Iroko vs Teak ?

Boo2

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Hi,

What are the differences between iroko and teak for external use on a yacht ? I've seen several references to iroko cockpit "embellishments" (seat tops etc) and wondered how it compares with teak ? Do they ever use iroko for decking in the same way as teak ?

Thanks,

Boo2
 
Have a look in this month's PBO - there is a comprehensive article on woods.

Basically Iroko is considered "poor mans teak". It is similar colour, not so durable but still good and most importantly 60% of the price (typically). Main drawback is that it can be difficult to work because of interlocking grain and has a habit of twisting when cut into strips. Not stable enough for decking.

BTW teak was first became popular for decks in the 20's and 30's in the US because it was cheaper than local woods (US turn to plunder rain forests!) and did not need any finishing so saved on labour. Has now become an expensive affectation following 1980's attempts by builders to hide the blandness of GRP.
 
My boat is built out of iroko except than when built she had a teak deck. I have never heard of iroko being used for a deck but I suppose it has. The difference with iroko is that it has a tendency to a slightly wild grain so it may not look as even as teak. I don't think it 'greys' as nicely as teak. That said my cockpit seat tops are iroko, the cockpit sides are etc. The teak deck has not survived but that was more to do with the quality of the screws originally used which rotted and led to the deck water tightness failing. Both iroko and teak can be difficult to varnish (need to get rid of the oil). Personally I would not use iroko for decking but then I wouldn't use teak (and don't anymore).
 
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Iroko has a shorter grain structure than teak so when steaming (like rubbing strakes) the ends of the grain fibres can "poke out" a bit. Sometimes it can split if trying to bend it too much.
I think it's a bit like sapele with the grain "rubbing up" in bands when power planed. I've just used some sapele for a rudder blade and after being put through a planer/thicknesser it has a few of those patches where the grain has rubbed up.. Not insurmountable and will sand down. I think iroko is similar, but I have found it easy to work and chisel.
 
Have jut used iroko for new toe rail, and for keel protection under a new keel band. In our yard its used extensivly would love teak but who can afford such luxuries today. Varnishing the toe rail was a no no, and was advised to let it silver up. I let it go but didnt like the effect, so rubbed it down and used teak oil on it, now looks fine three coats later. any bad grain was sanded down with a machine, it does the trick quite well.
 
One word of caution. Iroko dust is extremely irritating. I bought a large plank and asked a woodworking shop to split it into strips. One of the operatives declined as he explained it caused his face to bleed. I can believe it.
 
Having built lots of things from Iroko there is lots of natural oil in Iroko like teak.

In fact it is the oil that is extremely irritating as pointed out by Graham_Wright.
 
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