interior re-varnish (rather patchy finish !!)

[seascape]

Advice please!
Just started light sanding to interior and applying International Goldspar. Previous owners did a great job (I think they used Sadolin) on our Sadler. Now needs a re coat to keep on top of it.
I struggled (without success) to find appropriate name / code/supplier of Sadolin, so thought the Goldspar would be okay.
However the forepeak insert seems to have dried patchy after 3 coats (some matt some more like gloss ). Questions- Is the Sadolin water based ? If so can I apply Goldspar over it ? If it's oil based shouldn't the Golspar take quite easily ? Does anyone know where in N West/N Wales where I can buy the correct type of Sadolin (If that's what I need ) and what is the correct trade name/code number ?
I did a search and found quite mixed views on the merits of varnish v's water based. Wouldn't water based be as tough and less noxious to apply?
Thanks for any help.

 

[sailorman]

Oils ok over water based after 2 / 3 weeks drying time

 

[Honey]

Sadolin products are mainly oil based with only a small number of water based products. Try here for product details and outlets. http://www.crowndecoratorcentre.co.uk/en/home/

 

[Danny Jo]

Let what you've done dry thoroughly - say 10 days at current temperatures, then wet and dry lightly with 180-240 grade and apply another coat of Goldspar.

But using traditional varnishes strikes me as akin to using sealing wax to seal your mail. (i.e. OK if you are a stickler for authenticity.) For bits you haven't done yet, get a can of the cheapest polyurethane gloss varnish from the local DIY store. You'll get a better result.

 

[Bob_Ranft]

Re: interior re-varnish (rather patchy finish !!)(seascrape)

Last year I applied four coats of International satin finish varnish to the interior of a Prout catamaran. The main bulkheads in this cat are approximately 15 ft wide. Due to botched varnish jobs over the years, many areas had to be stripped back to bare wood. After the fourth coat had been applied to the bulkheads and other large areas the result was almost acceptable, apart from fine brush marks. Very lightly sanded these off several days later and stepped back to ponder what to do to obtain a brush mark free finish.

Somehow got to thinking about my mate's father, who used to be a french polisher. He worked in the ship yards on the Tyne and basically all ships cabins etc. were varnished / french polished out and there was not a brush in sight. All sticky liquids applied by a pad.

So a new tack cloth was pressed into service - final thin coat of varnish was applied by making a pad out of this cloth. Result - 15 ft wide bulkheads etc. varnished in less than a tenth of the time taken by brush - not a brush mark or a streak in sight.

Think me mate's father was looking over the edge of his cloud on that day.

May the force be with you brothers

 

[Pasarell]

Best place to get Sadolin will be Crown Decorator Centre as both are owned by Akzo Nobel (as are International Paint). Most Sadolin products are oil based and I expect that is where the reaction with Goldspar comes from. Goldspar solvent base may be different to Sadolin and there is some reaction.
Getting a straight answer on this may be a problem though!

 

[Danny Jo]

Re: interior re-varnish (rather patchy finish !!)(seascrape)

For my floorboards, I some used International two pack varnish that I had had knocking around for about 10 years. I put it on with a roller, which was fine once I had discovered that cheap minirollers loose more fibre than known-brand ones.

By the time I had 4 coats on the lovely hard gloss was somewhat upset by the accumulated debris - roller fibres, legs of flies and midges, and ordinary dust. So I figured, rub it down with wet and dry, and apply an ordinary floor polish. The wet sanding wasn't a problem, but finding a floor polish proved more difficult, so I used a wax finishing polish. BIG MISTAKE, especially as my trial piece was the bit at the foot of the companionway. It was more slippery than a smooth, slime-covered launching slip. Now I'm trying to figure out how to extract all the polish from my carefully abraded surface.

 

[seascape]

Re: interior re-varnish (rather patchy finish !!)(seascrape)

Thanks for all the advice.
We have tracked down Sadolin Quick Dry Satin Interior hope this will be okay ! My wife is collecting 2.5l tomorrow !
I'll probably use the Goldspar on the cabin sole in future years.
Richard

 

[steve123]

According to the Sadler handbook Sadolin Clear Satin was used originally. I bought some of this in 2004 but when I went to get some more a a year later I was told it had been discontinued and replaced with a water based version (still called Sadolin Clear Satin). I've used this and it been fine. It dries faster (touch dry 1 hour, overcoat in 3 to 4) and there are less drips than the original stuff. The options are either their Quick Drying Varnish or Polyurethane Varnish which I used(for a slightly more hardwearing finish).

Their website advice says:
'A water-borne coating is generally more flexible than a solvent-borne one, and the general rule if in any doubt, is "Preferably recoat water-borne with water-borne". Provided, however, that the existing finish is sound and fully dry, there is no problem with overcoating solvent-borne with water-borne or water-borne with solvent-borne.'

I also did the cabin sole and used a Sadolin product called PV67. Again this is the same as was used originally and gives good results. This is two pack sovent based and the application conditions (temperature and humidity) are quite strict.

 

[pyrojames]

But not the same depth of colour. I find the DIY urethanes to be very"clear" and give little classic golden coulr to the timber. I always us an traditional alkyd based varnish. A full weeks work to do a cabin.