Interior Re-upholstery

[Hydrozoan]

We currently intend to re-upholster ourselves (using an artifical suede specified for marine use) and in the process split long seats and backs for easier access to storage. We are now considering the underlining and closures for the seat cushions.

The ‘standard’ underlining material is a breathable vinyl, and the current upholstery seems to have something like that; but it is 20 years old – would it then have been breathable, I wonder? Zips are fitted along the centres of the underlinings, and condensation lines occur beneath them.

Do people with more modern boats also find condensation lines under zips, or is that showing that our existing underlinings are not breathable?

Would closure using Velcro be practicable, as the current zip arrangement does not make it easy to get the covers off and on (though it would be easier with smaller cushions, of course)? Or would zips be best, but in the back edges of the cushions?

Any thoughts on these issues – or on interior re-upholstery in general – would be welcomed.

 

[Concerto]

Have a look at Hawke House for your fabrics. http://www.hawkehouse.co.uk They will make up or supply everything you need. They would be best to ask about underlinings.

For seating the zips are normally on the side of a cushion, not underneath. So this will stop the condensation lines and make fitting the cover over the foam easier. Do not use Velcro for fixing the cover openings, always use a zip as Velcro can catch on so many other loose weave fabrics like jumpers and can be more of a problem than a solution.

When talking with them at the boat show about re-upholstering my boat, they recommended the microcare fabrics http://www.hawkehouse.co.uk/upholstery-curtain/microcare-upholstery.html. They had a nice feel and do breath, plus they had a good range to choose from.

 

[Ruffles]

In my experience plastic zips with metal sliders WILL eventually corrode. I've replaced the sliders on mine but many are seized up again despite copious vaseline.

Our cushions have some sort of synthetic hessian-like material underneath to allow the foam to air. Seems to work. But we always up-end cushions when leaving the boat to avoid mould. The foam is covered in netting to make it easier to get the covers on.

Velcro would be great but you'll use more fabric for the overlap? However someone on this forum mentioned that special upholstery zips with plastic sliders are available.

Why not call someone like Kayospruce for advice?

PS: I've been meaning to add a layer of denser foam to the saloon berth/seats. I think foam you lie on is generally softer than the sort you sit on.

 

[Hydrozoan]

Thanks to both - interesting observations. Yes, marine upholstery suppliers typically stock a breathable grey vinyl underlining (e.g. that by Nautolex) and our existing covers (professionally made) have something that looks rather like it - but they may not have been breathable 20 years ago. I just wondered how well the modern breathable underlinings work, and if the zip lines still showed condensation, because Mrs H had (1) commented on the condensation lines and wanted to try to do better this time, (2) suggested that Velcro might make cover removal easier.

I take the points about Velcro potentially catching clothes, and requiring a little bit more fabric. But I think on the underside/back of seats or the bottom of backs it would be out of the way, and we have plenty of fabric - we managed to acquire a 'bin end' of high quality artificial suede of marine grade, the result apparently of end-of-season design change! If we go the zip route, we'll look carefully at composition - we replaced them once soon after buying the boat, and keep the upholstery well-aired and dehumidified in winter. I'll also look into foam choices. We are taking particular care as it will be a lot of work and we want to get it right - the last time we'll be doing it! And the opportunity to make easier access to cave and underberth storage appeals, even though it does involve some re-design.

 

[nigelmercier]

Have a look at Hawke House for your fabrics. http://www.hawkehouse.co.uk ...

They also do an excellent upholstery course. By doing the course you get discount on your next order, and a very useful kit. See my review: http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?376009-Boat-Upholstery-Course-at-Hawke-House

 

[Hydrozoan]

Thanks, Nigel. Mrs H is reasonably nifty with sewing but a specialist course could be a very good idea - I will show her your thread and hope she doesn't get the needle!

 

[doug748]

"Any thoughts on these issues – or on interior re-upholstery in general – would be welcomed. "



Not sure I can help a great deal but here goes.

My vinyl cushions have started to go iffy in the high use areas. Here is a snap:

View attachment 45847

You can see on the aft stbd side, the spot that gets most use. Still not bad after 35 years so it is worth getting the best materials you can. I took that cushion to an upholster and he said the foam inner was still perfect so you will may not need to start from scratch. Those cushions are covered on four sides and closed by stitching which is very clever and unobtrusive, on the bottom/back edge. I had the two fwd v berths re done and the upholsterer was able to replicate the stitched closure perfectly. When finished it just looks like the material is interlocked, I have no idea how it is done. With vinyl there is rarely need to remove covers - perhaps you can get away with that with you suede. It is well worth avoiding zips if you can. Velcro often seems to let go, attract fluff and generally fail to do the job long term.

The stuff shown is old school vinyl and yet I have had no trouble with condensation, however the boat is pretty dry and I am usually alone so there is not a full crew puffing and blowing creating water vapour overnight.

I converted the seat back so that they hinge from the bottom and are held by cupboard ball catches - these are good because they can be adjusted to give just the right amount of hold so they are not too stiff yet do not fly open at sea. This was a great improvement and bedding can be stowed away v quickly.

 

[Hydrozoan]

Thanks, Doug - we have a similar boat and layout (Sadler 32). Yes, with care good upholstery lasts well - our velour is still OK after 20 years, but I was tempted by the new material and a long held desire to rationalise the access to storage. I think we've decided on removable covers for the seats in case of spillages (though I've tested the artificial suede with red wine and it sheds/sponges very well) and for the ability to give the whole thing a good clean - the fabric will be more pervious to dust than your vinyl. Yes, the upholstery of the seat backs will probably be fixed, but it is less likely to need such a thorough clean.

I think we could arrange the Velcro so it doesn't get too fluffed up, though that can be a problem - but as you and Ruffles say, zips have their problems too. I think we may re-use many of the foam inners, except in the hardest wear areas. We currently have a full length seat on the starboard side, and full length backs on both sides, but are thinking of splitting these to make access to the cave and underberth lockers easier (which will also mean a split cushion for the trotter box under the chart table). If we hinge the backs your ball catch method sounds good - though hinged backs would also require shortened back sections with a small infill to avoid fouling the armrests on the forward faces of the galley and chart table half bulkheads.

Thanks again.

 

[nigelmercier]

Thanks, Nigel. Mrs H is reasonably nifty with sewing but a specialist course could be a very good idea - I will show her your thread and hope she doesn't get the needle!

Two of the people on the course had made dresses, curtains etc. They were still impressed.

 

[Hydrozoan]

Two of the people on the course had made dresses, curtains etc. They were still impressed.

I'm sure. My reference to 'needle' was the thought that she might suggest that I should take the course (and a desire to play on words, of course ). Which she did, semi-jocularly, although she agreed that my starting point in sewing is so low that it would probably be better if she built on her existing skills. So that's what I think we will do - or both take it, perhaps. Thanks again for drawing our attention to it.

 

[Sundowner 39]

Plus one for Hawke House, great course we both did it.........as part of the course they supply a kit of parts, Aluminum bars etc which are very useful.
It is very informal the whole day is spent in the work shop not unlike the West System epoxy day.

I Recommend it.

 

[Hydrozoan]

Place booked on course in January. My thanks to Nigel and Sundowner.

 

[Hydrozoan]

Just resuscitated this thread to say briefly that Mrs H found the Hawke House course very good indeed and thoroughly enjoyable, and came away with a useful goody bag as described. Thanks again from us both for the recommendation.

 

[oldhunter]

I think you will find that with a tight cover over the foam it will be very difficult to align the velcro neatly when you try to close the opening. I have seen upholstery with plastic zips (they were the same zips as used with stack packs etc) but are expensive compared to the coil zips

 

[PlankWalker]

I've just finished making two berth cushions using Velcro, it was so easy and forgiving, I would never use zips again.

Plank

 

[Hydrozoan]

If I understood Mrs H correctly, she said that the course recommended Velcro for cushion closure, but using one long strip along the length and closure strips at right angles to that long strip. (Somewhat analogous, I guess, to using Velcro or 3M Dual Lock in a # pattern on headlining panels, to avoid having to ensure an exact coincidence of the mating elements.) That I believe overcomes the alignment problem referred to by oldhunter, but seemingly not encountered by PlankWalker - even when using parallel strips, perhaps?

 

[PlankWalker]

I used 30mm wide Velcro along the longest side,this was sewn on first before sewing the rest of the cushion inside out of course.
It's very tenacious stuff and being 30mm wide you can overlap a little more or a little less to correct inaccuracies.

Plank

 

[Hydrozoan]

I used 30mm wide Velcro along the longest side,this was sewn on first before sewing the rest of the cushion inside out of course.
It's very tenacious stuff and being 30mm wide you can overlap a little more or a little less to correct inaccuracies.

Plank

Thanks. Yes, I can imagine that that would work, but the right angle method was recommended - and the main thing for us was to avoid zips if possible, on which different opinions had been given earlier.