Interior wood glue - any recommendations?

MYStargazer

MYStargazer

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I'm thinking of parts which will carry quite heavy loads - and need to be really quite strong.

Have thought about epoxy, but is there anything cheaper and more suited to confined spaces?

When I was a lad we used Cascamite for eveything. Seemingly, it's still made - but is it still good stuff or have the jobsworths turned it into wallpaper paste?!

Is 'stronger than wood' PVA glue any stronger nowadays? Does it degrade in damp environments?
 
The polyurethane glues (like Gorilla) are very useful.

Just be careful not to believe all the hype that comes with them - they are not gap filling and require either fasteners or clamping to prevent the foaming 'blowing' the joints apart. But with those provisos, they are really useful.
 
TimBennet said:
The polyurethane glues (like Gorilla) are very useful.

Just be careful not to believe all the hype that comes with them - they are not gap filling and require either fasteners or clamping to prevent the foaming 'blowing' the joints apart. But with those provisos, they are really useful.
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It is very very messy, i would prefer cascamite
amazon have it
[h=1]Cascamite Powdered Resin Wood Glue 220g[/h]
 
I use PVA for lightly loaded inside woodwork. Heavy loaded or exterior is only use polyurethane like balcotan.

My wood dingy is held together with only polyurethane wood glue no screws holding the wood together for 10 years now.

40 years ago I used to use Cascamite but not for anything that can be submersed.
 
sailorman said:
It is very very messy, i would prefer cascamite... amazon have it ...
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http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0001OZI98/dolcetto-21
http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0001OZIA2/dolcetto-21
http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0001OZI8Y/dolcetto-21

Totally agree about the PU Gorilla Glue, messy and uncontrollable. It is essentially low-foaming PU foam. It also goes off after a few months, and I had a bottle explode. Can you imagine how messy that was!
 
Spirit of Glenans said:
They used Cascamite to build the cold-moulded ply structure of the DH Mosquito. It failed testing for a humid tropical environment, so if the interior of your boat is damp it's probably wiser not to use Cascamite there.
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"Cascamite is a waterproof, synthetic resin adhesive for use on general joinery - especially outside woodwork and boat building."
 
Semperoc is the replacement for Balcotan and is not messy nor uncontrollable. Have used it very successfully on interior and exterior (rudder rebuild) so can cope with the damp/wet.
 
nigelmercier said:
"Cascamite is a waterproof, synthetic resin adhesive for use on general joinery - especially outside woodwork and boat building."
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It may be waterproof but it is not submersion proof and was deferentially not recommended for building the hulls boats when I was building wood boats 40 years ago Cascerphen was the recommended for the exterior structure. Cascamite was only used for the interior fittings.

The PU glue I use comes in a 320ml tube the same as sikaflex so is easy to control and like sikaflex storing it in a plastic bag in the freezer stops it going off
 
I use polyurethane glue all the time.It is messy and don't let it touch your skin or you'll have a black stain for a week at least.However it is possible to control the messyness by using small amounts of glue as it goes a long way and spreds well when the joint is clamped ,which it must always be with this glue.
 
northwind said:
No the didn't. They used a glue called Aerolite, it was developed for the purpose of building the Mosquito.

I have a model boat built out of DH scraps and Aerolite glue, it was built for my father by my grandfather who worked for DH at the time.

http://www.seqair.com/skunkworks/Glues/Aerolite/Aerolite.html
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Aerolite that was the other one I was trying to think of, both Aerolite and Cascophen were 2 part glues the main difference was that Aerolite you put one part on one side and the second part on the other side of the joint and it would start setting when the joints came together.

With Cascophen the 2 parts were mixed together powder and liquid and setting would start then so you had limited time to use all the glue before it became unusable.

Casamite is also 2 part but both powders and only start setting when water is added and the 2 powders now liquids mix.

This takes me back some years.
 
Rogershaw said:
Aerolite that was the other one I was trying to think of, both Aerolite and Cascophen were 2 part glues the main difference was that Aerolite you put one part on one side and the second part on the other side of the joint and it would start setting when the joints came together.
Casamite is also 2 part but both powders and only start setting when water is added and the 2 powders now liquids mix.

This takes me back some years.
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Cascamite is a single powder mixed with water approx 2 parts powder 1 part water.
However, you can buy a liquid which is applied to one half of the glued surfaces & cascamite in mixed form to the other.
This gives a very quick "light bond" time & we often used it for speed if we could not use radio frequency glueing
When I had a joinery business i recall that cascamite did not meet the highest grade so often had to use aerolite or similar
I was never really impressed with aerolite on certain hardwoods such as Iroko.
personally i would go for west epoxy with a suitable filler if required
 
Just use Pva ' waterproof' exterior grade and varnish or a coat of paint after.
Cheap, reliable, strong as all get out, easy clean up and sanding...

Never had anything joinery fail yet in years/boats..

Epoxy is wunnerful stuff but messy expensive temperature and moisture sensitive initially, must be mixed exactly and and ...and dislikes UV if used outside. So it ain't the magic cure all!
 
When I said 2 part , what I understand is that it is 2 powders mixed together in the tin but it does not start to set until water is added so the 2 powders each become liquid and mix as liquids together state to set.

It looks like a single white powder but it is in fact 2 white powders in the tin.

But that detail is not very relevant in this discussion.
 
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