Sadleman17
New Member
I have striped the interior wood ( marine ply) back to bare wood any suggestion for best long lasting finish - currently thinking of 2 pack suggestions appreciated
Interior wood coating
- Thread starter Sadleman17
- Start date
Tranona
Well-Known Member
Welcome.
2 pack not necessary for interior work. Tendency now is to have matt or satin finishes. The quick and easy way is to use Ronseal satin polyurethane, but if you are a glutton for hard work and want a really high class finish, then Epifanes gloss with final coat(s) of Rubbed Effect (or International equivalents).
2 pack not necessary for interior work. Tendency now is to have matt or satin finishes. The quick and easy way is to use Ronseal satin polyurethane, but if you are a glutton for hard work and want a really high class finish, then Epifanes gloss with final coat(s) of Rubbed Effect (or International equivalents).
jwilson
Well-Known Member
+1 - satin much nicer for interior than gloss which shows every flaw. But use gloss for first few coats then maybe one or two coats of satin on top. Personally I like about 4-5 coats gloss with very gentle wet sanding twice in the process, before switching to satin, but when I try I can make something look very nice indeed. Since I discovered it last year I'm a big fan of Epifanes Rubbed Effect varnish for the final coats, though still using Ronseal oil-based gloss varnish for undercoats, as I had a big tin.
doug748
Well-Known Member
I have experimented with International Woodskin and found it v good so far. It started life as a Sikkins trade product but it was never cheap and International have not ramped up the price too much. The finish is satin/matt, coverage good and it does not darken the wood too much. It is very easy to apply and only needs two coats.
One advantage is that you can use the same stuff for exterior wood, five years on your toerail may translate to 20 years indoors, we shall see.
I would use traditional gloss for floors.
One advantage is that you can use the same stuff for exterior wood, five years on your toerail may translate to 20 years indoors, we shall see.
I would use traditional gloss for floors.
Topcat47
Well-Known Member
Sadolin is excellent. I refresh mine every three years or so. better than varnishing. Light oak on Teak is fine, but other colours are available. They don't do "colourless" any more but you need something that is very light if you have a darkish wood, otherwise it can get oppressive. Avoid "antique pine".
northwind
Well-Known Member
Osmo Poly X - easy to apply and easy to top up if required.
S
Scorcher1
Guest
I have a similiar requirement. My thoughts are that if your boat was built in the last 30 years then the factory finish of the interior woodwork is probably sprayed lacquer. It may be possible to achieve a similiar finish with varnish. I may experiment with Ronseal and several thin coats …when I was training to be a DT teacher, some 35 years ago, the college sourced a two pack commercial lacquer all the students used. It came in large drums and produce amazing finishes on fine woodwork. Unfortunately I have no idea where to source this lacquer, although I'm pretty sure it would be a good match on my Jeanneau. Some years ago I have sourced something similiar from John Boddys in Boroughbridge. …although the lacquer was designed to be sprayed I remember applying it with a piece of cloth very successfully. If I source something succesful I will post again.
KAM
Well-Known Member
My boat has machine applied lacquer. I get an exact match by mixing ronseal matt and ronseal satin 50/50. The thin oil based stuff. Its just about impossible to see the join when touching up. I have some areas which are getting a bit thin and was trying to think of a surface prep which does not involve sanding as once you hit bare wood the colour change necessitates stripping the whole panel. Would sugar soap work. Has anyone tried it. Are there any chemical methods of achieving a suitable key.
KREW2
Well-Known Member
Seconded! once you have used it you wont use anything else
It is expensive but goes a long way. I was getting fed up of our oak kitchen worktop getting stained, danish oil is just not protective enough.
Having used Osmo Poly X on our floors I was very impressed, when I found out it was food safe I sanded down the worktops and applied Osmo Poly X.
Fantastic! just don't do as I did, and apply like varnish it can take weeks to dry.
Storyline
Well-Known Member
Agree on the Epifanes Rubbed Effect. Tried many different varnishes on test pieces of Sapele before beginning our renovation and liked the warm glow of the Epifanes the best.
Edit: not sure about the two pack idea as it may be a bit of a poisoned chalice for any future owner if they want to strip it all off. Storyline must have been sprayed with a conventional varnish when she was built at a guess and I can strip it easily with a hot air blower and a sharp blade (takes a bit of practice not to gouge the wood).
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Piddy
Well-Known Member
7 years ago I stripped the plywood in the galley area as I could see water starting to penetrate the surface near to the sinks.
5 coats of single pack polyurethane and 2 satin has left a durable finish that looks as good today as when I did it. Now whenever I give any woodwork attention, that's what it gets.
Piddy
5 coats of single pack polyurethane and 2 satin has left a durable finish that looks as good today as when I did it. Now whenever I give any woodwork attention, that's what it gets.
Piddy
LittleSister
Well-Known Member
What's the advantage of doing the lower coats in gloss if you're finishing with satin?
Piddy
Well-Known Member
The satin is softer so not as resilient as the polyurethane - at least that's what International said at that time. Now of course I see there is Goldspar satin Polyurethane. Next time, I'll probably use that.
I do note that the single pot Polyurethane allows 2 coats per day with rubbing down between 2nd or third coats allowing a quicker build up
I do note that the single pot Polyurethane allows 2 coats per day with rubbing down between 2nd or third coats allowing a quicker build up
Kwik Decision
Well-Known Member
I understood it was because the satin was more opaque than gloss, so if you did lots of coats of satin you would obliterate the grain.
Alternatively, if you were feeling cynical, you may think it was to get you to buy two tins of varnish rather than one!
