Iron on Veneer

Really difficult to reveneer vertical surfaces like bulkheads. Most can be brought back by stripping off the old finish, cleaning the veneer surface with oxalid acid, using colouring to even out the colour and recoating with a satin finish. Alternatively if the veneer has gone, consider painting a solid light colour and trimming in hardwood. Can look good and better than dingy dark veneers.
 
Tranona said:
Really difficult to reveneer vertical surfaces like bulkheads. Most can be brought back by stripping off the old finish, cleaning the veneer surface with oxalid acid, using colouring to even out the colour and recoating with a satin finish. Alternatively if the veneer has gone, consider painting a solid light colour and trimming in hardwood. Can look good and better than dingy dark veneers.
Click to expand...

The combination of an off white wall and varnished trim is very classy.
 
Thanks both. You've described the plan i had before I saw these veneers... so I'll stick with it. I've got plenty of Iroko for making some nice trims.
 
I've used it but its very brittle and susceptible to coming apart along exposed edges over time plus with iron on you have no way of knowing if the bond is uniform or not, i.e; heat distributed well, i suggest you go to valeveneers.co.uk get yourself an 8 x 4 sheet of something and a bottle of d4 5 min pva glue roll the glue on the sheet then place veneer on bulkhead keep rolling then with a fresh clean roller (no glue) over the veneer for another few mins until the pva' grabbed.

Another alternative is super high tack industrial tape (commonly known as worktop tape and available on ebay for £25 for 50 metres) instead of pva on said veneer. Have just finished capping and veneering my new settee berth on my Centaur although i used 5 min pva to veneer the tops and bottoms of each locker lid. This tape buggered up a curved piece such was the strength of the tapes bond as can be seen in the photo below; light filler on the curved part of settee, the tapes bond to the ply was stronger than the ply to foam using epoxy!
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That's the yellow tape you see above that the veneers are held on with, i also capped the locker lids (in white oak) with the same tape before pva'ing the lids with 1.5mm ply.

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Roger
 
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OTOH you don't have to use dingy dark veneers. PBO ran a good article on veneering about a year ago so I decided to have a go. Photo shows our first attempt. The veneer is not iron-on, it is stuck with a contact adhesive. The tin we used was rather old and we had some problems with it, hence the slightly lumpy finish. There are very many veneer suppliers on Ebay offering some spectacular finishes, some of them almost white. I have used iron-on strips which worked very well, the trick is to get plenty of heat into the veneer, which will hold it for ever.
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I have used Vale veneers, some iron on and some contact glue,
see below the trim around the deck-head to bulkhead is all iron on veneer,
The chart table lid and front are both sheet veneer glued on (all from Vale veneers).

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One thing to remember when ironing on wood veneer, is to have something between the iron and veneer, cloth or paper, this will minimise the chance of scorching the veneer, once scorched it's beggered.
 
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