel line,and theyre all fine, all the spin on filters are tight.

It started first time this morning after being left overnight.

I will mention it to the chap who services it for me, as no doubt it is an indicator of something amiss.
 
Surely there's something up there? My KAD300's, after being laid up for winter, start on 2nd / 3rd revolution
 
Tr
julians said:
Well I checked all the unions along the fuel line,and theyre all fine, all the spin on filters are tight.

It started first time this morning after being left overnight.

I will mention it to the chap who services it for me, as no doubt it is an indicator of something amiss.
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Started as normal this morning? Sounds good to me. It just needed a bit of fuel pumped in after leaving it for some time.
 
rafiki_ said:
Tr
Started as normal this morning? Sounds good to me. It just needed a bit of fuel pumped in after leaving it for some time.
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Yes,it was back to normal this morning. Will mention it to the mechanic just in case,but will just put it down to one of those things for now.
 
sounds like usual, I have diesels in boat, car, van, & toy, now the temp has dropped they need time for the glow plugs to come up to heat unless it has a fast heat system like mitsubisi. in the warmer weather this is not so important as the fuel is a bit thinner, as is the sump oil. (pumps & cranks easier)
As it gets colder here sometimes it is better to preheat the glow plugs by switching the ignition on + off a few times before cranking. This is perfectly normal and no cause for concern.
If you do have an air leak, it may not drip or even outwardly show any sign of a diesel leak, but it never hurts to look for one, a common oversight on diesels are the "leak pipes" (injector overfuel return) they perish and allow air to enter the system while the engine is at rest. if they are push on rubber, they are simple to check, rubber should be flexible, if they are rubber and hard then they are due for replacing. The best bit is it is laughably cheap pipe but almost always overlooked.
 
pebbledashed said:
s if they are push on rubber, they are simple to check, rubber should be flexible, if they are rubber and hard then they are due for replacing. The best bit is it is laughably cheap pipe but almost always overlooked.
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I learnt to treat them as a service item and change them with the oil.

Any one remember the Escort 1600 DI diesel? Pupils at wrok seemed to have fun pushing me around the yard trying to get the beast started despite having the best battery that fitted and money could buy.
 
OP was quoting 30/40 revolutions! After that so much misinformation.

#1 Modern engines are DI except little puddle jumper motors which start up first bump at normal UK ambient temperatures without pre heat.

#2 Electronic engines will turn over a couple of times until sensors record all present and correct before fuel solenoid opens.

#3 Next step for troubleshooting, install clear lines on feed and return, crank over and look for bubbles.

All so simple
 
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