Inverter help!

mikecontessa26

Well-Known Member
Joined
23 Jul 2008
Messages
248
Visit site
Hi, i've got a problem with inverters, i'm now on my second one in 2 weeks, i bought a new inverter in Brindisi Italy but am now in Croatia and the thing has decided to give up. The red error light flashes, I know it has enough power and the power is not too high so not sure why it's not working. It makes a strange relay clicking noise and draws a lot of current in burts as I see my battery voltage fluctuate or cabin lightin flashing.

Anyone got any ideas? I'm not sure where id get a new one in Croatia but am reluctant to do so anyway in case I blow another.

Thanks

Mike
 
Ok - quick questions ...

What make/model/power of inverter
How is it wired into the boats system - length & size of 12v cable run
What are you trying to run on it (+ it's power requirements if known)

The Red Light error generally means it's overloaded - ie it cannot support that level of power - strange clicking noise sounds more like the laptop powerpacks - probably the same tech - battery voltage fluctuate or cabin light flashing sounds odd - you're not trying to run a battery charger are you :o :p
 
response

Hi, the DC cable is minimal, the manufacturers supplied cable less than 1m in length. I'm not trying to run it under any load ust turning it on gives the error light and the clicking is definately from the inverter. Sounds broken! No battery charger or engine running, even with engine it doesn't work. Have tried it on the engine battery and same problem.

Thanks
 
Hi, the DC cable is minimal, the manufacturers supplied cable less than 1m in length. I'm not trying to run it under any load ust turning it on gives the error light and the clicking is definately from the inverter. Sounds broken! No battery charger or engine running, even with engine it doesn't work. Have tried it on the engine battery and same problem.

Thanks
It sounds broken ... if it was just one that acted like this then I'd say it was a bust unit for definate - but two - whilst it could still be bust unit it still smacks of something else wrong ...
I would change the DC cables and wire directly to the battery (ideally should be fused, but if it is temporary and you can remove the cable quickly then it won't matter) with short cable run. Then test with a desk lamp or something low power, but runs on mains voltage.

But, on reflection - if it's giving you DC power fluctuations as well and you're sure there's nothing wrong with the DC lead - then I'd say ditch it ... it's knackered ...
 
Thanks for your quick response fireball, as I thought it's broken, 70 euros down the pan!

Now I need to find a new one in Croatia :-(

Thanks again
 
The spec for the 600W inverter includes the following words

With the new Soft-Start technology used by the latest generation inverter, the inverter circuit inside before providing output voltage control makes the load connected to it, and only in case the power required and the type of load is appropriate is enabled the output to 220V AC
This check takes about 10 seconds, after which the output voltage is made to increase according to a chart ramp from 0V to 220V quickly, so that current ideas are avoided which could cause damage to the drive and disturbances of nature electric line.
Soft-Start technology is indispensable in case of use of inductive loads (refrigerators, power tools or electric motors in general) which at the moment require a high starting current
.

I wonder if the problem is to do with this soft start technology? Before you bin it, it might be worth a couple more tests.

Firstly, try it with a small AC load (a 240V table lamp say) connected before you connect the inverter.

If you get the same symptoms, then measure the voltage on the DC supply leads. If it drops below 10.5V then the inverter will drop out (and it would indicate a ropey 12V battery!).

Clutching at straws maybe, but the chances of having 2 defective units in 2 weeks go way beyond plain bad luck.
 
Top